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Old 02-18-2011 | 09:59 PM
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Thanks man! They hit nice and hard and accurately too...not sloppy like the larger and vented enclosures tend to get.

My car's electrical system seems to handle the amp just fine too. No noticeable dimming of the interior lights during play.

I'm also pleased with how closely the carpet of the box matches the car's interior. You can only see a slight glimmer of silver from the sub's edges when peering in through the tints.
Old 02-18-2011 | 10:05 PM
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yea it def looks good was it hard running the power and making it look clean like getting the trim and stuff to snap back down in place?? and does the sunroof rattle bad i know prob some
Old 02-19-2011 | 02:45 AM
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Everything snapped back together perfectly fine! And yes I get rattling. It's much worse when all windows are closed. It's not bad at all when they open
Old 02-19-2011 | 04:32 PM
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o ok well i was jw bc i will b putting a system in mine wish my 18 would fit lol but it would slow me down :D

i am just wanting to do something clean kinda like what u got
Old 02-19-2011 | 05:33 PM
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Is anyone else having problems with lights flickering when hard bass hits? My headlights flicker when I turn the bass up on my subwoofer and my speedometer will dance both at a stop and at a constant speed. Has anyone had this problem and added a capaciter to see what the results are?
Old 02-19-2011 | 06:05 PM
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No problem here. My 500/1v2 is putting out at least as much power as your Alpine and I've got nothing. Make sure your gain and boost are set properly though. I tuned my amp with a voltmeter and a 50hz test tone to dial in the proper amount of gain and I'm fine.

No cap needed for just 500w, and honestly I think they are gimmicky. I had a 2 farad Tsunami cap in a previous system pushing a JL 12W7 and still experienced some dimming. They just look pretty with flashing lights.

I'm running 55w HIDs too and not a single problem.
Old 02-19-2011 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by biglilsteve
Make sure your gain and boost are set properly though. I tuned my amp with a voltmeter and a 50hz test tone to dial in the proper amount of gain and I'm fine.
Could you explain how to set the gain and amp settings? I already set mine up, but just by ear. I didnt know there was a method to setting it! Now I'm thinking I could have mine wrongly adjusted

Thanks
Old 02-19-2011 | 06:43 PM
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Well a lot of the settings are going to be your personal preference.
- "Q"
- Center frequency
- Low Pass Filter

Pretty much the only two things that are going to be almost entirely objective will be the input sensitivity (gain) and bass boost.

The boost part is easy...you should minimize the amount of boost you are dialing in because you don't really need much. My amp, for example, has 15db of boost available...I'm using 3.

The input sensitivity part is what is set using a multimeter (available cheap @ Radio Shack)
- Obtain a 50hz sine-wave test tone recorded at 0db reference...available here:
http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm

- DISCONNECT THE SUB

- Turn off all processing in the head unit (loudness, equlization, mx, etc) and set everything to flat.

- Turn the amp's input sensitivity all the way down.

- Put on the test track and put it on repeat so it will keep playing until you are done.

- Set the volume to 75% of the maximum available volume (it's 47 on the Alpine)...it will sound awful through the factory speakers, so bear with it.

- Set the multimeter to read AC voltage (NOT DC) and touch the amps + and - speaker outputs with it.

- While the meter is connected, adjust the input sensitivity up until the target voltage is reached. For my 500w amp running @ 2 ohms, my target was 31.6v

- You're done! Turn off the noise, reconnect your sub, and reset all your settings on the head unit the way you like them!


What's your amp wattage and resistance load? I can tell you your target voltage if you aren't running a 500w 2 ohm setup like I am.
Old 02-19-2011 | 11:54 PM
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i know when i had my fi btl 18 in my jeep i had to get a bigger alternator to get the dimming to stop
Old 02-20-2011 | 01:23 AM
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Definitely not necessary with these cars. I can crank the hell of mine and i have to really concentrate on the dash to notice the ever so slight dimming that occurs. My HIDs are unaffected. My speedo and tach are also unaffected.
Old 02-20-2011 | 01:28 AM
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It's a 750w RMS, 2 ohm
Old 02-20-2011 | 02:43 AM
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38.7v for you my man.
Old 02-25-2011 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by biglilsteve
Finally I have mine hooked up and running!!

Very happy I went with a sealed enclosure this time as opposed to a vented. A bit cleaner and more refined. Still get's a bit loose sometimes though, but I guess that's what you get with a 12-incher. (is that what she said?...eh, you be the judge)

Sub size does not determine frequency response, box size does. If it's getting boomy and "loose" as you say, your box is too big.
Old 02-26-2011 | 12:16 AM
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It's built to JL's exact specifications for a sealed enclosure so it's all good. It's never boomy. Only lose occasionally. That wasn't a gripe by any means since I listen to a lot of hip hop....just more of a surprise that sealed enclosures can still reproduce a decent 808.
Old 02-26-2011 | 10:45 PM
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Default sub install

ok so this is how mine came out..

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Old 02-28-2011 | 09:56 PM
  #56  
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def feeling that head unit looks sic!!
Old 03-03-2011 | 02:12 AM
  #57  
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thanks ^^^
Old 03-04-2011 | 02:47 AM
  #58  
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no prob man i cant wait to get me a nice head unit i have been lookin
Old 03-27-2011 | 09:43 PM
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What did people do with their power wire...? Through the firewall, under car and where exactly... Mb some pics to help. I just can't find a "good" spot
Old 04-04-2011 | 06:08 PM
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I am having trouble getting a good ground connection. Cany anyone who has set thier amp and sub up tell me a good location. I keep losing power bc of it I think.



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