biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

It's even sexier with our bikes on it.

Blackedout011TC

iTrader: (2)

Hey Steve, All I ever hear from the auto-X crowd is to use Hawk brake pads. Just a thought as well, why not use the factory Scion pads with the new rotors? BTW it's about time you washed her!

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Hey man! Yeah, I have heard very good things about Hawk as well. I just thought EBC was supposed to be the best (especially since they are the most expensive!). I'll be putting Hawks on it next time for sure.

I am actually in the middle of replacing the rear pads right now. I say "in the middle" because I took my OE stock pads off and put on the new pads (bought PosiQuiet ceramic for the rears), but could not get the piston to go back in. Turns out that they don't just push right back in like the fronts...you need a special piece to "turn" them back into the caliper. I couldn't drive my car though because I already ditched the OE pads, so I needed to wait for my girl to get back home so I could take her car and buy the tool. It was dark, so I'll wrap it up tomorrow...hopefully the tool works without any issues!

I'll see how the PosiQuiet ceramics work and may use them on the fronts next time if all goes well. I just want a really low-dust pad...not too crazy about performance. The Red Stuff was supposed to be the real deal and I found myself underwhelmed at their performance with brand new rotors.

KidJustin

make sure u also do the bed in process! its not just install it and forget it.

i forgot the exact numbers but its like...drive 40mph brake to 20, repeat like 8 times. then drive 60mph brake to 20, repeat like 2 times. drive back home and let it sit for at least 15 mins

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

PosiQuiet insists there is no bed-in needed. I bedded in the EBCs on the front (look what good that did me) because they insisted that you need to.

Why you ain't tell me I needed to turn in the rears????

MadFunnyBruh

not sure but mb this might help

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...currentpage=85

jgj925

yo steve, did you end up buying those tires from ebay? if so were they legit?

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I definitely did. I bought 3 of those takeoffs from the seller for $135 a piece with free shipping. They were all in perfect condition. They obviously had never been driven on since they still had the tiny little rubber "spikes" on the tread. There was also no damage at all to the part of the tire that comes in contact with the wheel. They were new tires. It was a hell of a deal compared to $350 the dealer wanted to charge for them.

jgj925

ok good to hear. so eibach sportline + toyos feels great or would u prefer another tire. because i plan on stretching the toyos on a 18x8.75 wheel which isnt much of a stretch and probably get sportlines at the same time

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Sportlines matched with the stock Toyos is just fine. Obviously, you could go with better tires but it all depends on what you want to pay. My car is a commuter. I never track it. I just use it to move myself, my girl, my bikes, and other stuff around. Make a little noise somewhere in between. That's it. I'm just totally over trying to make this thing sporty.

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Ordered the following items from TRS. Big ups to DigitalPro hooking me up with Matt from TheRetrofitSource...both have been a HUUUUUUGE help

- Lexus RX350 projectors with clear lens-upgrade and in-house tuning
- Morimoto 3Five D2S HID ballasts
- Morimoto XB35 5000k HID bulbs
- Morimoto XB LED angel eyes 90mm amber color

Looking to get these goodies installed this upcoming Sunday. You can rest assured I'll have pics of this little project, including before/after shots of the cutoff/beam pattern.

KILLER

You beat me to it but we are on the same boat. I am planning on upgrading to those RX350 projectors

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

Thanks man, glad to help!!

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

I'm psyched guys! I reaaaalllllyyy hope this goes relatively smoothly. I need to bang the project out in one day since that's all the time my retrofit buddies will be able to give me.

I really want to do the high-beam blinker mod as well but I don't know if we'll have time for that...might need to save that for another weekend.

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Side note:
I'm having trouble updating the title to my build thread so it reflects in the thread title in the owner's lounge. The new title shows on the individual 1st post, but the thread title hasn't changed :-/

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

Make sure you having everything needed for this retrofit before you start, you can do it!!

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

Will, any suggestions on things I'll need??

So far, I can just think of:
- Basic tools (socket wrench set, screw drivers)
- Butyl glue

What else may I need??

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

You never know what you can run into with a retrofit being this is the first time!! Be prepared to solve any issues quickly and cleanly since your doing this in one day.

Canned Air
Dremel
Camera
Gloves
Goo Gone
Microfiber Clothes
Ruler
Black Sharpie Marker
Assortment of screws
JB Steel Stick, if you can't use screws
Drop Clothes

Most important is a surface to project and mark the existing cutoff average, then retrofit driver side projector and make sure its perfect!! Driver side will be the reference to the passenger side alignment, this is very important to get right as the final output id critical.

biglilsteve

iTrader: (2)

I'll get this list over to my buddy who has waaaay more tools than I do.

Ok so what you mean by cutoff average is how high on average the cutoff is from the ground?

I was planning on using Matt's technique where I aim the headlights just below the rear view mirror of a car at 25 ft...

DigitalPro

iTrader: (17)

Your current projector cutoff wont be as sharp as the new projectors, so you will have to do your best to align the driver side first and then match that to the passenger side. Right now the height wont matter since you CAN adjust that after the headlights are sealed, what really matter is that they are horizontally accuracy.