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I spoke too soon...
My brother (the mechanic) has a "mechanics stethoscope" and took a listen to the engine noise. The sound is coming from the Alternator... again!
Apparently the belt was too tight and caused too much stress on the bearing, making it wear out prematurely. So... it's back to the mechanic to have it fixed under warranty.
I took the xB to Bob, my trusted family mechanic and he found that the rattle was indeed coming from the water pump. He verified this by removing the belts. He turned it by hand it made noise and felt a little loose, so it's possible the internal bearings are worn.
So... the box car is getting a: new water pump and Toyota super long life (pink) coolant.
Total damage $240.
Question:
About a year ago around 60K, the temperature sensor went bad and I changed it . A mechanic recommended changing the radiator fluid, but he used the regular green coolant. Could that green coolant have damaged the water pump by causing it to wear prematurely?
... the rattle was indeed coming from the water pump.... the box car is getting a: new water pump, thermostat, and Toyota super long life (pink) coolant...
About a year ago around 60K, the temperature sensor went bad and I changed it . A mechanic recommended changing the radiator fluid, but he used the regular green coolant.Could that green coolant have damaged the water pump by causing it to wear prematurely?...
No, the green coolant would not have the extreme long corrosion-protecting life of the pink Super Long Life coolant, but could not have caused any problem with the water pump in whatever miles you went in one year. The original water pump would have gone bad regardless of what coolant was used.
No, the green coolant would not have the extreme long corrosion-protecting life of the pink Super Long Life coolant, but could not have caused any problem with the water pump in whatever miles you went in one year. The original water pump would have gone bad regardless of what coolant was used.
Thanks for the info Vintage42, good to know!
When I picked up the xB at the shop, the mechanic showed me that the bad water pump was leaking out of the "weep hole" and it had a build up of dried coolant and dirt on the outside.
Now that I know where this is, I will inspect the water pump on a regular basis, but will have to remove the passengers side front tire and engine cover to see it.
Hi, my Scion 2004 xB had a throttle problem. I drove for 10 years and never clean that part. Recently I replace my A/C compressor and condenser. The Engine start and had about 650 RPM (revolution per minute).
Then in parking the RPM is at 800. When using A/C no RPM changes. Took about 3 Hours to remove the throttle clean and install back.
The 12 millimeter deep socket is a must. I discover that the throttle was stuck in one position. Semi-open all the time. I removed that part (throttle), and clean with odorless mineral spirits.
Inside was a black color dirty oily solution in semi-solid state. Also to this part the red color coolant have to go inside to warm-up the elements?
After cleaning, the car now have a better behavior. Now, if the engine is cold, on parking the RPM gets to 1,500, until the engine gets hot. Then gets lower to 750 RPM(s). Each time the A/C compressor is start working the RPM goes up. Then goes back to 750 RPM(s).
I need to drive more to find out if there is other behavior of the RPM engine. At 3,250 RPM (s) like 85 Miles/hour, some engine noise go (is lower/acceptable), or is changing the frequency so is much better sound. By working on this car I find that the body is lower than other cars.
A short mechanic will enjoy more than a tall one.
Here in the picture, I can not remove the gas pedal cable for some reasons.
To easy open the screws I use Paint Thinner.
This is the throttle open. Here I use a small brush to clean the interior side. On the top area the coolant goes from one side to other.
Those pipes was extremely clogged with rust inside. I even do not know if was a liquid interior circulation before cleaning.
I try many chemicals to clean, restore and improve the interior throttle condition.
Hi, my Scion 2004 xB had a throttle problem. I drove for 10 years and never clean that part. Recently I replace my A/C compressor and condenser. The Engine start and had about 650 RPM (revolution per minute).
Then in parking the RPM is at 800. When using A/C no RPM changes. Took about 3 Hours to remove the throttle clean and install back.
The 12 millimeter deep socket is a must. I discover that the throttle was stuck in one position. Semi-open all the time. I removed that part (throttle), and clean with odorless mineral spirits.
Inside was a black color dirty oily solution in semi-solid state. Also to this part the red color coolant have to go inside to warm-up the elements?
After cleaning, the car now have a better behavior. Now, if the engine is cold, on parking the RPM gets to 1,500, until the engine gets hot. Then gets lower to 750 RPM(s). Each time the A/C compressor is start working the RPM goes up. Then goes back to 750 RPM(s).
I need to drive more to find out if there is other behavior of the RPM engine. At 3,250 RPM (s) like 85 Miles/hour, some engine noise go (is lower/acceptable), or is changing the frequency so is much better sound. By working on this car I find that the body is lower than other cars. ______
Hey have you cleaned your MAF/air temp sensor lately?
@mrrcom Hi, Last year I get a new MAF/air sensor. The little bolts that hold the sensor get fast rusty. When was replace the MAF sensor I felt how the engine change his behavior (RPM s). Also I replace the temperature engine sensor. This was located on the engine driver side wall. The old temperature sensor was made with cheap copper. That Cooper was badly corroded. I check today in the morning the oil. Was changed recently. The oil level is OK, the color is getting brown color for some reasons. It is possible that the oil detergent is cleaning the engine interior walls. Need oil change. The radiator is low in coolant like one table spoon. Today driving to the USPS store, I felt other challenge. The engine RPM in parking start with 1250 rpm (on blue light color on display). Then drop to 750 rpm (on red light color on display). The exhaust gasses have no color, no smell, no visible smoke (from tailpipe). Outside temperature was 87 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Scion xB first generation body looks perfect. If we add oxygen to the engine the exhaust will get the color red.
There is a (kit motor and battery) an electric engine to replace the gas engine? Those gas engines seems to need a lot of maintenance...
Thank you.
@mrrcom Hi, Last year I get a new MAF/air sensor. The little bolts that hold the sensor get fast rusty. When was replace the MAF sensor I felt how the engine change his behavior (RPM s). Also I replace the temperature engine sensor. This was located on the engine driver side wall. The old temperature sensor was made with cheap copper. That Cooper was badly corroded. I check today in the morning the oil. Was changed recently. The oil level is OK, the color is getting brown color for some reasons. It is possible that the oil detergent is cleaning the engine interior walls. Need oil change. The radiator is low in coolant like one table spoon. Today driving to the USPS store, I felt other challenge. The engine RPM in parking start with 1250 rpm (on blue light color on display). Then drop to 750 rpm (on red light color on display). The exhaust gasses have no color, no smell, no visible smoke (from tailpipe). Outside temperature was 87 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Scion xB first generation body looks perfect. If we add oxygen to the engine the exhaust will get the color red.
There is a (kit motor and battery) an electric engine to replace the gas engine? Those gas engines seems to need a lot of maintenance...
Thank you.
You are seeing the red temperature light come on? I think that is when it is overheating. I've never seen this light come on and it got to like 99F here a bit ago. How is your thermostat? Radiator fan?
There is a lot of floor space for batteries I'll tell ya. I took out my rear seats for more cargo room and the floor is very flat. Maybe you could make a Tesla Killer xB.
@mrrcom, Hi, I fix that red light. Now is just blue color light and no light (meaning that the engine working at the wanted/needed temperature). Still is something that I am not sure about the RPM.
If the engine is running in parking speed, the RPM are varies for too many reasons. Like for: 1) Front Radiator fun. When is turn on and off I got a small variation in RPM. 2) If the A/C is working. Each time is ON or OFF the RPM(s) are getting little high or low. 3) When I am in Drive and hit a red color stop light (traffic sign), I stop the car. First the RPM go to 450, the battery go to 12.3 Volt then the RPM moves in about one second to 750 RPM, and the Battery voltage go to 13.8 Volts.
The only thing that I not replace is the Air Filter (the white color / rectangular shape). I will do this on Tuesday (4 August 2020) when I will have the full synthetic oil change.
@mrrcom, Hi, I fix that red light. Now is just blue color light and no light (meaning that the engine working at the wanted/needed temperature). Still is something that I am not sure about the RPM.
If the engine is running in parking speed, the RPM are varies for too many reasons. Like for: 1) Front Radiator fun. When is turn on and off I got a small variation in RPM. 2) If the A/C is working. Each time is ON or OFF the RPM(s) are getting little high or low. 3) When I am in Drive and hit a red color stop light (traffic sign), I stop the car. First the RPM go to 450, the battery go to 12.3 Volt then the RPM moves in about one second to 750 RPM, and the Battery voltage go to 13.8 Volts.
The only thing that I not replace is the Air Filter (the white color / rectangular shape). I will do this on Tuesday (4 August 2020) when I will have the full synthetic oil change.
Thank you.
When I didn't route the tubes going from the crankcase breather and the PCV correctly the RPMs would wildly fluctuate up and down taking it out of gear going to a red light. I'm kind of wondering if your engine is losing compression. While the car is idling if you take the oil cap off and feel if any air is being blown out?
Also on my car if you turn on any accessory the rpms would fluctuate maybe 250- 500 rpm and then level off.
Okay, here's another rattle. This one is in the engine, I believe in the area of the drive belt, water pump, A/C compressor, etc. The dealer has acknowledged hearing it, at 2000rpm-2250 rpm only. It is worse when it's hot outside, but the A/C has not much to do with it. It first happened in winter, at 12K miles. Now I've got 17K and it's still there after the dealer looked at it 2 times. A belt tension adjustment, a new motor mount (cartalk show would laugh at that one!) . . . then the story from Scion's tech line that until it gets possibly worse, there's nothing to do about it. If the mechanics knew something about noises, I'm certain they could fix it. My option is to go to a private mechanic who would at least tell me something other than "other xb's on the lot do it too" . . . or "we don't hear the noise, I just hear the exhaust note" . . . and such. Then the ridiculous phone calls after the dealer sends it home "95% certain it's gone" . . . so it goes on. Does anybody experience this same thing with their xB? Go out and listen, it's a subtle "rattle" type noise at the 2000 rpm range that happens under normal load, but not as easily when under low load such as going downhill, or driving out of overdrive. What is up??!!! Oh, my car is Blue Onyx Pearl, I'm sure the dealer would say it happens because of the color . . . . . . my response was "fix it or pay my mechanic to fix it, eh?"
I have that same problem. I had the bad squealing but I fixed that all by myself. I had the rattle then too. So I know it's not related to the squeal. ANY time my rpm's hit 2k, it's a quick ticking/rattling and it will persist if I keep the car idled at 2k. Almost like a fan blade on high hitting the side/front of the encasement but ONLY at 2k
2006 xb 220k miles and still kicking
@jefo, mentioned that the dealer find the problem. It is the A/C compressor. In my car (Scion xB 2004 -first generation) in the past year I replace for noise related problem: all belts, the A/C compressor, front fan radiator, suspension nuts and the red color rubber, alternator, engine mounts (x3), resonator and exhaust.
Tomorrow I will be driving to a Junkyard in Pennsylvania. There is a Scion xB first generation on Thundercloud Metallic color (Silver) with a front damage. I was told that for $150 I can get the rear bumper. Will include the lips and the left and right reinforcement bumper. So this is my last piece that will eliminate all the noises (I wish). @SavageKing, you can replace yourself the A/C compressor if the Dealer find that this is your problem. I did this work replacement myself with basic tools and with this website moral support.
07-26-2010 | 06:27 AM
. . . then the story from Scion's tech line that until it gets possibly worse, there's nothing to do about it. If the mechanics knew something about noises, I'm certain they could fix it. My option is to go to a private mechanic who would at least tell me something other than "other xb's on the lot do it too" 
. . . so it goes on. Does anybody experience this same thing with their xB? Go out and listen, it's a subtle "rattle" type noise at the 2000 rpm range that happens under normal load, but not as easily when under low load such as going downhill, or driving out of overdrive. What is up??!!! Oh, my car is Blue Onyx Pearl, I'm sure the dealer would say it happens because of the color . . . 
