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2.0 stroker kit

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Old 11-08-2005, 07:55 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by KangaRod
LoL
Not that I don't believe you, but you can't claim to have a 4AGTE swapped into your xB, and then claim you don't want to show anyone because its custom. Of course its custom. I would think that after investing so much time and money you'd want to show it off instead of keeping it so secret.
Or are you one of those guys that lives their life a quartermile at a time, and pops their hood for nobody?

There are so many flippin' ricers on this site, I don't know who to believe anymore.
Which is why i don't believe a lot of people on here until i see it for myself. There are few i do believe, but its because i know them personally or they have earned my trust. All forums are like that though, not just this one.

Cya
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Old 11-10-2005, 03:59 AM
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pics and dyno sheets speak volumes.... there are role models who post pics and dyno sheets follow their lead and post evidence or stop blowing smoke.........
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Sciond
pics and dyno sheets speak volumes.... there are role models who post pics and dyno sheets follow their lead and post evidence or stop blowing smoke.........
Pretty much, yeah. I've said a few times, even recently about future mods. But i think i've been here enough and people that know me, know i'm not just talking and plan to do everything i say. With that said, until you get in a place where people know you well here..and respect you vs. complain about you all the time. (not saying you have or haven't) Just post pictures, dyno runs and other solid evidence to shut those who doubt you.

A 2.0 stroke is one of those things to be proven around here. Thats a huge stroke. Post, and get it over with.

Good luck if you are doing it,
Cya
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Old 11-24-2005, 04:54 AM
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Default Stroker update

Whats up guys just give you a little update on my project.


Iam going to have a custom stroker crank made for my x/b. My engine guy has a company that will do it for cost. for a little r&d, I don't know how big of a stroke you can go with that 1.5 motor. I hope 2.0 or 1.8 it depends on the rod ratio and clearance in the block for the bigger crank.

Iam having my heads ported just on the roof and the blitz s/c intake as well to help the flow without killing my bottom end torque. Of course I will have the block sleeved plus forged pistons and a custom set of forged steel rods. also bump the nitrous from 50 to 150.

Also my engine guy thought it would be a good idea to mod my aem cold air intake to run a cone style filter that flows air down the center of the filter, and make a inlet on the front of my air dam with a wire grill to get fresh air like a ram air system.

Last but not least dyno tuned by a pro import racer to get every hp out of my engine combo. When this is all said and done I will post some pics of the motor.


Freddy
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:52 AM
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what company is building your crank?
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:46 PM
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i'm willing to bet the valve to piston inferrence is pretty close. not 2zz close but at such high compression it'll be damn close. so for you to run a stroker kit you'll need lower comp pistons which will pretty much make f/i the only thing for you..
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:13 PM
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Default 2.0 rotating assembly

KangaRod
Iam not going to say which company is making it. You guys will know when it hits the market for sale.

hotbox05 As for the valve kissing the piston the shorter rod will give me the clearance I need, I haven't talked to the crank company yet but I don't see any reason to lower the comp on the pistons. I could run the ones with vavle relief cut into the piston for more clearance.

I only thing Iam worried about is the rod ratio, I need a much shorter rod if I want a 2.0 or 1.8 stroke. In the end it will be up to the crank company to make this work, how they do it I don't really care just give me my 2.0 stroke. I will settle for 1.8 but that's is small as I will go.

Freddy
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:41 PM
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Default Re: 2.0 rotating assembly

Originally Posted by Freddy
KangaRod
Iam not going to say which company is making it. You guys will know when it hits the market for sale.

hotbox05 As for the valve kissing the piston the shorter rod will give me the clearance I need, I haven't talked to the crank company yet but I don't see any reason to lower the comp on the pistons. I could run the ones with vavle relief cut into the piston for more clearance.

I only thing Iam worried about is the rod ratio, I need a much shorter rod if I want a 2.0 or 1.8 stroke. In the end it will be up to the crank company to make this work, how they do it I don't really care just give me my 2.0 stroke. I will settle for 1.8 but that's is small as I will go.

Freddy
You have to run a lower compression in order for the block/pistons to handle your shots of n.o.s. Not to mention, what are you doing about your ecu? The stock ecu won't be able to properly map out everything you plan on doing. You can't just reprogram it, because with a 64bit its extremely hard to remap correctly. Theres no replacement ecu's that can work with us yet, and universal kits rarely work correctly. What about timing? Also, what are you doing about your fuel mix and cams? Theres a crap load of stuff for you to do before you can even consider doing what you are wanting to do.

You'll settle for a 1.8 vs. 2.0? YOu do realize how big of a stroke .5l is on a small motor? With all the money spent, you might as well buy a 1zz and stroke it to a 2.0 vs. 1.5 to 2.0. You need to start caring if you want your motor to run with all this you are doing.

If it were easy, there would be a good handful of us with stroked 1nz's, including myself.

Cya
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Old 11-25-2005, 08:52 PM
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Default Re: 2.0 rotating assembly

Originally Posted by Freddy
KangaRod
Iam not going to say which company is making it. You guys will know when it hits the market for sale.
Then you will understand why everyone knows you are lieing.
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:19 PM
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Default Re: 2.0 rotating assembly

Originally Posted by KangaRod
Originally Posted by Freddy
KangaRod
Iam not going to say which company is making it. You guys will know when it hits the market for sale.
Then you will understand why everyone knows you are lieing.
Not to mention the fact that hes not knowledgable enough to know what hes talking about. Plus, no mechanic/"engine guy" would suggest modding a intake to force fit a new filter or anything. There is too many errors that can happen to risk doing something like that. And if something did happen, they would be at fault.

Freddy, show us proof or otherwise forget "keeping everybody updated" because no one is going to believe, maybe some newbies but the way you talk you sound like a newbie. No offense, but you do.

If you really want to stroke or swap motors, ask us for help. We are here to help you if you get rid of the bs.

Cya
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:24 PM
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Default Whatever

Kangarod;

The only reason I don't say who it is because it's my engine guys friend. I don't want any dummies calling up and wasting his time and annoying him on the phone.

Turns out that going to the shorter rod kills the gain in the stroke. I could try to stay with the stock size rods but that means the pin will be far up in the piston then you have a oil control problem.

Forget that, Iam going with the stock crank, aebs sleeved block, aebs ross forged pistons, aebs forged rods and bump my nitrous from 50 to 150. plus port the head and blitz s/c intake and make a ram air for my ame cold air intake, then dyno tune the set up.

PS: You do not have to lower the comp on the pistons to run nos, cams will be stock, my engine guy said the nitrous will be fine with stock ecu and the piggyback blitz ecu. I have a 255lph fuel pump, ford fuel injectors 320cc and aeromotive fpr and perrin fuel rail and a return style line line.

Freddy
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:32 PM
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Default Re: Whatever

Originally Posted by Freddy
Kangarod;

The only reason I don't say who it is because it's my engine guys friend. I don't want any dummies calling up and wasting his time and annoying him on the phone.

Turns out that going to the shorter rod kills the gain in the stroke. I could try to stay with the stock size rods but that means the pin will be far up in the piston then you have a oil control problem.

Forget that, Iam going with the stock crank, aebs sleeved block, aebs ross forged pistons, aebs forged rods and bump my nitrous from 50 to 150. plus port the head and blitz s/c intake and make a ram air for my ame cold air intake, then dyno tune the set up.

PS: You do not have to lower the comp on the pistons to run nos, cams will be stock, my engine guy said the nitrous will be fine with stock ecu and the piggyback blitz ecu. I have a 255lph fuel pump, ford fuel injectors 320cc and aeromotive fpr and perrin fuel rail and a return style line line.

Freddy
Your engine guy has no idea what hes talking about. Good luck running 150shot on stock ecu programming. Don't need to lower compression for boost + nitrous? Okay, lets see how long your motor lasts. Your guys friend wouldn't care if you gave out a company or a name, it would give him credit where credit is deserved if half of this is true. Not to mention, more income from others would help him, no? Yes. You do this set up, you are going to blow your motor in no time. Again, if half of this is true. Your engine guys have no idea what they are doing. Sorry, but they don't. You are better off doing it yourself. Either way, you get a blown motor. Good thing our 1nz can be bought cheap.

Cya
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:48 PM
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Killerromances

The intake is cut 2-3 inches shorter so now the filter points foward instead of down, next you install a cone style air filter that flows through the center and next cut out a inlet in your front air dam and make up a wire grill panel to fit into the opening. As far as what you believe thats on you but I will post photos and time slips when Iam done with this project. until then you will just have to wait. As for your newbie comment I have been drag racing nhra for the last 20 years in heavy street, mean street and top street.

Freddy
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddy
Killerromances

The intake is cut 2-3 inches shorter so now the filter points foward instead of down, next you install a cone style air filter that flows through the center and next cut out a inlet in your front air dam and make up a wire grill panel to fit into the opening. As far as what you believe thats on you but I will post photos and time slips when Iam done with this project. until then you will just have to wait. As for your newbie comment I have been drag racing nhra for the last 20 years in heavy street, mean street and top street.

Freddy
If this is true you would know you your "engine guy" has no idea what hes talking about. If this was also true, you would know the ecu wouldn't hold up, if you are using same size rod you would know all this tention is going to snap your rod, with your set up you would also realize you are going to have fuel mixture problems and leaks more than likely less than a month of driving this. Not only that, your 20 years did nothing if you believe the box has the aerodynamics to pull off amazing times at the drag strip. The xb is not a drag queen, its high points are autocross and road courses. (track) Not drag strip. You can have all the power in the world, aerodynamics will do you harm. Not to mention, all the information you have provided with what your "engine guy" says is all newbie material. Nothing advance, and nothing makes sense. At least, when you look at it overall. Mean street and top street? Common.

Cya
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:25 PM
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dude. that motor wilkl die. 150 shot will make this motor die.


just get a stout motor and swap it into this car....

think zz or 4ag. hell go buck wild and try 3sgte.
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:07 AM
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Hotbox05;

With my ABES sleeved block and ABEs ross forged pistons and AEBS forged rods and arp bolts Iam not worried at all if by chance I blow this one up I will try to shoehorn in a s/c tc motor.

Freddy
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Freddy
Hotbox05;

With my ABES sleeved block and ABEs ross forged pistons and AEBS forged rods and arp bolts Iam not worried at all if by chance I blow this one up I will try to shoehorn in a s/c tc motor.

Freddy
2az will not fit in the current bay without significant amount of modification. In fact, it may not be possible without completely redoing existing frame. For a 1zz to work, you have to cut 2-3 inches from the frame and move firewall back slightly. Thats only a 1.8, you are talking about a 2.4? Get real.

And you will blow your motor, don't worry about that. You said so yourself the new rod is the same size as stock. That will snap in a heartbeat.

Cya
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Old 11-26-2005, 01:17 AM
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I was going to say something about the 'shorter' rods and it basically cancelling out a longer crank, but it looks like you corrected yourself on that one. As far as putting in a 2.4 tC motor....Good luck with it. I would rather try the 1ZZ as the intake and exhaust sides of the motor are on the same sides as the 1NZ. Whatever you do, good luck and I'll be shocked WHEN AND IF you get it done.

The funny thing on this WHOLE post is the original title was YOU asking about it and wanting to know how to do it, but as this thread gets longer, you continue to answer YOUR OWN questions...
If you already know this stuff, why did you start this topic? You and your "engine guy"seem to know all the answers....so why keep re-hashing? Just get it done and SHOW US! I mean, if you are just 'brainstorming', FINE, but try not to come on here wanting answers, then get shot down by others and then type in answers to the questions YOU were asking to try to prove evryone wrong! Everything you have stated gets shot down, but you always have an answer to come back with after they keep telling you it won't work. Seems weird, thats all! Good luck with it!
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Old 11-26-2005, 02:45 PM
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Default No more update posts until project is finished

Last post until my x/b is finished and out of the shop and running. Will have photos and timeslips so thats that.

As far as starting this post I was looking for a stroker kit. If I found out some info I would post to update and not to answer my own questions. But sometimes I did. As for getting shot down I just would post what step Iam at with my project.

If I had a dollar for Every time someone says it can't be done I would be rich, hey sometimes it won't work and you have to find out the hard way. but nobody would ever get any wild projects done if you stopped every time you heard that.

Freddy
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:29 PM
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Default Re: No more update posts until project is finished

Originally Posted by Freddy
Last post until my x/b is finished and out of the shop and running. Will have photos and timeslips so thats that.

As far as starting this post I was looking for a stroker kit. If I found out some info I would post to update and not to answer my own questions. But sometimes I did. As for getting shot down I just would post what step Iam at with my project.

If I had a dollar for Every time someone says it can't be done I would be rich, hey sometimes it won't work and you have to find out the hard way. but nobody would ever get any wild projects done if you stopped every time you heard that.

Freddy
Of course it can be done, but how your project is set up it will be done with a blown motor in no time. Have fun rebuilding the motor and have fun with that 2az swap, because that is not possible without major, major frame and body work.
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