mike6789k

does it move the pad closer to the rotor though? so it's like driving with your ebrake up when its really down

web

NO.

You're tightening the cable just a bit to remove any slack in it. Metal stretches with use so you can tighten it a bit. It's not going to pull the shoes against the inside of the rotor unless you over tighten it. Basically, leave about 6-7 clicks to full lock and you'll be fine.

mike6789k

so you can theoretically cause damage by over tightening... ill pass!

paul34

if the brakes are engaged, that would require pressure exerted from the brake fluid - this means that the BRAKE light should come on. This should also apply to engaging just a little bit, I believe... try it. Put your brake up just a little bit. The brake light will come on.

mike6789k

i dont know what you are saying... but the BRAKE light comes on when you pull up the ebrake because there is a little switch on the ebrake that is activated when the lever is pulled past a certain point, not because of the pressure on the brake fluid... infact, the ebrake has nothing to do with brake fluid... that's the point of an emergency brake, if your other brakes fail, you can still use the ebrake

paul34

no no, the brake light comes on when brake fluid drops below a certain point - which is what happens when you engage your handbrake, or your pads are worn beyond a certain level, or you have a major leak, etc etc

mike6789k

what?

handbrake is a separate system, has nothing to do with fluid of anykind...

and the light comes on because of an electrical switch...

web

If you have very basic car knowledge, no. If you're picking up tools for the first time, yes. It's not rocket science.

Sorry, not trying to sound like a dick. If you think you've overtightened it, you can loosen it as well. It's not a one way type thing. You can loosen and tighten the bottom nut to relieve slack or add slack to the cable. It's really not that hard and I'm sure everyone here with some knowledge can judge if it's too tight or just right. Just keep testing the handle. When you pull it up and you see that fully locked is now about 1/2 the distance it was stock, then you're fine. All you did was relieve the excess slack in the line under the center of the chassis.

web

No, as mike6789k said, your brake lights comes on due to a switch that is pulled. We do not have a brake fluid level sensor in our car. Your 4 calipers run off the hydrolic brake system which forces fluid into the lines compressing the calipers. The emergency brake system works stricktly mechanically. That is why it's considered an "emergency brake." If all pressure is lost in your normal brake system or your booster blows for some reason, what would a liquid fueled brake system do? Nothing.

Emergency brakes are just 2 "shoes" that sit inside the back end of rotors and have a spring in between them. The spring is connected to the brake cable which runs up to the e-brake handle. When the handle is engaged, the cable tigthens, putting tention on the spring in the back of the rotor and then engaging the shoes to push against the inside of the rotor. NO FLUID INVOLVED.


About the light, when your handle is up, look into the area where the ebrake is. You'll see a little black switch/button. Push it and watch your brake light on your dash. It goes out.

paul34

whoops, sorry guys

mike6789k

Ok, so if I tighten it down to 1/2 of what it is stock, everything should still be okay? there isnt added friction anywhere?

paul34

Does adjusting the shoes make the brake hold stronger? I've noticed the brake in our tCs are concerningly weak... on major inclines the car will actually struggle and roll back a few inches before finally stopping. It freaks me out.

I do leave it parked in gear all of the time, of course, but still... its very concerning.

mike6789k

paul, yes it will, seeing as how you can pull even tighter now

web

paul...The only way the brakes will hold stronger is if you engage the parking brake. This adjustment will have nothing to do with normal, everyday pedal braking. I hope that's what was meant. If not, then, yes....tightening the cable will allow you to tighten the brake shoes for the e-brake much easier and stronger. Just rememeber, the harder you pull on the tightened cable, the more you'll stretch it in the long run. Just pull it up until you feel it's nice and tight. Don't crank it back up to stock height after you tighten it.

mike.....there will not be any added friction if you just tighten it to about 1/2 the distance. When you are doing it, like i said, just keep testing it until you feel it's tight enough for you. If you hear it click 6-9 times fully locked, that's fine. Just don't make it fully locked at 2 clicks. Don't make the change too drastic or else you will slowly be compressing the spring in the rear to push the shoes closer to the rotor. Like I said, 4 clicks for me is a really good hold on a gradual hill. 6-8 clicks is fully locked. I think stock it was about 13-15 or something like that. When you loosen the top bolt, tighten the bottom bolt a bit and retighten the top bolt. The thread showing from the cable should be about 1-1.25 inches to be like mine.

mike6789k

omgggg web, this is so damn awesome, right now im like 8 clicks to lock (12 was stock for me) and omggg, ebrake turns like you wouldnt belive! hehehe

only problem is that when im moving in a straight line and a decent speed and i lift up the ebrake to slow down (no i dont do this normally) i hear a CLANK...

is that normal?

thanks for all your help man

krdshrk

You're gonna kill your brakes fast like that. If you're worried about brake pedal feel, get new brake pads and re-bleed your brake lines.

mike6789k

the ebrake doesnt even move the pads... there is a drum inside the rotor that the ebrake engages... this does nothing for brake pedal feel

web

Not sure why people think it's driven by fluid. Wouldn't be an "EMERGENCY BRAKE" if the fluid ran dry for some reason would it? Oh well.


No, that clank isn't supposed to happen. It didn't to mine at least. Yours seems less tight then mine too. Might want to loosen the bolts a bit and see if it does it.

web

Emergency brakes are not driven by fluid or by any hydrolic system at all. They are mechanical and driven by the handle, metal cables and springs located in the rear brakes. That's all.

4 wheel disc brakes have the e-brake shoes located inside the back side of the rotor.

Drum brakes use the same brakes/shoes that they use for normal braking as their e-brake. There is a metal arm that connects the shoes to a metal brake line running to the ebrake handle. When pulled, the line tightens, then the metal arm tightens and then the shoes are pushed against the drum housing.

I hope this helps everyone understand how the ebrake works for both brake setups.

web

Here's a visual to clarify:

Drums:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake3.htm

4 wheel disc:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake3.htm
Our disc brakes don't have the spring on the calipers like this picture, but have the brake cable running into the back of the rotor hub. This is where you will find the brake shoes for the e-brake.