flywheel
#1
flywheel
anyone ever used a lightend flywheel befor? i was wonderng i it makes a diff becuase if it dose il replace it when i upgrade my cluctch? and also anyone know if a header from a echo will work on a xa?
#2
lightened flywheel might be too light for our cars, but one that's 4-5 pounds lighter might be ok. i know JUN makes one.
it will make it harder to drive in traffic, but will help acceleration probably. i had a lightened flywheel on my wrx.
echo header will work on the xA. www.elprototypes.com has them for a good price, ceramic coated too.
it will make it harder to drive in traffic, but will help acceleration probably. i had a lightened flywheel on my wrx.
echo header will work on the xA. www.elprototypes.com has them for a good price, ceramic coated too.
#4
What is the proper procedure for flywheel break-in? I have never heard of that before... I mean, the pressure plate and clutch would need a break-in period so the friction surfaces can mate, but why would the flywheel need a break-in?
Darren
Darren
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
A lot of people don't change their clutch when they change the flywheel. (Every customer that we had here has never installed a new clutch with the new flywheel.) So in order for these assemblies to work properly there is a small break in period, No racing and simple driving for about 40-50 miles. Its like when you change your rotors to cross drilled some guys don't change the pads. Thus a vibrating can happen.
#7
flywheels don't have a "break-in" period per se'
but if you don't break in the clutch disc properly,
you may experience some of the symptoms that stylis describes...
you can get it on ANY weight flywheel....
basically you get hot spots or glazing on the disc, pp, & flywheel surface.
hard, glossed spots that don't engage properly,
leading to the disc slipping or the pressure plate not engaging correctly.
this has nothing to do with a lightweight flywheel....nothing.
it's just like bedding in your brakes in correctly...
you'll end up with the same type of results.
some cheaply made aluminum flywheels can distort if you overheat them (see: drag racing & burnouts) or if you use a very high spring rate pressure plate.
but these are only ones that use sub standard alloys...
anything below a 6160 T6 grade will normally fall victom to some distortion...
some companies run the much more expensive 7075 but it may be overkill for the application.
another factor on aluminum flywheels is the type/quality of metal used for the friction surface...
many times it's a low grade steel that can distort, crack, warp, hotspot, glaze etc.
also, aluminum flytwheels have a steel friction surface, which is held on by fasteners...
sometimes a cheap knock-off or poorly produced product may have low grade hardware that can not stand up to the temps or loads that are needed to keep the assembly together.
chromoly flywheels are nice, but make sure to find out if it's only surface treated, or if the chromoly tempering is through the entire piece.
but if you don't break in the clutch disc properly,
you may experience some of the symptoms that stylis describes...
you can get it on ANY weight flywheel....
basically you get hot spots or glazing on the disc, pp, & flywheel surface.
hard, glossed spots that don't engage properly,
leading to the disc slipping or the pressure plate not engaging correctly.
this has nothing to do with a lightweight flywheel....nothing.
it's just like bedding in your brakes in correctly...
you'll end up with the same type of results.
some cheaply made aluminum flywheels can distort if you overheat them (see: drag racing & burnouts) or if you use a very high spring rate pressure plate.
but these are only ones that use sub standard alloys...
anything below a 6160 T6 grade will normally fall victom to some distortion...
some companies run the much more expensive 7075 but it may be overkill for the application.
another factor on aluminum flywheels is the type/quality of metal used for the friction surface...
many times it's a low grade steel that can distort, crack, warp, hotspot, glaze etc.
also, aluminum flytwheels have a steel friction surface, which is held on by fasteners...
sometimes a cheap knock-off or poorly produced product may have low grade hardware that can not stand up to the temps or loads that are needed to keep the assembly together.
chromoly flywheels are nice, but make sure to find out if it's only surface treated, or if the chromoly tempering is through the entire piece.
#9
do you know of any flywheel out rightnow that are of good quality and will last a long time with no problume? i have about 5 grand to put into it so i want to make it as fast as posible but keeping it as reeliable as i got it. do all echo upgrades work since they use the same moter? could i use a tubro for a echo on a scion or are there diffs between the moters?
#10
Originally Posted by ItsMrWells
do you know of any flywheel out rightnow that are of good quality and will last a long time with no problume? i have about 5 grand to put into it so i want to make it as fast as posible but keeping it as reeliable as i got it. do all echo upgrades work since they use the same moter? could i use a tubro for a echo on a scion or are there diffs between the moters?
MOST of the echo parts can be used for the scion. I drive the echo and since we share the same engine and drivetrain, there should be no problems changing the parts. The only place where there might be some problems would be with the suspension because of differing weights, widths etc. but other than that you should be kool. oh yah, I wanna thank the scion population because you actually have brought a performance line for the under appreciated echos!
#13
It could also be the exhaust or something else under the car rattling, but its weird that I only hear the noise when the gears are engaged. Clutch chatter would be accompanied by excess vibration and/or shaking, which is a symptom
I do not have. I also have a rattling noise coming from inside the back of the car somewhere near or on the hatch. The dealer says the factory installed clutch and engine does not have/need a breaking in period.
I do not have. I also have a rattling noise coming from inside the back of the car somewhere near or on the hatch. The dealer says the factory installed clutch and engine does not have/need a breaking in period.
#14
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by moish
It could also be the exhaust or something else under the car rattling, but its weird that I only hear the noise when the gears are engaged. Clutch chatter would be accompanied by excess vibration and/or shaking, which is a symptom
I do not have. I also have a rattling noise coming from inside the back of the car somewhere near or on the hatch. The dealer says the factory installed clutch and engine does not have/need a breaking in period.
I do not have. I also have a rattling noise coming from inside the back of the car somewhere near or on the hatch. The dealer says the factory installed clutch and engine does not have/need a breaking in period.
#17
I think JUN has closed its office in US, so that maybe the reason why it's being delayed.......My friend used to work there, and my buddy had an account with them until their US office closed down.
#18
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Originally Posted by kagero79
I think JUN has closed its office in US, so that maybe the reason why it's being delayed.......My friend used to work there, and my buddy had an account with them until their US office closed down.
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