devanb3

iTrader: (1)

i have looked through the other forums and havent found my answer so i figured id just ask

originally i order my HID 35w From HIDextra they werent very bright so i know im going 55w this time now my question is when i ordered my other set it asked for the make and model and when i was done it had found the kit not other questions asked now when i do it it wants to know if i want a cancellor or a relay now im not too savey on the whole HID thing but i dont know if i need these if anyone can explain what they are and if i need either that would be great

also just want to see if anyone has verified that the 2011 and 2012 bulb sizes are the same thanks

EDDIEA123

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I believe their both H11 bulbs. I think with the 55w ones you can sometimes blow a fuse...but not too sure

jaylouie

iTrader: (3)

you would want a relay harness to run the power directly from your battery to the HID kit, it is just so you don't burn out your oem headlight wires.

If you want to save money, Just order 55w ballast and a relay harness since you already have the bulbs from the 35w kit

devanb3

iTrader: (1)

really wish i could if you look at the post i did in the owners lounge on my magnet grey tc that was totaled youll understand why

Druidiron

I am probably not the best person to answer this, so take it with a grain of salt. As far as I understand, the relay harness simply allows the HID kit to get juice straight from the battery. This prevents a sudden surge of electricity that the Ballast needs to power the HID. That is how you get blown fuses. I have 35W so I did not get a harness, but if I would have gone 55W, I certainly would have.

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

Save this link everyone. Cheap ballasts with low startup amperage should be fine with the factory wiring, but forget about using OEM ballasts on factory wiring.

But a wiring harness is always recommended for safety and proper HID systems.

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProd...lacementGuide/

devanb3

iTrader: (1)

im not sure what this has to do with anything unless your trying to use it to show what headlights the 2012 tc takes which if you would have checked before posting you would have found it doesnt have them on there so pleas enlighten me on this

now that you have edited the original post it makes so much more since

devanb3

iTrader: (1)

thanks this is very helpful and actually explains why when i had the 35w why my radio would kick me into protect mode when i turned them on only question now is since it pulls it straight from the battery do i have to run another switch or does it just tap into the existing one??

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

sorry about the link, not sure why they didn't update it yet, but I've found it useful in the past for most car in general.

pyroman131

Just be careful running those 55W bulbs. They could potentially burn the housing or cause some melting.

Druidiron

There is no extra switch. The ballast just gets a constant supply of juice from your battery this way, almost like priming a lawn mower. Its the same as adding a little gas to to a carborator to get the engine to turn over. So, the power is always there, and there is not the HUGE draw all at once needed to get the ballast running.

My 35W DDM's dont mess with my radio at all. Maybe you should look at a different company? I realise DDM is not exactly a great name in the industry, but so many people on here have only good things to say about them. Also, mine are the 5k's, and they are (from what I can tell) 100% brighter than stock. With my stock bulbs, even the areas that the projector focused the light seemed dim to me, and anything outside the beam pattern may as well be painted black. With my 35W 5k's, its compairible to shining a super over powered LED flashlight into a tiny room. Not only is the beam pattern bright white and crystal clear, but I can now see things off to my left and right that are not in the pattern, like deer; The deer in my current state are BAD. Most states you are only allowed to kill 1 or 2 males per season. In AR, you MUST kill a female, before they will let you kill a male, because the population is so high, which is 10000% of the reason I had to upgrade the horrid stock headlights. My point is, if your last set of 35Ws where not bright enough for you, maybe try anouther brand. I read alot of google searches about people saying kits where X amount of watts, and X amount of Kelvins, but in reallity, they sold people whatever they had in stock at the time and through a "55W, 6k" sticker on it, even though it may have been a 35W 43K set. Especially EBay kits.

Lastly: what the post above mine says is true, from what I have read anyway. 55W bulbs burn much hotter than 35W. After reading this many times, and seeing several pictures of melted headlight housings I went with 35W. I origanally was dead set on 55W 6K, but too much bad info led me back to 35W.

Kyleptrsn1

Devon, I also have a 2012. The head lights and fogs are both H11s. As for the 55W, the factory bulbs run at 55w so there should be no problem running 55W HIDs. You won't burn up the harness. If it would make you feel better run a relay harness which if I understand correctly (correct me if I'm wrong guys) allows the head lights to draw power directly from the battery. I've had both head lights and fog lights in my car for a while now with no problems at all without a relay harness. Also I have one set from Ddm and the other from HIDextra and both work perfectly and are way brighter than the stock bulbs.

A lot of guys on here run 55W hits and some have had them for over a year with out saying anything about burning up the housing. So I think you'll be fine. Best of luck on your decision.

devanb3

iTrader: (1)

thanks im also looking at puting these in instead of stock style fogs wondering if anyone has tryed these
http://www.hidextra.com/LED%20Daytim...ts%20%28DRL%29

Kyleptrsn1

Ask Scion 202, he has something similar to those.
His build page is https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=203516

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

The stock bulbs are 55w. You aren't going to be running any hotter than stock. I have had my DDM 55w's in for a year now without a harness and without a single problem with firing or overheating.

EDIT: Sorry, I pretty much echoed exactly what Kyleptrsn1 said a couple posts ago. He's right.

jaylouie

iTrader: (3)

hid harnesses are debatable but i personally always run a harness. I had one of my 55w ballast go haywire and burn out. It also caused my bulb to burn out and melted my relay harness. I'm glad i had a harness in place because if i did not have a relay harness, I would have melted by stock wires.

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Or the relay harness contributed to the issue by allowing too much power to come directly from the battery. Lol that is just pure speculation though.