Okay so I’ve searched and searched but found only scattered and unspecific info…so I NEED all the wiring and electronic gurus out there!!

What I’m trying to do is hook up an underbody glow kit with a 3-way switch that will give the LED lights the option of working when the doors are opened/unlocked like the dome light, or on all the time, or off all the time.

The LED underbody kit I want to use is made up of 4 Blue Beefy LED strips (2-6’ and 2-38”) from oznium.com
-This kit should give me wheel-to-wheel coverage due to 6’ strips for the sides rather than 4’ strips like most kits
-I’m not concerned about having multiple colors, patterns, strobes…just a nice solid color

http://www.oznium.com/beefy-led-strip

I have a 3-way switch left over from another project and i would prefer to use it at all possible..RRS-SPDT: SPDT Round Rocker Switch

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fswitches.htm
I’ve read where the dome lights might not be able to handle the power and I may need a relay, but however it’s done I want the LEDs to be able to fade like the dome lights. I do have all LEDs in my domes.

I’m sure I can figure out how to mount the strips and run the wires to the appropriate place, but what I need is to know how to connect the strips together (solder, electrical tape, distribution/terminal blocks, etc.) and run them to the dome, switch, power source, ground and anything else that might be needed. That would include how to run wires through the headliner and down the A-Pillar into the dash if connecting to front dome light.

There might be a DIY on this somewhere but I couldn’t find it. Also, this is for a 2012 tC if there is a difference from 1st gen to 2nd gen. If there are no DIYs on it, I would be glad to use the info you gurus provide to make one (giving credit of course)…DIY could be altered for footwell lighting, puddle lighting, wheel-well lighting, or any type of lighting that results in dome-like effects with added manual on/off option.

Thanks!!!

 

I would be weary of powering the underglow with the dome light circuit. Like you said was already suggested, I would use a relay that would trip when the doors opened. To get your fading effect without using the dome lights, you would need PWM voltage. As far as actual wiring of the LEDs, I would solder, heatshrink and seal with rtv silicone.

 

I don't really know what PWM voltage is? And as far as the relay, what kind of relay would I have to use??

Thanks for the reply, btw

 

I was looking at relays...would this work or be completely wrong??

 

Ask scion202 he is the LED GOD!

 

I just pm'd him...thanks!!!

 

yup he's Notorious L.E.D.

grandmasta LED

Sir-LED-A-Lot

Vanilla LED

L.E.Diddy

De LED Soul

LLED Cool J

 

Revised switch layout...this one looks like it would work better

Note: add a in-line fuse from battery to relay

 

Based on your schematic, and the lack of sense it is making, I would really suggest looking into a simple on/off setup or an actual kit you can program. It seems like you don't know enough to be tinkering around with the electrical systems in the car. Sorry if this is rude, I just don't see this turning out too well.

And PWM is Pulse width modulation. LEDs, unlike halgens do not operate on the lower voltage level -- dimmer light effect. LEDs are designed to be either all the way on or all the way off, with a small range of brightness once they are on. To observe a fading effect of to adjust the brightness percieved to our eyes, PWM is used. Whats actually happening is theres a square wave of voltage, instead of a constant DC voltage, passed to the LED where the pulses are modulated, set to a specific duration. Both the low's, the high's and the frequencies can be set depending on the disired output. The percentage of low-to-high, among other things, in the waveform determines what you see and how bright it appears.

If what I said didn't make any sense, try here, maybe that will help:
http://www.waitingforfriday.com/inde...ness_using_PWM

 

I'll admit that I don't really know I'm doing but that's the point of thread...to try and formulate a way of making this work. I'm taking what you said as good criticism. I got a quote of $150 from a local shop to wire it the way I want, but I know I can research it and ask questions and do it myself. I'm not hooking anything up to the car until I'm 100% confident in it. I know I can buy a programmable kit or just a regular kit, but I want something different...anybody can put on a regular kit but who actually takes the time to not go the easy way out. If you want something a certain way, do it yourself.

 

you could wire a seperate 3 way switch

instead wiring the power in at the middle prong you can put the output at the center prong and wire a constant in one of the outputs and tap into the doors switch open close switch and run that to the last prong

 

That does sound easier than messing with a relay. Where is the doors switch open close switch? And would it be better to run the constant power from the battery or the fusebox??

 

sorry it took so long to get back but

either way on the constant power if you run from the fuze box tho you dont have to run a fuze in the power

the door open close switch is located if looking at drivers/passengers side hmmm you may only be able to run it so on door opens it come on or you would have to run from the dome switch... but anyways if your looking at the door its on the side that the latch is on its the little black push button momentary switch about half way down

if you run from the dome light you can run it from the power going into the switch so you dont have to have the switch on in order to have the function on your switch work

 

A late reply is better than no reply lol

I'll look into the door switch this weekend when I have some time off..

I also say on a 1st gen thread where a guy hooked all his negatives to a switch. He ran a constant 12V to the power of the LEDs and ran the ground to the middle prong of the switch. From one of the side prong, he ran a ground to a bolt in the floor. From the other side prong, he ran a ground and spiced into the ground from the dome. He used the grounds to complete each circuit.

That would a very simple setup..do you think that setup would work??