raamaudio

If you run 3/4" to 1" wheel gap you will still have really good suspension geometry, any lower and things go bad really fast which severly upsets the handling of the car. I have done extensive measuring and testing of different ride heights and driven the car in autocrosses with vastly different results, to low, the car handles far worse.

3/4" is about as low as I would go with stock tire diameter

1" is working really well with slightly shorter tires, I have 235/40/17's.

Let us know what your gap is please

Rick

tcengel

My gap is 3-4 inches right now. I can lower it a bit, but it's still going to be about stock height.

raamaudio

I hope you mean actual wheel gap as I should of more appropriately said tire gap, lol! If you have that much tire gap then you are ready for some mud bogging

I just checked my car again, from the top of the wheel, not the tire, I measured 4" exactly to the upper edge of the fender opening. There is a bead back under the edge abit, I did not use that since less visual.

Please let us know where mesuring from and too more precisely

Thanks,
Rick

tcengel

I have that much tire gap!

I'll wait to hear from Megan before posting any more. Who knows, maybe I put the coilover back together incorrectly...

I think the issue is the height of the springs and I just need to add more pre-tension so I can lower the cylinder into the strut housing more.

raamaudio

Yikes!!!!!!

Can you take a pic of the coilovers, under the car is fine, I may be able to help with this a bit.

If so please post or email to me.

rick@raamaudio.com

Thanks,
Rick

Motorsport_TC

yes very interested in what it looks like

raamaudio

Pre tension would only raise the car more, that is how regular coilovers adjust ride height.

I recommend taking one off, loosening the lock rings and turn the shock down all the way into the lower housing.

Though not recommended(I would do it myself but not recommend others do so) you could remove the two lock rings, lower the spring perch down to the bottom housing and tightenit against it.

Then put it back together with the spring as low as possible on shock(damper) body and see how it looks when installed.

This is what I proposed to test for my car as they were going to send me a set of springs to test with but decided to only send one set out.

They list some 10KG 135mm springs and some 8KG150mm ones as well. I figured with their current lower sections and the 10KG 135mm springs I would of been around the perfect ride height with the lock rings removed.

The 8KG springs may be more comfortable but they were going to be a bit tall.

If you cannot get in touch with them please let me see if I can help you, I have been modding imports for nearly 40 years, I do have a few tricks up my sleave;)

Rick

TcLuis

please post some pics of how they look

tcengel

I can't post pictures now. Here's the story,

They sent me 6KG 150 springs and the slightly taller cylinders. The cylinder is all the way down into the base and the spring is all the way down. I still have a huge wheel gap.

What we need is the stock cylinders with the 8KG 135 springs. I just communicated this with Megan and I'll wait for an answer and let you guys know.

raamaudio

Yes, 6kg would be too soft and too long. I agree, 8kg and 135mm should work out fine. I was hoping to get as set sent of the 10kg 135mm to test but they decided to hold off until new parts were made instead. (I will probably need the stiffer springs for autocross and track days)

Rick

tcengel

Here's another update. I took off the new springs and used the originals with the longer cylinders. I think this is very close to what is needed. I am still having a problem lowering the car though. It's close to where I want it, but the cylinder is all the way into the base and the spring has been lowered to where there is only the tiniest bit of pre-tension. I still have plenty of room to lower the car by lowering the spring perch, but I am afraid that the springs will bounce around a bit at full extension of the suspension. What do you think?
I'll give it a try tomorrow and see if it's ok. I can tell you that the longer cylinder is necessary in order to stop the banging in the rear of the car so I wouldn't change those.

My guess is a 8KG 120 spring would be absolutely perfect. I'll make my recommendation to Steve who is the tech at Megan working on this.

Motorsport_TC

yeah steve is a great guy

raamaudio

I agree, Steve is a great guy, Megan is a great company as well, just have a few bugs to work out. These are beautiful made coilovers, I am sure I am going to love them once I get the rears sorted out

I wanted to try some 120mm 8KGs as well but I will still probably end up with 10kgs for track use.

Rick

Motorsport_TC

when are they sending it out? im waiting on my new set of rears also.

carlb28

does anyone else think its odd how the megan coils are 8kg front and 5kg rear spring rates.. while most other coilovers have the opposite.. like 7/10(tein) or 4.5/6.3 (progress) maybe this is why there is something wrong with the rear.. the fronts are stiffer then teins but the rears are barely stiffer then the stock... seems like it would make more sense the other way around. i was looking to get these so maybe someone could make sense of this for me

3min3m2

the car is fron weight biased...so logically speaking the front should be stiffer then the rear

correct?

carlb28

then wouldnt that make more oversteer on a FWD car that is bad. i just think its weird how all the other springs are stiffer rate in the rear except the megan coils ... i was wondering if anyone had a reason, like the struts are shorter or w/e it may be.

tcengel

Ok, last update because I'm rally sick of working on these. My hands are all tore up and my back is trashed.

What worked best for me is the new longer cylinders with the 62.120.005 initial springs. The car is now very driveable and it's comfortable. I have the rears with absolutely no spring pre-tension which seems to be the most comfortable setting. Only problem is, if you like to slam the car down in the rear, this is not going to work.

My recommendation now stands as...

new longer cylinders with 62.120.008 springs in the rear. The rear springs are just too soft and bouncy at 62.120.006.

MrChoyBoi

Im glad they sent out replacements for you. Now lets see if they're going to hook the rest of us up... hehe...

tcengel

I think they are still testing. If you have the longer cylinders, you have what I have anyways. They are probably going to send me new springs to try out. You may want to wait till they are done testing. I have pulled and re-installed the rears like nine times now and trust me, it's not fun. I'm trying to give them the best set-up before they start swapping out fro people.