This is where I get all my brake stuff from...

Great quality - great prices...

http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...h=709_710_4893

worth checking them out.

 

I am running the first set of cryo drilled and slotted stoptech rotors and i think they are awesome

 

Did you get them from these guys or someplace else? If someplace else, post a link here so we could compare...

 

direct to stoptech. had to have them made. contacted them through my local shop great quality

 

So these brake discs can be used to replace the ones form factory... Do they provide better braking force or are they just for looks? How many miles do they last?

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ke-rotors1.htm

 

Thanks for the article man, I didn't know the difference between slotted and drilled brake rotors until I read this (I thought it was all for looks). I'm still learning a lot when it comes to all the car specifics and whatnot.

I'm still curious tho, if I were to purchase these rotors and install them on my car, how many miles would they last under normal driving conditions? I do want to upgrade my brakes but I don't know if I can afford to keep doing so in the long run (kinda poor).
And again, thanks for the info.

 

From what i understand and under normal street driving, the slotted/drilled rotors will last just as long as normal rotors, except that slotted can not be turned. When you change your brakes, usually around 60K miles for the front, and about 80k for the rear, (give or take)you are supposed to turn the rotors; meaning shave them down on both sides to make them perfectly flat again. By turning stock rotors, you can make them last longer. I take my rotors to a mom and pop auto shop and have them turned for about $30.

However... if you take your car to a brake place...say Midas or PepBoys, 99% of the time they are going to say "we can't turn the rotors." Is this always true? Absolutely not! Most times they can turn them, but they want to sell you new overpriced rotors. You can tell them no, but then you get no warranty. Long story short, if you change your own rotors/pads, stock rotors will last longer. If you have someone do the work, you may as well go slotted because they will insist you change them every time you change your brakes regardless.

Lastly, and this is pure opinion, I would imagine that slotted/drilled rotors would wear down the brake pads faster. It just makes sense when you think about it. Kind of like 500 grit sand paper Vs. 3000 grit.

 

sure slotted rotors can be turned down! I think they are even better because the slots are milled to the minimum thickness of the rotor...so, the slots act like indicators. Once the slots are gone, the rotors need to be replaced. If something strange happened, like your pads wore out or your discs got a bad case of thickness variation (vibration under braking) they can be machined down, just like any other rotor.

Under racing conditions, the drilled rotors dend to crack thgough the drill holes...a minus for the drilled rotors.

slots and drilled also does not have an impact on pad ware...pad size does.

 

Awesome, thanks for the info guys. Cool, so I understand what the rotors and pads are and their overall function, as well as how to improve/mod them.

But what I don't understand are the brake lines... What are they and how can I upgrade the stock ones? How do they fit in with the other mods (pads/rotors) and do I have to upgrade them all at once?

Basically, I just don't want to upgrade one aspect of the braking system, only to find out that I messed another aspect because the stock components couldn't handle the extra strain. Do I need to do them all at once (pads/rotors/lines) OR can I safely mod one at a time?

Any light you guys can shed on this subject is greatly appreciated Sorry for the excessive questions... thinking of changing my username to something more appropriate, like the Riddler lol

 

^^ if this guy posts it, it is good info. I have never owned slotted myself but I know people that have, and that is where I heard they can't be turned.

Now I have a question 2tc. How does the pad size effect the life of the pad? I think you are saying that If it is the same material, under that same conditions, the larger pads will wear faster? I don't understand how that would be, unless the larger pad was using more pressure to squeeze the caliper, or the larger pad is used on a heavier vehicle. If the car/pressure/conditions are the same, you would think that a larger pad would wear less quickly.

 

no, just the opposite. Larger pad = more area = more life
nothing more...and nothing to do with stopping power either...just more life.

 

Change one at a time or all at once is OK...but if you do it all at once, you'll feel a dramatic improvement. The only plus of changing pads and rotors at one time, is it will save you one bedding in process...you have to "seat" the pads to the disc each time one or the other are changed.

FYI...brake lines will NOT give you any more stopping power...it will only give you a much harder pedal with much better feel. It allows for much better regulation of your braking...going into and out of a corner.

 

Change one at a time or all at once is OK...but if you do it all at once, you'll feel a dramatic improvement. The only plus of changing pads and rotors at one time, is it will save you one bedding in process...you have to "seat" the pads to the disc each time one or the other are changed.

FYI...brake lines will NOT give you any more stopping power...it will only give you a much harder pedal with much better feel. It allows for much better regulation of your braking...going into and out of a corner.