A MUST mod for manual tranny - Redline MT-90
05-13-2008, 04:17 AM
#87
Originally Posted by INFINI
Great discovery! 
Sorry for not reading every post for 5pages but is there an Auto Trans solution as well that will have the same/similar results??
Sorry for not reading every post for 5pages but is there an Auto Trans solution as well that will have the same/similar results??
05-25-2008, 10:56 PM
#89
Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 633
So I just got done doing this mod.
Very easy to do. As the picture above shows. Just undo the sensor(24mm), Then undo the drain plug at the bottom back of the tranny(24mm also). Make sure you keep the washer with the drain plug.
I used a one and a half foot chunk of 3/8" rubber feul line and a small funnel. No mess at all.
2 quarts for the first gen xb and xa with manual tranny.
Will drive around here in an hour and see if I can feel some difference.
Very easy to do. As the picture above shows. Just undo the sensor(24mm), Then undo the drain plug at the bottom back of the tranny(24mm also). Make sure you keep the washer with the drain plug.
I used a one and a half foot chunk of 3/8" rubber feul line and a small funnel. No mess at all.
2 quarts for the first gen xb and xa with manual tranny.
Will drive around here in an hour and see if I can feel some difference.
06-11-2008, 01:16 AM
#93
Originally Posted by Gothbox
Originally Posted by zgoo
man i need to get this done!
07-15-2008, 08:01 PM
#95
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Los Angeles County
Posts: 2,627
Just finished mine.
I saw no need to drop the plastic pan. you can easily get at the fill plug with the pan in place, even without putting the car on ramps.
I can't see the point of going through the reverse switch as it is harder to get to than the fill plug and you can't check the fluid level when you are done. I don't like to disturb electrics that don't have to be disturbed.
Both fill and drain are nominally 24mm, but a 15/16" SAE socket is a better fit on the hex. I use a six-point socket as the plugs have rounded hexes on them. You can't use an open-end wrench on the drain plug.
For those who are having trouble orienting themselves, the drain plug is on the lowest point of the transmission, directly below the left axle shaft. To find the fill plug go forward and up the front of the transmission case a few inches.
There is some debate over service specs for the oil.
Everybody agrees with 75W90 it seems.
The manual recommends either GL5 or GL4
The service manual recommends GL3! :?
Somebody from Scion earlier in this thread recommended GL4
Now, synchronizer erosion is an issue in some older transmissions, such as VW beetles, that were built when GL-4 was king of the hill. I find it hard to believe that a modern Toyota would be designed with corrosion-prone synchros. I'm wondering if the real problem with older cars has been misapplied to modern cars...
In any case, I used Mobil1 synthetic 75W90 GL5 and I'll see how it goes. I don't expect to see any change in the shifting because the cable-operated shifter is so vague that any improvement in the box will be hidden by the linkage. It's a pity that Toyota can't design a shifter that shifts at least as well as my 40-year-old VW!
If you want a magnetic drain plug it is easy to accomplish. Get a strong neodymium magnet and stick it to the end of the drain plug. This magnetizes the entire drain plug!
I saw no need to drop the plastic pan. you can easily get at the fill plug with the pan in place, even without putting the car on ramps.
I can't see the point of going through the reverse switch as it is harder to get to than the fill plug and you can't check the fluid level when you are done. I don't like to disturb electrics that don't have to be disturbed.
Both fill and drain are nominally 24mm, but a 15/16" SAE socket is a better fit on the hex. I use a six-point socket as the plugs have rounded hexes on them. You can't use an open-end wrench on the drain plug.
For those who are having trouble orienting themselves, the drain plug is on the lowest point of the transmission, directly below the left axle shaft. To find the fill plug go forward and up the front of the transmission case a few inches.
There is some debate over service specs for the oil.
Everybody agrees with 75W90 it seems.
The manual recommends either GL5 or GL4
The service manual recommends GL3! :?
Somebody from Scion earlier in this thread recommended GL4
Now, synchronizer erosion is an issue in some older transmissions, such as VW beetles, that were built when GL-4 was king of the hill. I find it hard to believe that a modern Toyota would be designed with corrosion-prone synchros. I'm wondering if the real problem with older cars has been misapplied to modern cars...
In any case, I used Mobil1 synthetic 75W90 GL5 and I'll see how it goes. I don't expect to see any change in the shifting because the cable-operated shifter is so vague that any improvement in the box will be hidden by the linkage. It's a pity that Toyota can't design a shifter that shifts at least as well as my 40-year-old VW!
If you want a magnetic drain plug it is easy to accomplish. Get a strong neodymium magnet and stick it to the end of the drain plug. This magnetizes the entire drain plug!
07-25-2008, 09:21 PM
#97
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Los Angeles County
Posts: 2,627
I've gone 1000 miles since the oil change and as predicted there is no change in the shifting at all. Danged cables!
Noise level may be a little lower, but then again it might just be wishful thinking. No marked difference.
Noise level may be a little lower, but then again it might just be wishful thinking. No marked difference.
08-20-2008, 12:34 AM
#100
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,961
i did the redline and i saw no improvement what so ever but with the cor-sport metal shifter bushings now thats a bigest improvement since i installed the trd quick shift!!! btw i still grind my gears every once 'n' while