SlaptheTc

So my 2011 tC is having a No Crank, No Start. Went to start my car the other day and it started no issues. Go on my lunch break and it wouldn’t start, my Negative bat terminal was loose so tightened that and she started right up. Later on when I went to leave it wouldn’t start again, tried the terminal and no luck. Was able to get a jump and she started right up. Later on in the day I went to leave and same thing, no power. Got a jump, didn’t work. Replaced battery and starter and still no luck. While they key is in accessory I have dash lights and power to my radio but when I go to start everything shuts down and when I go to start it does the same thing. I also recently found out my car was installed with an aftermarket remote start so starting to get concerned maybe that has something to do with it, or an immobilized/anti-theft system of some sort.


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DannoXYZ

Could be fuse, fusible link, ignition-switch, starter-relay or cable. Basically something between battery and starter is at fault.

Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage?
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter since we'll use it to find where battery voltage stops along way to starter.

Or you can just replace all those parts in between battery and starter.

SlaptheTc

I do have a multi-meter and know how to use it. I’ve checked all fuses under the hood and under the driver side dash and they were all good. My dad was thinking it was a starter relay but I couldn’t seem
to find its location anywhere online and I don’t believe I saw it when I was checking the fuses? So help with that would be greatly appreciated. Will have to start doing some testing, I appreciate the input.

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DannoXYZ

Ok, let's start at beginning:

1. everything off, battery +positive terminal, volts = ???
2. when key turned to START, battery +positive terminal volts = ???
3. after 10-sec, everything off, battery +positive terminal, volts = ???

4. back probe both terminals of AM3 30-amp fuse, volts = ???
5. probe start of red-wire leaving fuse-box, volts = ???

6. probe end of red-wire going into ignition-switch terminal #7, volts = ???
7. key to START, probe black wire leaving ignition-switch, terminal #8, volts = ???
8. trace black wire leaving ignition switch to where it meets light-blue wire

9. trace light-blue wire to where it goes into starter-relay
10. key to START, back-probe light-bue wire where it goes into starter-relay, volts = ???
11. key to START, back-probe red wire where it leaves starter-relay, volts = ???
12. trqce red wire out of starter-relay to where it connects to starter-solenoid

12. key to START, probe other end of red wire where it goes into starter-solenoid, volts = ???
13. probe BIG black/red wire going into starter, volts = ???


Then we compare these numbers you measured to what they should be from manual. Where numbers differs from standard, we know problem is between there and previous junction.

MR_LUV

2011 Scion tC Relay Location and Price

Your Starter Relay is Located Behind the Dash as Shown in the Diagram.

MR LUV

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DannoXYZ

This sounds way worse than bad relay. Those will just click and nothing happens. For power to shut off sounds like shorted wiring of some sort. Your voltage-measurements will help track down where this short is for closer look.

This can also be culprit. By nature, they passively completely disconnect starter from battery. In order for car to start, these systems must be fully-functional to restore connection to starter. Track down this remote-start/immobiliser/anti-theft system and remove it completely to restore wiring back to 100% stock.