Jacking Up a Small Car
#1
Jacking Up a Small Car
From reading the Toyota service manual and browsing online for proper jacking techniques, I found a link to a site where a gentleman owning a MINI Cooper discovered what looks to be an ideal way to jack up a small car around these sizes. Since our cars are well within the same curb weights (the xA being lighter, a good thing for this topic), our center of gravity is simmilar, and our wheelbases are simmilar (the xA is 3.8" shorter; again, good), I think his idea should work equally well.
His link: http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?p=76
I've read the 2 ways people seem to be jacking the xA, and this can work either way; for those who use the thin Skirt joint that the Toyota material suggests, two notches could be cut into the pieces of wood at the respective points, while those who choose to use the 1" frame rail could leave the board as-is. If the board did require some adjusting due to the frame rail not being perfectly flat, I don't recall any reason why that would be extremely hard.
I haven't fully explored using the board on the 1" frame rail, so it might not be possible at all (feedback?), but I am next to positive that this should work on the side skirt. A set of flat-topped stands should be just fine.
Feedback? Opinions? I'll try this as soon as I can, but as of now, I don't have the money for new jack stands (nor springs, which would be my only reason for getting under there).
EDIT: I've never used a bike/ATV jack, but it looks as though it would be very possible to use one of these jacks with the method illustrated in the link for better weight distribution. I haven't seen one that holds more than 1,500lbs, but seeing as how our cars weigh ~2,350, that should be plenty for one side. Do these jacks require stands, or do they function as stands as well? I'd figure using stands on an ATV would be pretty difficult..
His link: http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?p=76
I've read the 2 ways people seem to be jacking the xA, and this can work either way; for those who use the thin Skirt joint that the Toyota material suggests, two notches could be cut into the pieces of wood at the respective points, while those who choose to use the 1" frame rail could leave the board as-is. If the board did require some adjusting due to the frame rail not being perfectly flat, I don't recall any reason why that would be extremely hard.
I haven't fully explored using the board on the 1" frame rail, so it might not be possible at all (feedback?), but I am next to positive that this should work on the side skirt. A set of flat-topped stands should be just fine.
Feedback? Opinions? I'll try this as soon as I can, but as of now, I don't have the money for new jack stands (nor springs, which would be my only reason for getting under there).
EDIT: I've never used a bike/ATV jack, but it looks as though it would be very possible to use one of these jacks with the method illustrated in the link for better weight distribution. I haven't seen one that holds more than 1,500lbs, but seeing as how our cars weigh ~2,350, that should be plenty for one side. Do these jacks require stands, or do they function as stands as well? I'd figure using stands on an ATV would be pretty difficult..
#2
Just looked over that link u posted since I couldn't understand the concept that u were trying to explain. I highly recommend against doing what was posted in that link. Has to be the dumbest thing I've seen in awhile. Extremely unsafe and you'll run a high risk of damageing the chassis. If you want to jack up the car jack it up from one corner at a time at the designed jacking point, and let the car down on the jackstand and then move onto the next point.
Cars today aren't like the old body on frame cars of yesterday where u can jack up the car at pretty much any point on the frame. These new cars can't handle it due to the design of the frame rail and it being made a different kind of steal that's much thinner than those old box frames. And common....just look at the pictures. Ur going to be spending more time trying to figure out a point that will be stable enough to lift the car up without it tipping forward or backwards. And since most of the weight is in the front you'll have alot of the rear not being supported. And using a peice of wood on a jack like that is another no no.
And don't put a Motorcycle jack anywhere near a car. Those types of jacks will 1)not be able to handle the weight of the average car. You either won't be able to jack the vehicle up at all, or if you somehow do get it up you run the risk of the hydrolic piston giving out on you. And 2) Those types of jacks are designed to lift at the heviest part of the motorcycle which is directly under the engine. Unless you have a well designed performance car which has a 50/50 weight distribution (which few cars out there have) most of the weight will be on the front, rendering that idea useless.
Look at that link as how you want but you'll have an extremely good chance of it resulting in costly repairs and a trip to the hospital....there's a reason y those jacking points were designed/built in their respected locations, and why a good lift will lift a car at those 4 points.............Please be safe.
Cars today aren't like the old body on frame cars of yesterday where u can jack up the car at pretty much any point on the frame. These new cars can't handle it due to the design of the frame rail and it being made a different kind of steal that's much thinner than those old box frames. And common....just look at the pictures. Ur going to be spending more time trying to figure out a point that will be stable enough to lift the car up without it tipping forward or backwards. And since most of the weight is in the front you'll have alot of the rear not being supported. And using a peice of wood on a jack like that is another no no.
And don't put a Motorcycle jack anywhere near a car. Those types of jacks will 1)not be able to handle the weight of the average car. You either won't be able to jack the vehicle up at all, or if you somehow do get it up you run the risk of the hydrolic piston giving out on you. And 2) Those types of jacks are designed to lift at the heviest part of the motorcycle which is directly under the engine. Unless you have a well designed performance car which has a 50/50 weight distribution (which few cars out there have) most of the weight will be on the front, rendering that idea useless.
Look at that link as how you want but you'll have an extremely good chance of it resulting in costly repairs and a trip to the hospital....there's a reason y those jacking points were designed/built in their respected locations, and why a good lift will lift a car at those 4 points.............Please be safe.
#3
I don't think it would take much to figure out what point to jack up at, you would only need to look at the Toyota service manual - it specifies the center of gravity.
As far as using wood on a jack, that's definately NOT a no-no.. it's wise to put wood or a large rubber block between the jack and vehicle to help distribute the load and avoid scratching, and on a lot of jack stand points you pretty much need a piece of wood or a rubber square..
1.) We aren't talking about the "average car," we are talking about a 2,300lb subcompact. If the jack can "only" handle over half of the weight of the car, and you are only lifting up half of the car... Besides, some of the force is shifted to the opposite side (tires/suspension, other jack stands) so you won't be lifting up the full half-weight of the car anyway.
2.) The idea isn't useless if you position the jack closer to the front of the car, and follow the documented center of gravity as stated previously.
As for a trip to the hospital.. What?? The only time you would be under the car is AFTER setting up the stands. If the procedure is done properly, the stands are going to be placed where they should be placed Anyway, directly under the points of the frame specified in the manual.
The worst thing I can see happening is, during the first try, jacking up the board (Slowly, of course) starts to bend up on the small V rib, or the board starts to crack. This would be a good indicator to stop. I've read worse damage posted on this forum from people trying to jack their cars up with flat jacks on these same spots...
P.S. - Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shun your opinions. I'm glad for the feedback - that's the whole point of an open forum.
As far as using wood on a jack, that's definately NOT a no-no.. it's wise to put wood or a large rubber block between the jack and vehicle to help distribute the load and avoid scratching, and on a lot of jack stand points you pretty much need a piece of wood or a rubber square..
1.) We aren't talking about the "average car," we are talking about a 2,300lb subcompact. If the jack can "only" handle over half of the weight of the car, and you are only lifting up half of the car... Besides, some of the force is shifted to the opposite side (tires/suspension, other jack stands) so you won't be lifting up the full half-weight of the car anyway.
2.) The idea isn't useless if you position the jack closer to the front of the car, and follow the documented center of gravity as stated previously.
As for a trip to the hospital.. What?? The only time you would be under the car is AFTER setting up the stands. If the procedure is done properly, the stands are going to be placed where they should be placed Anyway, directly under the points of the frame specified in the manual.
The worst thing I can see happening is, during the first try, jacking up the board (Slowly, of course) starts to bend up on the small V rib, or the board starts to crack. This would be a good indicator to stop. I've read worse damage posted on this forum from people trying to jack their cars up with flat jacks on these same spots...
P.S. - Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shun your opinions. I'm glad for the feedback - that's the whole point of an open forum.
#5
if you only need to service the front or rear, ramps are way more safrer than jacking and use of jack stands. I leave my floor jack under the fromt or rear cross member just incase. Also jack with a floor jack, save the tire jack for the times you need to change the tire on the side of the road.
If you do jack in the wrong spots, you risk denting the floor pan too.
If you do jack in the wrong spots, you risk denting the floor pan too.
#6
I agree with the ramps - most of my work is done on them. Much easier and much safer. There are times, though, when they just don't do. Suspension work, brake work, tire rotation, etc. all require other means, though.
You can definately risk denting the floorpan, but that's why you should always pay attention to what you are doing - I've heard horror stories about shops jacking up models like my other car ('87 300zx) and pushing the entire floor up 3-4 inches... a little bit of common sense goes a long way!!
You can definately risk denting the floorpan, but that's why you should always pay attention to what you are doing - I've heard horror stories about shops jacking up models like my other car ('87 300zx) and pushing the entire floor up 3-4 inches... a little bit of common sense goes a long way!!
#8
Agreed... wood on a jack is not a no-no. I've used it plenty of times, especially when jacking a truck up by the pumpkin of the rear axle. It prevents damage to the frame or axle and helps to distribute the load.
And if you jack the car up by the floorpan, well. You're just an idiot. Put your wrench away and hand in your man card.
I can actually jack my car up by the front jack point behind the front wheel and lift the rear wheel as well. One of the bonuses of having a rear sway and stiff springs.
And if you jack the car up by the floorpan, well. You're just an idiot. Put your wrench away and hand in your man card.
I can actually jack my car up by the front jack point behind the front wheel and lift the rear wheel as well. One of the bonuses of having a rear sway and stiff springs.
#9
lmao - bet that makes things nice and easy!
Given that our cars weigh so little, it's impressive to see how little is needed for support compared to the heavier cars I've owned/worked on. My garage feels almost a little overboard for the xA..
Given that our cars weigh so little, it's impressive to see how little is needed for support compared to the heavier cars I've owned/worked on. My garage feels almost a little overboard for the xA..
#10
I was about to say that I can get both tires off the ground from the front jacking point....I don't particularly like it and I SURE don't work on it like that, but it is one of the few times being short and stiff is a good thing.
#11
Are you able to jack it up enough to put stands under the front and rear of the vehicle? if so (and assuming that much weight on the front jack location is OK for the car), then screw the other ideas - I'll just buy a high-lifting, flat jack.
#13
Jeez. I've never had a problem jacking my cars the right way. Even on my 3500lb '56 Ford. I never jack on the middle of the frame. That's a LOT of weight for the jack.
If you don't have the time to jack it one corner at a time, you probably don't have enought time to spend working on your car withour rushing.
If you don't have the time to jack it one corner at a time, you probably don't have enought time to spend working on your car withour rushing.
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12-06-2014 11:58 PM