Is there anything wrong with say a gap somewhere in between .32 and .44.

Such as .35 or .37?

Is it a happy medium?

 

Yeah that should be no problem - allows for wear . . . eventually there would be some wear. Just make sure you keep then gapped the same or else it can affect the firing timing of the spark to the individual cylinders. A slight larger gap will delay the spark a little bit more because it takes a fraction of a second longer for the voltage to rise high enough to jump the gap. Mine ended up being about 0.043" measured with a circular ramp type spark plug gap gauge.

 

I installed a set yesterday. I picked them up at Schuck's for $32.00.
The car started fine, ran smoothly, had a slightly lower idle. I did not test them out on the road too much, I will do so today on my way into work.
I left them gapped as they were in the box. After reading some information off the NGK website I figured I would stick to the factory gap.
One thing I will say is that everyone has a preference as to the plugs they like. I have had good luck in general with NGK and will stick with them due to the past history.
Thanks for all the tips and installs in the tech section. It really helps knowing that someone cared enough to take the time and detail the steps so we all can enjoy our rides.

 

If anyone is interested, I have a brand new set going for $30 shipped in the classifieds. Let me know as I LOVE mine!

 

So, half a tank later here is what I have observed.
Mileage remained the same, about 36 MPG.
Idle is still slightly lower.
RPM at 60 still about 2800.
Warm up time. It seemed the box warmed up quicker. My early morning temps hover around 28 degrees here, and the box did warm up quicker.

Now, are all of these related? I am not sure. As I said in my opening sentence, just what I observed. After I run them for 30K then I will know if they truly are worth the price difference over the copper NGK's.

 

so are these the correct spark plugs that are set to .044 gap....BKR6EIX-11

THIS FIRST SITE DOESNT MENTION IT BUT SEE THAT CORRECT ITEM NUMBER

http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=2036288


This site clearly states its set to .044 gap

http://www.customcarscentral.com/ngk...-scion-tc.html

are they the samething

 

Is there any special procedure to replacing the battery? I am asking because the book warns of the airbag going off when disconnecting the battery (and not waiting 90 seconds?). What happens to your odometer? Does the car remember the readings?

 

So what about the NGK Iridium IX BKR5EIX-11, stock No. 5464? Is it the correct part number? On amazon.com, it said the part did not fit the car. The one that fits, according to the seller, is NGK Iridium IX BKR5EIX (i.e. without the 11). Does the 11 simply denote the .044 gap or something else entirely?

 

The -11 indicates the .044 gap, and it's a popular plug (at least here) for the xB. I put them in my 2006 at 30,000 miles last month.

Here is a good DIY thread:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/maintenance-car-care-1604/spark-plug-change-16364/

 

Just remember to un do the negative post first then last when reinstalling it. Zero risk of airbags going off when changing out your battery.

 

how much did you pay for all four?

 

got my wife's '06 xA with 32k miles. Started using amsoil synthetic in the crankcase and manual transmission, and installed NGK iridium plugs. Have had no problems, and she averages 36mpg driving 95% highway. I do 10k mile drain intervals on the oil, btw.

 

I realize I'm a little late to the party here but maybe someone will find this thread as useful as I did.

My 06 box seemed to be losing (lost) the zip that it had at 0-30k miles. The last thing I thought of was the plugs but reading this string last night got me thinking. I needed to change the oil out anyway so I thought we'd go all out and get some plugs.

Went to autozone and got the NGK GP 7090s for $3 each. I realize that many here have upped to iridium but I couldn't justify the cost for what many have said were minimal gains. Anyway, the plugs were original and after taking off the plastic shroud and removing the 'boots' and removing plugs, it looked like it was definitely PAST time to replace. The plugs were at about 0.055 that came out of the head. New ones were at 0.040. I got it all back together in about 10 minutes and took it out for a spin.

Noticeable improvement! I'm now at 2500 rpms while cruising at 60 as opposed to 3000 rpm at 60 w/ the old plugs. Smoother, lower idle when parked. More pep. Seems to stay in 1st gear longer, 2nd longer, etc. when accelerating. Think the $12 investment is paying off.

I'm not going to tell my wife I did anything and see if she notices (her daily driver). Interested to see if the mileage increases, too. We've been at 27.5-32.5 mpg this summer in mixed driving. At 31.5 for the entire 53000 miles thus far.

p.o.

 

Why did you wait so long? You could have been saving gas for awhile. The stock plugs were lame and the Irridiums are the poop. Next time go for Irridiums and then you won't have to worry about them for a long time. Plus they hold their gaps forever it seems.

 

Zombie post from the dead!

Have not been here a lot lately, but the box is still kickin' it just fine! 71.8k, 2nd set of Falkens, worn and ready for another set real soon, 4th set of front pads (original rears!), replace the battery with a DieHard Platinum @ 5 years just because.

Wanted to post a pic of the Iridium plugs after (oops!) 41.8k mikes. No, not 41.8k on the odo, but on the plugs themselves. Installed 1/20/08 (see first post) with about 30k on the clock. Still ran fine, started great, no issues. Scion tough-Scion quality!

You can see the wear on the side electrode especially. Even the Iridium tip is worn because it is so much thinner and the end is not sharp and square any more. Unless the newest version sports a thicker center electrode.

NGK Iridium - Part no. BKR5EIX-11. Comes factory gapped at .044. The worn ones have to be at least .055 or .060!

Anyways, nice to drop in again and post up!

Robert