Snow tires...
12-06-2010, 04:43 PM
#21
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I guess I added the weight correction after you had posted...94 is the weight rating.
The wheel bearings these days are a single unit. Both rows of bearings are real close to each other. When the wheel, hub and brake discs are designed, all loads go through the center of those two rows of bearings. You have now shifted this load path. Is it ideal? NO. Does it put an un-needed load? YES. Will it fail? Eventually...but everything will fail eventually. Will it be significantly less? Probably not, but I wouldn't do it. But I'm a structural engineer.
The wheel bearings these days are a single unit. Both rows of bearings are real close to each other. When the wheel, hub and brake discs are designed, all loads go through the center of those two rows of bearings. You have now shifted this load path. Is it ideal? NO. Does it put an un-needed load? YES. Will it fail? Eventually...but everything will fail eventually. Will it be significantly less? Probably not, but I wouldn't do it. But I'm a structural engineer.
12-06-2010, 04:52 PM
#22
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I guess I added the weight correction after you had posted...94 is the weight rating.
The wheel bearings these days are a single unit. Both rows of bearings are real close to each other. When the wheel, hub and brake discs are designed, all loads go through the center of those two rows of bearings. You have now shifted this load path. Is it ideal? NO. Does it put an un-needed load? YES. Will it fail? Eventually...but everything will fail eventually. Will it be significantly less? Probably not, but I wouldn't do it. But I'm a structural engineer.
The wheel bearings these days are a single unit. Both rows of bearings are real close to each other. When the wheel, hub and brake discs are designed, all loads go through the center of those two rows of bearings. You have now shifted this load path. Is it ideal? NO. Does it put an un-needed load? YES. Will it fail? Eventually...but everything will fail eventually. Will it be significantly less? Probably not, but I wouldn't do it. But I'm a structural engineer.
I'll take some pictures, i think they may have placed hub rings as well?
12-06-2010, 05:02 PM
#23
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For future reference, ALWAYS keep the same offset. Offset is the dimension from the centerline of the wheel to the mounting face of the hub. Now there is also a back spacing for wheels. That should only be used a reference for clearance to your suspension. Back spacing is from the inside bead of the wheel to the mounting face of the hub. All tire loads go through the centerline of the contact patch of the tire...the centerline of the wheel. The tire loads are the major loads. The next highest load is from braking.
I always laugh at people when I see wheels sticking out...they think it looks good, but they completely screwed up their suspension geometry and load paths. You did just the opposite...your wheels sick in! Neither one is good. You are only 6-mm off. Probably not enough to cry about...but...
I always laugh at people when I see wheels sticking out...they think it looks good, but they completely screwed up their suspension geometry and load paths. You did just the opposite...your wheels sick in! Neither one is good. You are only 6-mm off. Probably not enough to cry about...but...
12-06-2010, 05:31 PM
#24
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^Actually, he's a lot worse off then just 6mm.
Note, the stock wheel is 7.5" wide and 39 offset. His new wheels (from what I can tell) are 6.5" wide and 45 offset.
Use those numbers in this calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
If you do, you'll notice that the new wheel provides 7mm more inner clearance, but 19mm less on the outside (obviously due to the wheel width).
The wheel looks like it will work fine, but my question is, why didn't you stay with a 7" wide wheel at minimum? Who did the install?
I put snows on and have not had a single issue in over 3,000kms....
Note, the stock wheel is 7.5" wide and 39 offset. His new wheels (from what I can tell) are 6.5" wide and 45 offset.
Use those numbers in this calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
If you do, you'll notice that the new wheel provides 7mm more inner clearance, but 19mm less on the outside (obviously due to the wheel width).
The wheel looks like it will work fine, but my question is, why didn't you stay with a 7" wide wheel at minimum? Who did the install?
I put snows on and have not had a single issue in over 3,000kms....
12-06-2010, 07:37 PM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
^Actually, he's a lot worse off then just 6mm.
Note, the stock wheel is 7.5" wide and 39 offset. His new wheels (from what I can tell) are 6.5" wide and 45 offset.
Use those numbers in this calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
If you do, you'll notice that the new wheel provides 7mm more inner clearance, but 19mm less on the outside (obviously due to the wheel width).
The wheel looks like it will work fine, but my question is, why didn't you stay with a 7" wide wheel at minimum? Who did the install?
I put snows on and have not had a single issue in over 3,000kms....
Note, the stock wheel is 7.5" wide and 39 offset. His new wheels (from what I can tell) are 6.5" wide and 45 offset.
Use those numbers in this calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
If you do, you'll notice that the new wheel provides 7mm more inner clearance, but 19mm less on the outside (obviously due to the wheel width).
The wheel looks like it will work fine, but my question is, why didn't you stay with a 7" wide wheel at minimum? Who did the install?
I put snows on and have not had a single issue in over 3,000kms....
12-07-2010, 02:43 AM
#27
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 142
to the person who just moved to boston-
i drove on the stock eagle ls tires( i have a 06' scion Xa) for three winters here in boston and they suck bad.
I got a set for of snow tires for $100 on craigslist brand new.
Anytime it snowed or slush my tires lost contact and a slid. If its your first time driving in snow higly suggest you get some. Driving in snow is completely different and requires a whole new driving skill!
i drove on the stock eagle ls tires( i have a 06' scion Xa) for three winters here in boston and they suck bad.
I got a set for of snow tires for $100 on craigslist brand new.
Anytime it snowed or slush my tires lost contact and a slid. If its your first time driving in snow higly suggest you get some. Driving in snow is completely different and requires a whole new driving skill!
12-07-2010, 06:25 PM
#28
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Posts: 41
Why would the washers be loose, how's the tire even being held in if there's so much space between the rims and lugnuts? Sorry for the amateurish quesions, but I reallly know very little about these things.
Thanks
12-07-2010, 07:01 PM
#29
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There are several way of “holding” a wheel to the hub…Most auto manufacturers use the cone on the end of the lug-nut to seat onto the wheel…this centers the wheel also. On steel wheels, this works. On aluminum wheels, the point load may be too high, so a washer is added as a fastening surface. On a lot of aluminum wheels, the center of the hub centers the wheel on the hub…then the cones become useless. The Scion lug-nut have both; a captured washer and a conical face. The washer seats up against the aluminum wheel (your summer tires) and the cone was designed to seat up against the spare (the steel wheel). Since you have mounted your winter tires on steel wheels, the cone is used to center and mount the wheel. You are hearing the clacking of the captured washers on the lug-nut…normal. Again, not what I would have done. I’ve just ordered a set of Michelin X-Ice Xi2 in 225/45R18 and I’m mounting them on the stock wheels this Saturday. I plan to buy a set of F-Sport 19 X 9J Full Face Forged Aluminum Wheels this spring for my summer tires. I will sell the OEM tires on e-bay, Craig’s list, here…
12-07-2010, 07:40 PM
#30
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Posts: 41
There are several way of “holding” a wheel to the hub…Most auto manufacturers use the cone on the end of the lug-nut to seat onto the wheel…this centers the wheel also. On steel wheels, this works. On aluminum wheels, the point load may be too high, so a washer is added as a fastening surface. On a lot of aluminum wheels, the center of the hub centers the wheel on the hub…then the cones become useless. The Scion lug-nut have both; a captured washer and a conical face. The washer seats up against the aluminum wheel (your summer tires) and the cone was designed to seat up against the spare (the steel wheel). Since you have mounted your winter tires on steel wheels, the cone is used to center and mount the wheel. You are hearing the clacking of the captured washers on the lug-nut…normal. Again, not what I would have done. I’ve just ordered a set of Michelin X-Ice Xi2 in 225/45R18 and I’m mounting them on the stock wheels this Saturday. I plan to buy a set of F-Sport 19 X 9J Full Face Forged Aluminum Wheels this spring for my summer tires. I will sell the OEM tires on e-bay, Craig’s list, here…
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