Check Engine Light?? no Hope yet.
#1
Check Engine Light?? no Hope yet.
Hey there everybody i am new here to the Scion community!
Well, Here is my first problem.
I installed the TRD Drop-in air filter and after i drove it about 5 miles the check engine turned on.
The code was p0172-Running rich Bank 1.
now i also tested the MAF sensor to see if it was working properly by turning car on and disconnecting it and yes the car starts to stutter.
next i connected a obd scanner i have and looked at some info.
now i tested with air filter on and with air filter off (TRD)
and these were my readings.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
its the same readings! so i highly doubts its not air related and i am lost.
i really dont wana take it to the dealership.
any ideas??
Well, Here is my first problem.
I installed the TRD Drop-in air filter and after i drove it about 5 miles the check engine turned on.
The code was p0172-Running rich Bank 1.
now i also tested the MAF sensor to see if it was working properly by turning car on and disconnecting it and yes the car starts to stutter.
next i connected a obd scanner i have and looked at some info.
now i tested with air filter on and with air filter off (TRD)
and these were my readings.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
its the same readings! so i highly doubts its not air related and i am lost.
i really dont wana take it to the dealership.
any ideas??
#2
Hey there everybody i am new here to the Scion community!
Well, Here is my first problem.
I installed the TRD Drop-in air filter and after i drove it about 5 miles the check engine turned on.
The code was p0172-Running rich Bank 1.
now i also tested the MAF sensor to see if it was working properly by turning car on and disconnecting it and yes the car starts to stutter.
next i connected a obd scanner i have and looked at some info.
now i tested with air filter on and with air filter off (TRD)
and these were my readings.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
its the same readings! so i highly doubts its not air related and i am lost.
i really dont wana take it to the dealership.
any ideas??
Well, Here is my first problem.
I installed the TRD Drop-in air filter and after i drove it about 5 miles the check engine turned on.
The code was p0172-Running rich Bank 1.
now i also tested the MAF sensor to see if it was working properly by turning car on and disconnecting it and yes the car starts to stutter.
next i connected a obd scanner i have and looked at some info.
now i tested with air filter on and with air filter off (TRD)
and these were my readings.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
its the same readings! so i highly doubts its not air related and i am lost.
i really dont wana take it to the dealership.
any ideas??
#4
this. but don't tell them you did all that stuff. play dumb and say all u did was install the trd air filter and this started happening so you took it in right away
#7
Yes, always disconnect the battery when doing something of the sorts and let the ECU reset and relearn. I work at a Toyota dealer and see this all the time. Your initial findings..
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
..are the same because that's what the computer had learned with the factory filter on but in reality was getting much more air with the TRD filter and was trying to correct itself. After reseting the ECU it relearned with the new filter and adjusted for it. Glad you figured it out and thought I would throw this out there for future reference and a more in-depth reason as to why its important to reset the ECU.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
..are the same because that's what the computer had learned with the factory filter on but in reality was getting much more air with the TRD filter and was trying to correct itself. After reseting the ECU it relearned with the new filter and adjusted for it. Glad you figured it out and thought I would throw this out there for future reference and a more in-depth reason as to why its important to reset the ECU.
#8
Same thing happened to me yesterday. Install my TRD intake, started up and died. Tried again and all is well. Noticed it does idle lower though, now around 500-600 instead of 600-750.
#9
AF Ratio..
Yes, always disconnect the battery when doing something of the sorts and let the ECU reset and relearn. I work at a Toyota dealer and see this all the time. Your initial findings..
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
..are the same because that's what the computer had learned with the factory filter on but in reality was getting much more air with the TRD filter and was trying to correct itself. After reseting the ECU it relearned with the new filter and adjusted for it. Glad you figured it out and thought I would throw this out there for future reference and a more in-depth reason as to why its important to reset the ECU.
TRD Filter installed: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
NO Filter INstalled: @3k RPMS/MAF= 16.0 lbs/min.
..are the same because that's what the computer had learned with the factory filter on but in reality was getting much more air with the TRD filter and was trying to correct itself. After reseting the ECU it relearned with the new filter and adjusted for it. Glad you figured it out and thought I would throw this out there for future reference and a more in-depth reason as to why its important to reset the ECU.
I have installed CAI and UNICHIP, and each time I change my maps for testing I pull the ECU-B fuse and let sit for 15min. Then I put it back in and crank it over and let idle for 15min. Then drive it to work where in the last 1000ft. it decides to sputter and pop CEL. SMFH....
Last edited by CelestialxOne; 08-01-2013 at 08:30 PM. Reason: forgot to mention
#10
I always just undo the negative battery terminal before any work that has to do with the engine. Leave it undone for 15 minutes. Then hook it back up. Don't connect the negative and positive together and you will be fine. Once you turn it on, drive where you need to go. I don't let it idle for more than a minute. FYI it will usually spitter the very first time and die, the second time its starts right up
#11
You work at a Toyota dealership doing what? So what is the proper procedure to relearn AF settings? Install CAI, disconnect neg batt., let idle for 15min., then drive for 15min.? Please correct me if im wrong, im still being plagued by CEL'S. Do I let idle for 5min and drive for 10. lol Whats the proper steps. Cuz I keep on poppin em.
I have installed CAI and UNICHIP, and each time I change my maps for testing I pull the ECU-B fuse and let sit for 15min. Then I put it back in and crank it over and let idle for 15min. Then drive it to work where in the last 1000ft. it decides to sputter and pop CEL. SMFH....
I have installed CAI and UNICHIP, and each time I change my maps for testing I pull the ECU-B fuse and let sit for 15min. Then I put it back in and crank it over and let idle for 15min. Then drive it to work where in the last 1000ft. it decides to sputter and pop CEL. SMFH....
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