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Electric fan not working..

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Old 08-26-2011 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Here:
should i check the blower resistor too??
Old 08-26-2011 | 11:16 PM
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What's the problem with the blower?
Old 08-26-2011 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
What's the problem with the blower?
nothing just didnt know if it had anything to do with it..i got a test light today when i get off of work tonight ill check that fan resistor and post back what i found thanks again for helpn me out
Old 08-27-2011 | 01:04 AM
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Here is the radiator fan diagram: http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...adCondFans.pdf

If the fan comes on with no problems when you turn on the A/C but never comes on when the engine starts to overheat, then the only 2 things that can cause that are bad contacts inside Relay #2 or bad fan resistor. Assuming all the wires are connected and intact.
It's possible to have bad ECU or Temp sensor but that rarely happens and would normally turn on the Check Engine Light on.
Make sure the coolant level is OK inside the system, not just reservoir.
Old 08-27-2011 | 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Here is the radiator fan diagram: http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...adCondFans.pdf

If the fan comes on with no problems when you turn on the A/C but never comes on when the engine starts to overheat, then the only 2 things that can cause that are bad contacts inside Relay #2 or bad fan resistor. Assuming all the wires are connected and intact.
It's possible to have bad ECU or Temp sensor but that rarely happens and would normally turn on the Check Engine Light on.
Make sure the coolant level is OK inside the system, not just reservoir.
All fulids are good when I unplugged the #2 fan relay the ac fan won't turn so I thought it was the #1 fan relay that does the coolant I unplugged that and used the horn relay that's the same as #1 4 prong and the #2 relay is a 6 prong
Old 08-27-2011 | 01:59 AM
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Just probe the socket for the Relay#2 with the test light. If you have ground at terminal #4 then the fan resistor must be OK.
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Here is the radiator fan diagram: http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2004...adCondFans.pdf

If the fan comes on with no problems when you turn on the A/C but never comes on when the engine starts to overheat, then the only 2 things that can cause that are bad contacts inside Relay #2 or bad fan resistor. Assuming all the wires are connected and intact.
It's possible to have bad ECU or Temp sensor but that rarely happens and would normally turn on the Check Engine Light on.
Make sure the coolant level is OK inside the system, not just reservoir.
I unpluggeg the fan resistor and with a test light I get nothing in the relays #1 and 2 I get 2 lights on with test but no power to fan resistor????? Relays look good
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Just probe the socket for the Relay#2 with the test light. If you have ground at terminal #4 then the fan resistor must be OK.
Can you rexplain in new to this
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:47 AM
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Ok just unpluged the coolant temp senor and the fan kicked on does that mean the senors is bad?
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:47 AM
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Can you just do what i suggested in post #26? You are not looking for power- you need to see ground. That means the alligator clip on the test light needs to be on the positive battery terminal and once you touch #4 pin on the socket for the relay #2 with the test light's tip the light should come on.
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Can you just do what i suggested in post #26? You are not looking for power- you need to see ground. That means the alligator clip on the test light needs to be on the positive battery terminal and once you touch #4 pin on the socket for the relay #2 with the test light's tip the light should come on.
We are also getting a ground on #1 from the top too? But we unpluged the temp sensor and the fan kicked on we replugged the temp sensor and the fan stop now I got trac and engine lights on
Old 08-27-2011 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hardlucktattoo
We are also getting a ground on #1 from the top too?
I don't think so. #1 terminal will have power from the fuse- not ground. All pins on the relay are marked with numbers. Make sure you are referencing them to their correct terminals on the relay's socket.
Old 08-27-2011 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
I don't think so. #1 terminal will have power from the fuse- not ground. All pins on the relay are marked with numbers. Make sure you are referencing them to their correct terminals on the relay's socket.
Ok we got ground on 4,3,2 on rely #2
Old 08-27-2011 | 03:26 AM
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Then i don't think you have electrical problem. If you disconnected the temp sensor and the fan kicked in- that's how it's supposed to work. Are you sure your car actually overheats? The cap may be bad so the coolant may be coming out because of that. If you hold RPM at about 2K for few minutes i think the fan will be on.
Old 08-27-2011 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Then i don't think you have electrical problem. If you disconnected the temp sensor and the fan kicked in- that's how it's supposed to work. Are you sure your car actually overheats? The cap may be bad so the coolant may be coming out because of that. If you hold RPM at about 2K for few minutes i think the fan will be on.
Well the top 2 raditor hoses leak after about 10 to 15 mins of stand still and the fan never kicks on plus now that I replugged the temp sensor in I got light trac and engine...
Old 08-27-2011 | 04:05 AM
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IDK, since you probably have no way of testing the sensor may be just replace it and see what happens.
Old 08-27-2011 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
IDK, since you probably have no way of testing the sensor may be just replace it and see what happens.
Ok cool we used the test light to check the wire on the end of the temp sensor and there's nothing and now that I'm gettn engine light it must be it ill try to repace it sunday and ill post and I really thank you for your help reactor I'm just new to the xb and just got it making sure its cool before I drive it I don't need to replace the motor lol
Old 08-27-2011 | 04:17 AM
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Sensor gets only 5 Volts from ECU when the key is on, so that's not something you would check with the test light that needs 12 Volts.
You can disconnect battery for few minutes to turn off the warning lights on the dash.
Old 08-27-2011 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Reactor
Sensor gets only 5 Volts from ECU when the key is on, so that's not something you would check with the test light that needs 12 Volts.
You can disconnect battery for few minutes to turn off the warning lights on the dash.
So whit everything we talked about what would you say the problem is?
Old 08-27-2011 | 05:05 PM
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Without knowing the engine temperature i can't make any guesses. But your hose clamps are loose. Hoses shouldn't leak no matter what.


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