Subwoofer truck rattle(need help)
#2
a good sound dampener will help out a lot, i recommend Audio Technix sound deadening, link can be found here:
http://www.audiotechnix.com/
can not beat it for the price, i have the 80mil product, but 60 will be just fine, only difference is the butyl thickness
here's some pics of mine, i've got about 10 sq ft in each door, and 40 sq ft in the cargo area/hatch:
doesnt quite look like much in the door, you dont need 100% coverage to yield good results, however i focused a good amount on the actual door panel rather than the outter door skin
no pics of the actual hatch, but thats done got about 8sq ft or so in it
http://www.audiotechnix.com/
can not beat it for the price, i have the 80mil product, but 60 will be just fine, only difference is the butyl thickness
here's some pics of mine, i've got about 10 sq ft in each door, and 40 sq ft in the cargo area/hatch:
doesnt quite look like much in the door, you dont need 100% coverage to yield good results, however i focused a good amount on the actual door panel rather than the outter door skin
no pics of the actual hatch, but thats done got about 8sq ft or so in it
#5
Its more than just the plate. Its also the plastic panels vibrating against the sheet metal. The best solution is to use foam or one of the various sound dampening materials out there to fit behind each panel that vibrates just as you would the license plate.
Also the hatch itself vibrates at the lock. The next time you play your subwoofer up loud, push down on the hatch and you will notice alot of the vibration go away.
The sound dampening material is good for people that drive with their windows up. However if you are like me and you drive with your windows down all the time, then the sound dampening becomes moot.
Also the hatch itself vibrates at the lock. The next time you play your subwoofer up loud, push down on the hatch and you will notice alot of the vibration go away.
The sound dampening material is good for people that drive with their windows up. However if you are like me and you drive with your windows down all the time, then the sound dampening becomes moot.
#6
Its more than just the plate. Its also the plastic panels vibrating against the sheet metal. The best solution is to use foam or one of the various sound dampening materials out there to fit behind each panel that vibrates just as you would the license plate.
Also the hatch itself vibrates at the lock. The next time you play your subwoofer up loud, push down on the hatch and you will notice alot of the vibration go away.
The sound dampening material is good for people that drive with their windows up. However if you are like me and you drive with your windows down all the time, then the sound dampening becomes moot.
Also the hatch itself vibrates at the lock. The next time you play your subwoofer up loud, push down on the hatch and you will notice alot of the vibration go away.
The sound dampening material is good for people that drive with their windows up. However if you are like me and you drive with your windows down all the time, then the sound dampening becomes moot.
#7
sound deadener is just as effective on any vehicle when windows are down just as when they are up, windows down won't rattle less than windows up. Especially on lower notes as they generate greater output when windows are down anyways, so in that case more output will lead to more rattles. There is no way to cancel out 100% of rattles but the best way is as I said before a good quality sound deadener, and if you want to go a step higher use an expanding foam such as great stuff between sheet metal panels, you can also use a closed cell foam padding between the body sheet metal and your interior panels
It will yield good results, will end a good amount of rattles but as stated there's no way to 100% end all rattles
It will yield good results, will end a good amount of rattles but as stated there's no way to 100% end all rattles
#8
sound deadener is just as effective on any vehicle when windows are down just as when they are up, windows down won't rattle less than windows up. Especially on lower notes as they generate greater output when windows are down anyways, so in that case more output will lead to more rattles. There is no way to cancel out 100% of rattles but the best way is as I said before a good quality sound deadener, and if you want to go a step higher use an expanding foam such as great stuff between sheet metal panels, you can also use a closed cell foam padding between the body sheet metal and your interior panels
It will yield good results, will end a good amount of rattles but as stated there's no way to 100% end all rattles
It will yield good results, will end a good amount of rattles but as stated there's no way to 100% end all rattles
The same exact principle applies to home theater and hearing aide testing sound proof rooms. The moment you open the door, you will hear all the outside noise. Why does this happen? Because there's nothing 'blocking' the vibrations from entering in. Hence the reason why we construct these rooms with materials that form a vacuum'like seal since sound can not travel through a vacuum.
Furthermore, you don't even need sound dampening material to even hear the difference from how loud it is when your windows are down and when they are up. If you honestly can't tell the difference from the loud gushing sound of wind as it enters the cabin to when you block its point of entry by having the windows up, then I don't know what to say.
It's the same reasoning of how pointless it is putting sound dampening on a convertible.
#9
I found that it is not the license plate, actually my rattle doesnt even come from the spare tire area.
I learned that it rattles the most from where the rear emblem, 3rd Brake Light, and Hatch Release are. I am going to open that up and take a look around and stuff it with something. When I firmly hold that hatch area it does not rattle as much. I just dont think its mounted to the car that well by error of design.
I learned that it rattles the most from where the rear emblem, 3rd Brake Light, and Hatch Release are. I am going to open that up and take a look around and stuff it with something. When I firmly hold that hatch area it does not rattle as much. I just dont think its mounted to the car that well by error of design.
#10
I found that it is not the license plate, actually my rattle doesnt even come from the spare tire area.
I learned that it rattles the most from where the rear emblem, 3rd Brake Light, and Hatch Release are. I am going to open that up and take a look around and stuff it with something. When I firmly hold that hatch area it does not rattle as much. I just dont think its mounted to the car that well by error of design.
I learned that it rattles the most from where the rear emblem, 3rd Brake Light, and Hatch Release are. I am going to open that up and take a look around and stuff it with something. When I firmly hold that hatch area it does not rattle as much. I just dont think its mounted to the car that well by error of design.
#11
a good sound dampener will help out a lot, i recommend Audio Technix sound deadening, link can be found here:
http://www.audiotechnix.com/
can not beat it for the price, i have the 80mil product, but 60 will be just fine, only difference is the butyl thickness
here's some pics of mine, i've got about 10 sq ft in each door, and 40 sq ft in the cargo area/hatch:
doesnt quite look like much in the door, you dont need 100% coverage to yield good results, however i focused a good amount on the actual door panel rather than the outter door skin
no pics of the actual hatch, but thats done got about 8sq ft or so in it
http://www.audiotechnix.com/
can not beat it for the price, i have the 80mil product, but 60 will be just fine, only difference is the butyl thickness
here's some pics of mine, i've got about 10 sq ft in each door, and 40 sq ft in the cargo area/hatch:
doesnt quite look like much in the door, you dont need 100% coverage to yield good results, however i focused a good amount on the actual door panel rather than the outter door skin
no pics of the actual hatch, but thats done got about 8sq ft or so in it
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