Have you noticed any water issues with it? I have not removed the hose yet but sometime next week I will do it.

What does Neil want to say here? I read his reply to your post on EM and could not really get what he meant.

Also XA-llent have some great points. I have never driven a car lowered and not sure what are the risks involved in there. Other than reducing drag how does it help for suspension etc?

I have ordered steel moonies off the eBay. I am waiting for my OBD2 bluetooth scanner. Hopefully that will help me a lot understaning car's behavior.

I did manage to replace my air filter with FRAM one and that is first ever car repair I ever did. What a progress. Oh wait! I did replace a broken mirror on my old Corolla 4-5 years back.

I want to start with Oil change and Tire rotation on my own. What is the best way of getting rid of the changed oil? Also how easy it is do. I do have my own garage but nothing to raise my car than the stock jack. Any tips will be really helpfull.

 

It hasn't rained here since June so I haven't been able to test if water will get in. I'm not worried about it because even if water goes into the air filter box it can't get up onto the filter and it has drain holes in the bottom for the water to drain out of the air filter box.


I have an idea on what he means but I don't know if I can explain it without pictures. I will take some and post back at a later time.

I also have not lowered a car or driven a lowered car so this will be my first attempt. I have researched it a lot and from my experience auto-crossing and talking to those guys it will help with body roll, handling and cornering as well as reducing the amount of air going under the car and creating aerodynamic drag on the car. The drawbacks are that you will have to drive a lot more carefully so as to avoid potholes, speed bumps and steep parking lot entrances.

Congrats on getting that air filter replaced. Once you get started and feel a little more confident you will probably become addicted to tearing your car apart to learn more about it. I've completely removed and replaced the interior dash/carpets/seats/trim/door panels and what not from several of my cars for various reasons. I won't tear an engine apart without help though.

I do my own oil changes and tire rotations every time. Old oil can be taken to your local auto parts dealer and they will usually dispose of it for free. If they don't take it, then find a mechanic shop that will. Even the big name companies will usually take used oil as long as it doesn't have contaminants like gasoline or coolant in it.

The oil change on the xA is pretty easy compared to other cars.

1. Make sure you put the car in park and set the parking brake. Place something behind the rear wheels so the car will not roll off the jack if the brakes fail.

2. Use the jack to jack up the passenger side of the car. The jacking location can be found in the owners manual. It is located near the hinge point on the front door I believe.

3. Place a jack-stand, cylinder block, or solid wood block in a location that will let it take the weight of the vehicle when you remove the jack.

4. Go to the other side and do the same thing. Make sure you have the entire weight of the car on your jack-stands or cylinder blocks before you remove the jack.

5. Open hood and remove the Oil fill cap on top of the engine.

6. Place oil pan under the engine oil plug and remove the plug slowly. Use a 10mm socket to break the torque (counter-clockwise) remember righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. Once it is loose use your hand and be prepared for oil to come out. Keep some extra rags around for clean up.

7.After the oil has drained, remove the oil filter. It is located a little bit closer to the nose of the car and is almost hidden by the black plastic panels under there. Oil will come out of the filter and run down your arm as you take this one of too, so make sure you have rags and the oil pan ready.

8. Clean off and replace the oil plug bolt and put some new oil on the seal of the new oil filter and put new filter on. Hand tighten the oil filter then back it off about a quarter turn or less, so the filter seal doesn't get crushed and start to leak later.

9. Don't forget to put new oil in the car. 3.8 quarts is what it takes.

10. When you start the engine make sure you don't touch the gas pedal until the oil pressure warning light goes off.

11. Check for leaks and remove the jack stands using the jack. Be careful

12. Celebrate with a beer or whatever you drink and don't forget to take the used oil in to be disposed of properly.

 

You should be careful with running the engine that hot all the time - the intake manifold is make of plastic and running HOT intake air is probably going to age the plastic a lot faster. Also the AC is working really hard with the front grill blocked off that much making the compressor even hotter which will break down the lubrication in the system faster. You are also adding a lot of wear and tear on the cooling fan and battery after you stop making it run so much - mine almost never turns on and I can get over 50mpg average in my 06xB. Check your coolent over flow bottle often. Other than that, you are getting some impressive results. You may also find that the Mooneyes will make some nice clicking noise after a while and chew the paint off the rims . . . I finally took mine off when SOMEBODY STOLE ONE off the right rear wheel and went back to my original spoked wheel covers and also found out that the Moon Eyes were throwing my wheel balance off a little - now they are perfectly smooth again with 35k on the tires.

 

I was thinking some more about the rear wheel wells and the air drag. If you use aluminum I'm thinking it may conduct wind noise.
A similar plastic like what is already there may work better and easier to bend the way you want it. I wonder if you ordered the plastic insert for the front wheel well and modded it for the rear? You could remove the existing piece and use it as a pattern to shape the replacement piece. If you manage to get that closed up, you may even discover a way to reduce interior noise. A lot of the noise comes from the rear and I wonder if that may be a better way than Dynamating the inside. Just a side bonus. Whatever you use, make sure it's black. Anything else will stick out like a sore thumb.
Maybe a carbon fiber hood could help as well. More $$$, I know.
I was also thinking about the gap between the grill and the hood. Perhaps getting some weather stripping like around the doors and run it just along the inside edge of the front of the hood and it would be flexible enough to conform to the odd edges and close up the gap without looking odd. Just an idea.
Oh and maybe a stubby antenna may help just a tad?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jan06xB

You should be careful with running the engine that hot all the time - the intake manifold is make of plastic and running HOT intake air is probably going to age the plastic a lot faster. Also the AC is working really hard with the front grill blocked off that much making the compressor even hotter which will break down the lubrication in the system faster. You are also adding a lot of wear and tear on the cooling fan and battery after you stop making it run so much - mine almost never turns on and I can get over 50mpg average in my 06xB.

That is a valid point. But how about partial grill mods. For example the cubbies for fog lights on the Scion xA bumper are useless if you don't have the fog lights and blocking them makes all sense. I removed the tape from the lower grills and only 2 inch is blocked and still full width of 4 inch height is still open. This has stopped the fan running over and over. Use if AC is inevitable in Dallas weather. I will see if I can do partial grill blocks and let not the engine running all the time.

Toxshox uses his ScanGauge II which tells him about all the temperatures in the engine and I am hoping those are not too high. Of course he lives in Oregon which has half the temperatures of Dallas at any time.




Well I have just got the mooneyes today. I will not put those on until next week sometimes. My scion is parked outside these days and only after Tuesday I will be able to park inside garage. Last week I cleaned up my garage and got so many boxes to be thrown out for recycling and truck will show up on Tuesday.

I plan to use Rust-o-Leum clear paint on both my steel rim and moon eyes before I put them so this will help them last a longer.

Also Steel mooneyes is prone to hand prints and this will take care of it. I will definitely save my stock hub caps so I can use them if somebody likes mine hub caps more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jan06xB

and I can get over 50mpg average in my 06xB.

I would really love to know all the techniques you use to to get this kind of mpgs. GasSavers.org looks really cool and I am excited to learn from all the experts.

I am still confused about Engine-On Coasting in Neutral for Automatic transmission on my car. As per my understanding I should do it only when I am going to stop at stop lights or Red lights without hurting my transmission.

Well yesterday I did a day trip to Houston in my Odyssey. Since I was late in morning did not really hypermile and did drive almost by 80 mph all the time. While coming back late at night did draft (really safely by keeping 100+ feet distance) behind a 18 wheeler. This truck driver was driving really steady and was a good driver. ECO light on my Odyssey was on all the time and I used almost half the fuel I used while going to Houston.
Although I do not recommend drafting but if you stay 100+ feet behind the truck still helps a lot.

Have fun!

 

Well I looked closely at my air filter assembly and understood what you are trying to say!
I looked at some lowering springs and cheapest you can get are from megan racing for $119. I saw some xA photos with those installed by a guy in Chicago it seems. Not sure how good those are but he lowered his car by 2". It may be worth trying.

Great information. I am looking forward to try this out. Let's see if I can find some time to do that. At the same time a newly opened AAMCO is advertising $19.99 for Oil Change and tire rotation.

I don't want to loose of feeling of self achievement so I will try this out myself. I will be heading out to harbor frieght tool to buy some jack stands cheap. (2 Ton above)

Thansks a lot toxshox.

 

First I would like to congratulate you all for wanting to improve your driving, your driving skills and save a little money while doing so. With that said, our vehicles (Scion) have the capability of DFCO, Deceleration fuel cut off, however the only way to engage this mode in your vehicle is to allow the vehicle to coast while in gear or engine brake as its called.

Not knowing wat terrains you guys are driving in or the distances you are coasting in neutral to stops, you may want to try simply coasting in gear. For those of you that have Scangauges you will see the gauge immediately go to 9999 instead of 200+mpg. It does slow you down faster, however if your coasting distances are less than 1/4 mile you may benefit more from this technique than letting the car coast in idle to a stop.

Just my 2 cents as I too hypermile with my xD and am happily getting over 50mpg city and 45+ mpg highway.

Keep up the good work.

 

What He Said x 2 for slowing down in gear usually about 1000-1200 rpm it will shut off the injectors. On roads with a down hill slope you should be able to coast quite well in neutral - I have a couple of routes that have a 1 mile gentle down hill at about 25mph that will increase my trip mpg for a 19 mile trip by about 3mpg on that one mile stretch alone and every bit helps add to the average. The big savings I find is taking it really easy on the gas pedal until the engine warms up. Back off on the gas early when you have to stop and watch for the light way up ahead so you can time the arrival when it goes green again or at least decelerate towards it - the longer you you decelerate in gear the less fuel you are burning.

 

In addition and for those that drive short trips instead of long ones, consider buying a block heater, then plug your car in and in no time your car's block and fluids are up to temp even before you turn it on, eliminating the losses from waiting for all fluids to heat up while driving.

 

I appreciate your comments and wanted to summarize and categorize this in two things.
1. with my auto transmission xA I am waiting for a light and I know this is a long light I have two options. Literally shut off the engine and wait and other option is just to put the car in neutral and wait.
Which options is safest (for transmission) and helps me increase my FE. How does DFCO works if I am in neutral instead of Drive.

2. I see a light half a mile down and then I coast just in "Drive" or coast in neutral. (Engine is on on my Auto Trans.). Which saves me on FE. Also does coasting on neutral is recommended for Auto trans car. I understand that I need to be carefull while I slow down or stop and then put my car in Drive gear.

Experts inputs are appreciated.

 

I figured out that my engine burns about half a penny a minute at idle (0.12 gallons per hour) so although it looks like it is killing your gas mileage it doesn't really seem very cost effective to shut off the engine then start it up again which btw mine runs like crap after a hot start for about 30 seconds.

I really don't know if keeping it in gear burns less gas or not but you will have to keep your foot on the brake and in gear it adds to the tranny fluid heat when you are working the torque converter without moving.

Coast in neutral up to a light if you would not reach it in gear but if you are going to have to stop anyway then slow down in gear to get some DFCO. I assume the tranny does downshift by itself as you slow down so just keep your foot off the gas. You really have to just try it and see what works - the big thing is not to use the brakes unless you need to really slow down for a light then I will brake to loose some speed and then DFCO up to the light usually in time to get it green.

One thing I do find is that the AC will raise the fuel burn rate and the idle when slowing down and likes to keep the engine about 1200 rpm or a little more sometimes and it depends upon the heater fan setting - the faster you run the fan the more the compressor runs and even the radiator fans will kick in if the blower is set above the lowest setting. Turning on the AC on a down hill will do some really screwy things to the throttle too - sometimes you get a lot of engine braking and sometimes the car speeds up with added throttle or throttle bypass. I drive down a steep hill in first gear sometimes and play with the AC on off button and really get a kick out of what the engineers designed into this cooling system.

 

DFCO does not work when coasting in neutral, only when in gear. It also stops working at speeds below 20 moh. For sitting at lights, red lights that you see change and will sit for more than 10 sec., simply turn off your vehicle. Grant it, I am manual, however I can usually start my car and get moving before anyone else next to me even gets started.

And in case it has not been mentioned here yet, for all you automatics, go synthetic both oil and tranny fluid, you will see gains in your mpg's.

 

Thanks a lot for the info. I am going to start doing all the car maintenance myself. It will be easy and cheaper to go Synthentic then.

Have you any of you guys have lowered your cars? I am thinking of buying lowering springs by Megan Racing (approx $150) and then lower it by 2".
I hope that will make some reduction in underbody drag. But is it worth it and makes any sense?

At the same time I think If I make wheel skirts and underbody pan then it seems much cheaper and easy to do.

What say?

 

Well I finally got Moon Eyes Hub Caps are installed. Also got a bumper Sticker saying "Research Vehicle, Please pass" to save myself from raging pickup drivers in Dallas.

Here are the pics:




and here is the sticker. It is removebale by magnetic backing.

 

I don't understand this "warm air". You want cold air which creates a denser air charge which allows the engine to run more efficent which gives better mpg and power.

 

Old myth, it takes more fuel to start your car back up than it takes to sit and idle. your motor dumps alot of fuel into your motor at start up. A
Also the little dinky quarter penny will not be very saving when you have to replace your starter after turning your car off and on a 100x a day.

 

EXACTLY! Just keep it running and we won't even mention the thermal cycling of the CAT and the added emissions, stress of plain bearings in the engine with hot oil, hot spots in the engine coolent, etc etc etc.

Another thing to help mileage is a really slippery wax job on the body and glass surfaces. I use a polymer polish called RejeX which works better than RainX on the windows and windshield as well as the painted surfaces for keeping dirt and dead bugs from sticking.

GOD I miss my moon disks (racing disks) . . . someone stole one off my right rear a few weeks ago so the stock mag caps are back on now.

 

Wrong, the myth came about related to vehicles with carburetors which required you to pump the gas to get them running. Today's fuel injection does not require additional fuel to get the car running, therefore, leaving the car on BURNS more fuel... this is evident and proven using a measuring device such as a Scangauge. The only time a FI vehicle burns more fuel than normal is cold start ups, but a block heater can remedy that as well.

Wax does not help you gain MPG's. Dirty or clean my mpg's remain consistent in accordance to wind and weather conditions. While waxing your car is a great way to maintain your vehicle and perserve your paint, no wax will improve how slippery your vehicle pushes through the wind to any measureable extent.

 

Wait a minute - you need to look at the fuel burn rate on your SG after you start your warm engine and you will see the engine race and burn considerable gas at startup even when warm. As far as carburated engines you don't have to touch the gas pedal to start them when they are warm if they are running well. The fuel injected ones on the other hand have no idea how long they were turned off so they run through a startup proceedure and that includes making the engine rev a bit when started. Guess I need to run a startup test and watch the impact on the MPG reading for the trip.

As far as a clean finish, I get over 50mpg like 55mpg when I polish the painted and glass surfaces - maybe because I have higher mileage to start with that makes the drag effect more noticable that it helps but we are talking about surface friction and it seems to work for me. Hey they do it to airplanes so think about that . . . in fact the polish I use is recommended for Jet aircraft. My last tank of gas was 500.0 miles on the odometer 49.0 mpg on the SGII.

 

Okay I am back on this thread. I certainly don't want let this thread to die and keep on the valuable discussions going on.

I finally got my Bluetooth OBD II scanner ($25) and I have been toying around with it almost a month now. I have been using OBDScope Software Trial Version 1.20 and then 1.21 and track my vehicle's OBD information.

OBDScope runs on Symbian OS and eventually on my Nokia E71. I do not have any photos for upload but the best information can be found at obdscope.com.

This software connects flawlessly and allows me to log all the gauges it can see. also it has multi split display where I can see 3, 5 or even 7 guages at the same time. I have attached a file here for latest logs I took last week from my commute. (Excel CSV format)

The Bluetooth OBD II dongle I ordered from eBay and seems some Chinese made clone of original ELM327. It works flawlessly though. I had issue of disconnecting the link. OBDScope Support team fixed the issue with their quick suggestions and even releasing a specific patch.

This software just cost 9.95 Euros and I love it. Only reason I am sticking with my E71 is it's superior battery life and I simply love it.

By the way I also tried the Torqu software on the Android platform which is impressive but still does not even come close to OBDScope. May be I am biased more with OBDScope but it does have a huge potential.

Okay Now I have questions about some of the things I noticed about my xA.
1. Spring Snap - Everytime I start the car and turn the handle (only in forward motion) I hear a spring snap. Loud enough. It seems it is coming from steering column lock or column itself. Does anybody experience that?

2. Tank capacity: Manual Says 11.9 gallons. But every time I get fuel low indicator and even If I drive 30 miles with it. I still end up filling up in the vicinity of 10 gallons of gas. Exactly how much is a total capacity, how much is a reserve?

2a. Also regarding I had a fuel low indicator flashing on me couple of times and I did shut off my car at a light (long wait) and after starting I noticed it was gone. Did not show up for another 7 miles till 10 miles of drive.
what does that mean.

3. We had lot of rain few weeks back and while driving through those flood waters (typical Dallas) I found that whenever water splashed a lot I had my battery indicator come on for few moments and gone. One of the terminal on my battery do not have the rubber cover and not sure if the water reaching all the way to the top of the battery?

4. Now this is not a question but I have noted significant difference in FE (almost 3 mpg) after I have got moon hubcaps and removed the spare from my car. I am watching my tire pressure regularly and inflating those till 40psi for tires rated for 44psi max.

Jan0xB

What are the trick's you are using to get that impressive 50mpgs on xB? xB is certainly not as aero as xA but still.

I am getting 39mpgs on 90% highway commute on my xA and would like to boost it to atleast 42-43 mpgs.