Sounds like a pain in the butt. Im definately waiting for the final product. I dont want to be "testing" things out for them. Do you know if you are the only one testing for them?

 

my email from megan racing.....


Hi,
We are updating the rear suspensions, so info will be changed later.
Most
cars have softer on the back, only some have stiffer on back, because
the
engine is in front and front needs higher spring rates to support, but
some
cars like RSX, then they need higher on the back due to body set up.


Thanks

 

Steve is a great giy i'm sure he has a reason for the spring rate setups and will work everything out

 

The rears deffinately do need pretty stiff rear springs, no question about it

Rick

 

Wow, everyone is gettin a reply from megan while I am still in the dark. Did i miss something here?

 

They are going to re-design the rear cylinders. I'll let you know when they are ready.

 

im guessing it would be a bad idea to go pick up those megan coilovers for $850 right now?

 

Yep, better wait till they are done redesigning it. Unless you want banging noises when you drive around....

 

Well, you also gotta take into account suspension geometry. If stiffer springs are out back, there's usually a good reason.

I haven't read too many complaints about the "backwards" spring rates on the other coilovers.

 

I had this conversation with them. I think the big problem with the knocking is that the bouncy springs provide too much suspension travel.

 

Here is the last update from them:

If we use the 120mm springs then we bottom out too easily. Consider the bump
stop to remove 25mm and then the distance between the first thread and top of
the cylinder is 25mm so that's 50mm's taken from you. That leaves you with
only 70mm's to compress. That's not taking into consideration that the
spring itself takes up that entire space. Immediately once you place weight
on the car it's going to take up a good portion of that travel.

If you notice, there's a large portion of the damper cylinder still available
over the bottom spring perch. This is wasted space. We're going to make a
longer piston, slightly shorter cylinder and a 150mm spring. Hopefully this
will give us a good setup.

 

Since the springs and shocks(correctly called dampers) are mounted somewhat inboard due to the design of the rear suspension they require less compression to acheive full suspension travel. Less compression can be controlled by using a higher rate spring that still allows full travel at the outer ends of the suspension.

That is just one aspect to consider, another is having a heavy glass roof, stiffer springs will help control body roll.

And yet another, it is not always advantagous to use stiffer sway bars to control roll as they can induce unwanted side effects as well.

Has anybody checked the stock spring rates?

 

I should receive an alternate set of spring to test on Monday, they are 135mm 10kg and I am pretty sure they will do the job and since I am more into racing I can use the stiffness. I will let everyone know as soon as I get a chance to get them installed and tested.

It would be best to hold off until I at least know if the car will sit right and then how it functions before trying this yourselves, let me be the guinee pig

Rick

 

Update:
I have 2 sets of springs and some new re-designed strut's in the mail to test. I should have them in this weekend. The struts are shorter to allow you to lower the car more. The springs are:
8KG 120mm
6KG 130mm
I have a feeling everyone wants the 8KG springs so that is what I will test first. I already know the 6KG springs are comfortable because I have been riding on the 150mm 6KG's for a while now.

 

I'm interested in the 8k's or the 10k's

 

Thanks for the update!

I am fairly certain the 6kg springs are going to be much to soft and revalved dampers would most likely be required so you have the full range of adjustments. The 10K springs we now have likely required a stiffer shock to match them better.

8kg at 120mm sounds like it may be the ticket for most users needs, I hope they are long enough.

As for extra drop, just remember guys, slammed is not faster and deffinately not safe for you or the car, the geometry is so screwed up you give away a great deal of handling. I tried my car setting fairly low, 1/2" wheel gap and did not like the way it handled at all so I measured and plotted the geometry out in full scale and found it was really messed up. When I plotted just a 1/2" raise(1" wheel gap) it improved dramtically and the difference was good for nearly 2 seconds improvement on my relative autocross times, that is huge!

Rick

 

Actually, we have 5KG springs in the rear right now so 6KG is a stiffer spring. I have 6KG with 150mm in the rear now and the ride is very nice and comfortable, just like my H-techs were. Only problem is you could not lower the car enough. That is why they are sending me 6KG 130mm. I think this is the set-up most will want. It rides very smooth for a coilover.

I am sure I will be happy with the 8KG springs and as long as they don't bottom out, I will keep those.

10KG will definately be stiff for most, but then again most of your mods are that way.

 

any new updates?

 

Update:
I installed the two sets of springs and have told them that the 6KG 130mm is a great set-up. I am very happy with it, except for a few small things I recommended. We will have to wait and see what they decide.

This is the lowest you can go with the set-up which is fine with me. Would others be interested in going lower? Maybe.

 

The top of the tire is about even with the fender. I think it looks very good and the ride is fantastic.