Sub/Amp Install Pics Thread
#41
Thanks man! They hit nice and hard and accurately too...not sloppy like the larger and vented enclosures tend to get.
My car's electrical system seems to handle the amp just fine too. No noticeable dimming of the interior lights during play.
I'm also pleased with how closely the carpet of the box matches the car's interior. You can only see a slight glimmer of silver from the sub's edges when peering in through the tints.
My car's electrical system seems to handle the amp just fine too. No noticeable dimming of the interior lights during play.
I'm also pleased with how closely the carpet of the box matches the car's interior. You can only see a slight glimmer of silver from the sub's edges when peering in through the tints.
#45
Is anyone else having problems with lights flickering when hard bass hits? My headlights flicker when I turn the bass up on my subwoofer and my speedometer will dance both at a stop and at a constant speed. Has anyone had this problem and added a capaciter to see what the results are?
#46
No problem here. My 500/1v2 is putting out at least as much power as your Alpine and I've got nothing. Make sure your gain and boost are set properly though. I tuned my amp with a voltmeter and a 50hz test tone to dial in the proper amount of gain and I'm fine.
No cap needed for just 500w, and honestly I think they are gimmicky. I had a 2 farad Tsunami cap in a previous system pushing a JL 12W7 and still experienced some dimming. They just look pretty with flashing lights.
I'm running 55w HIDs too and not a single problem.
No cap needed for just 500w, and honestly I think they are gimmicky. I had a 2 farad Tsunami cap in a previous system pushing a JL 12W7 and still experienced some dimming. They just look pretty with flashing lights.
I'm running 55w HIDs too and not a single problem.
#47
Thanks
#48
Well a lot of the settings are going to be your personal preference.
- "Q"
- Center frequency
- Low Pass Filter
Pretty much the only two things that are going to be almost entirely objective will be the input sensitivity (gain) and bass boost.
The boost part is easy...you should minimize the amount of boost you are dialing in because you don't really need much. My amp, for example, has 15db of boost available...I'm using 3.
The input sensitivity part is what is set using a multimeter (available cheap @ Radio Shack)
- Obtain a 50hz sine-wave test tone recorded at 0db reference...available here:
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
- DISCONNECT THE SUB
- Turn off all processing in the head unit (loudness, equlization, mx, etc) and set everything to flat.
- Turn the amp's input sensitivity all the way down.
- Put on the test track and put it on repeat so it will keep playing until you are done.
- Set the volume to 75% of the maximum available volume (it's 47 on the Alpine)...it will sound awful through the factory speakers, so bear with it.
- Set the multimeter to read AC voltage (NOT DC) and touch the amps + and - speaker outputs with it.
- While the meter is connected, adjust the input sensitivity up until the target voltage is reached. For my 500w amp running @ 2 ohms, my target was 31.6v
- You're done! Turn off the noise, reconnect your sub, and reset all your settings on the head unit the way you like them!
What's your amp wattage and resistance load? I can tell you your target voltage if you aren't running a 500w 2 ohm setup like I am.
- "Q"
- Center frequency
- Low Pass Filter
Pretty much the only two things that are going to be almost entirely objective will be the input sensitivity (gain) and bass boost.
The boost part is easy...you should minimize the amount of boost you are dialing in because you don't really need much. My amp, for example, has 15db of boost available...I'm using 3.
The input sensitivity part is what is set using a multimeter (available cheap @ Radio Shack)
- Obtain a 50hz sine-wave test tone recorded at 0db reference...available here:
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
- DISCONNECT THE SUB
- Turn off all processing in the head unit (loudness, equlization, mx, etc) and set everything to flat.
- Turn the amp's input sensitivity all the way down.
- Put on the test track and put it on repeat so it will keep playing until you are done.
- Set the volume to 75% of the maximum available volume (it's 47 on the Alpine)...it will sound awful through the factory speakers, so bear with it.
- Set the multimeter to read AC voltage (NOT DC) and touch the amps + and - speaker outputs with it.
- While the meter is connected, adjust the input sensitivity up until the target voltage is reached. For my 500w amp running @ 2 ohms, my target was 31.6v
- You're done! Turn off the noise, reconnect your sub, and reset all your settings on the head unit the way you like them!
What's your amp wattage and resistance load? I can tell you your target voltage if you aren't running a 500w 2 ohm setup like I am.
#50
Definitely not necessary with these cars. I can crank the hell of mine and i have to really concentrate on the dash to notice the ever so slight dimming that occurs. My HIDs are unaffected. My speedo and tach are also unaffected.
#53
Finally I have mine hooked up and running!!
Very happy I went with a sealed enclosure this time as opposed to a vented. A bit cleaner and more refined. Still get's a bit loose sometimes though, but I guess that's what you get with a 12-incher. (is that what she said?...eh, you be the judge)
Very happy I went with a sealed enclosure this time as opposed to a vented. A bit cleaner and more refined. Still get's a bit loose sometimes though, but I guess that's what you get with a 12-incher. (is that what she said?...eh, you be the judge)
#54
It's built to JL's exact specifications for a sealed enclosure so it's all good. It's never boomy. Only lose occasionally. That wasn't a gripe by any means since I listen to a lot of hip hop....just more of a surprise that sealed enclosures can still reproduce a decent 808.