I have been trolling the forums silently for a while. I was really hoping I wouldn't be one of those individuals having to post one of these questions. I did search and there are similar threads but most of them seemed to be related or correlate directly with turning. and Most reported a few weeks after lowering.

I just got lowered on Eibach Sportlines. The drop is perfect and the ride is actually very smooth and not much rougher than stock. (i'll get the before and after pics up after i get this resolved). No vibration. Unfortunately I immediately noticed the smallest cracks in the road cause a popping sound in the driver front wheel area. I also noticed certain rutted/grooved areas of pavement cause the popping to be persistent sounding much like a grinding noise.

The grinding symptom does not happen over 45 MPH. But it does still pop if i hit medium bumps or cracks in the road. There is no popping or grinding when turning at a stop, low speed or high speed. It does not seem to be related to turning at all.

I may be paranoid but it seems the passenger front is popping a little on medium sizes cracks and bumps after about 400 miles.

The suspension shop has taken the entire strut assembly out several times and double checked everything. Unfortunately they wern't smart enough to mark the top and bottom perches with a sharpie to make sure they went back together the exact same way as the video on here had suggested or that eibach's own website suggested.

The new springs were seated into the rubber in the same groove left by the factory springs. Is this the assumed correct position? Yes the sportline label/logo is right side up on all 4 springs.

Myself and the tech observed the top strut mount/bearing and it appears symmetrical in every way except the inner hole that is "D" shaped to match the strut shaft. But per the conversation in this forum the top strut bearing is the number 1 cause of most of the failed installs? Is there any way of identifying how the top strut plate is supposed to go since the tech didn't mark it with a sharpie? As far as i can see it can only go 1 of 3 ways. There is the "D" shaped hole that is to match the "D" strut shaft. Can anyone tell me which direct the "D" shaped should face when installed? or does it matter?

We have removed and reinstalled this strut and spring 3 times and still have the issue.

We can see no signs of grease or oil from the bearing or shock. Everything has been checked and double checked for tightness.

When looking at the top mounts installed and turning the steering wheel the top mount flexes upward and level, with no sound of grinding or friction at all. Could it still be the top strut bearings?

Checked all other components and nothing is loose.

Checked for any loosness in the wheelbearing under load of the car and up on the lift with and without the wheel. All seems to be good there.

It seems the issue is directly related to the up and down motion/travel of the suspension.

They are going to contact eibach and their distributor to see if they have any know reported issues. I told the tech i personally don't believe it's the springs. But what do i know. (As you can see in the following post apparently it is the springs and i really don't know anything ) ...RESOLVED. see following posts.

 

I am experiencing the same sort of noise, mine is more of a rattling as though something is loose. Very infuriating!! I lowered mine with Teins so it's not the spring itself. I am thinking that it is the shock, or the bearing that has gone bad, but the passenger side doesn't seem to be making the noise. Not sure what it could be...

 

I had a follow up appointment to find out what the hell was going on. They pulled the springs and found out that the bottom two coils are rubbing each other. After 400 miles its rubbed the powdercoat off to the bare metal. They put some rubber hose on to the spring and its completely silent. Love it! The rear springs came with isolators. The front did not. With the amount of rubbing I doubt isolators or the rubber they put in there is going to last long. But it helps me keep my sanity.

Obviously this isnt the permanent fix. The shop is going to be in contact with eibach to determine if its a defect or bad design or lack of isolators. I have had eibachs on previous vehicles and never had issues so I don't want to make eibach look bad, but we will see how they respond to the issue.

The car rides great and looks great. Ill keep this thread updated when I find out more.

 

^now that it's resolved, time for pics

 

These measurements were 5 minutes after picking it up from the shop. I expect it to settle another 1/4".

Dropped aprox. 1-5/8" in the Rear
Dropped aprox. 1-1/2" in the Front


http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5858566361/Drivers Side Front Before

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5858565817/Drivers Side Rear Before

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5858567671/Driver Side Front After

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5859121800/Driver Side Rear After

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5859127892/Alignment Specs (Based on 2010)
They didn't have 2011 in the system yet.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5859123520/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5859124592/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5858569565/

 

Looks like it's got a bit of reverse rake going on, or is there any weight in the hatch.

 

are those the sportline eibach springs because they say its suppose to 1.7 front and 2.3 rear ? im lookin for a nice drop off springs for now come towards winter when my car sits in the garage ima do full coilovers sway bars and etc

 

The factory springs were in the back, maybe 40lbs?
I don't see a rake, it looks level to me. I took the side shot and drew up some lines in Fireworks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalreaper/5860157756/

 

Eibach springs on the 2011 are 1.3 Front 1.7 Rear.

I think the lowest spring only setup I have seen is between H&R Race Springs and Tein S-tech.

 

looks good, more drop in the rear = less understeer, correct?

 

I just got mine in the mail, gonna get them on in a week or 2.

 

No! Not related...why would you think that?

 

Actually, your photos show that your front is just under 26” and your rear is just over 26” at the top of the fender well opening. That is a very good, consistent place to measure your relative ride height. That would give you just a little positive “rake”…that’s ideal! That is too low for my personal taste, but you got very good results.

 

They look great. Thanks for sharing. Please keep us updated on what the shop finds out from eibach.

 

if anyone is looking for just a small drop.. i think this is perfect!! not to low and not too high. looks smooth!

 

They did an alignment based on the 2010 specs? That doesn't make sense. The 2010 tC's were still the tC1's weren't they?

 

The system only went up to 2010, so the print out is auto-populated with that information. The tech stated that he kept everything as close to the stock readings as possible and simply ignored the recommended ranges since they were 2010. Although with the assembling and dis-assembling trying to figure out the issue i'll likely get another alignment after they give me a permanent solution. But for the time being there is no noticeable camber and drives straight as an arrow.

 

Hopefully they give you a free alignment when they get the 2011 specs.

 

Ride quality? The stiffness of my S-Techs is getting old.

 

This concerns me.