Over Heating and then some.......
11-17-2007 | 11:01 PM
#21
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From: Dundalk, Maryland
Do the poor mans check if you are building up presure in the radiator leave the cap loose then check the temp.
Sounds like combustion is leaking into the coolent.
Also with the radiator full does it bubble like it is boiling looking into the neck with the cap off?
Scott?
Sounds like combustion is leaking into the coolent.
Also with the radiator full does it bubble like it is boiling looking into the neck with the cap off?
Scott?
11-17-2007 | 11:42 PM
#22
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From: Richmond, VA
All sound like great ideas. Could be the radiator is clogged or timming is off.
I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.
I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.
11-18-2007 | 04:32 AM
#23
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From: Forest Park
Originally Posted by street_TSE_lethal
if it aint the head, if it aint the fans, if it ain't a cylinder
problem, you sure your purging all the air out during the
radiator, cap, water pump, etc.,. even a small air pocket will
expand and blow out, if it aint that, then recheck when the
fans are coming on and off, a bad temp sensor telling the
PCM when to duty the fans may be the problem, do you have
a scanner, live data the temp sensor, compare to a laser
temp sensor readings you take at the thermostat housing, if
its way off, then the sensor may be to blame, if its cycling off
before the temp drops etc.,. pressure test the system,
check your radiator fins (i know its new, but cover bases)..
I've seen a lot of this with all kinds of cars due to air
pockets that werent completely purged.. start cold fill it up,
let it run with the cap off, heater on (fan speed low), keep
topping it off, shut the heater off, and keep topping it off until
the fans cycle twice, by then all the air should be out. Good
luck!! P.S. I have also seen thios on the box with various
body kits that cut out airflow to the radiator (like the Fab)
problem, you sure your purging all the air out during the
radiator, cap, water pump, etc.,. even a small air pocket will
expand and blow out, if it aint that, then recheck when the
fans are coming on and off, a bad temp sensor telling the
PCM when to duty the fans may be the problem, do you have
a scanner, live data the temp sensor, compare to a laser
temp sensor readings you take at the thermostat housing, if
its way off, then the sensor may be to blame, if its cycling off
before the temp drops etc.,. pressure test the system,
check your radiator fins (i know its new, but cover bases)..
I've seen a lot of this with all kinds of cars due to air
pockets that werent completely purged.. start cold fill it up,
let it run with the cap off, heater on (fan speed low), keep
topping it off, shut the heater off, and keep topping it off until
the fans cycle twice, by then all the air should be out. Good
luck!! P.S. I have also seen thios on the box with various
body kits that cut out airflow to the radiator (like the Fab)
yea i purged the system of all the air....i really do think i a fan sensor problem cuzz my fan stop turnning up recently after checking up on the coolant, topping it off and all cuzz i waited and waited and the fan didnt turn on so for the past 3 days i been driving with the heat/ac on so that the fan would turn on.....
Originally Posted by Scorpius01
Happy trails, good luck with the swap.
replacing the motor in an XB is pretty easy, i have had one out and a new one back in an hour.
If you need any tips to make the swap go faster or need help feel free to ask.
replacing the motor in an XB is pretty easy, i have had one out and a new one back in an hour.
If you need any tips to make the swap go faster or need help feel free to ask.
Originally Posted by cobb
All sound like great ideas. Could be the radiator is clogged or timming is off.
I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.
I second removing the cap and looking for bubbles, maybe sticking an emissions probe in that area for gas and changing the head gasket.
11-18-2007 | 01:27 PM
#24
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by itsme
yea i purged the system of all the air....i really do think i a fan sensor problem cuzz my fan stop turnning up recently after checking up on the coolant, topping it off and all cuzz i waited and waited and the fan didnt turn on so for the past 3 days i been driving with the heat/ac on so that the fan would turn on.....
12-10-2007 | 10:17 PM
#25
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From: Forest Park
well here are some random flix from the motor pull....i couldnt get my engine hoist back from a friends house cuzz they werent home so i had to drop da motor out da bottom which isnt to bad aside from the fear of it dropping....i think something bad happened in my tranny cuzz my pressure plate looks like it got beat up
man look at that beast
man look at that beast
12-12-2007 | 11:57 AM
#26
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From: Forest Park
well finished putting in the spare motor and all....turns out i had one bad injector in the spare motor so i had to get one off my old one....my only problem for right now is that my fan doesnt turn on any more cuzz i think i need a new fuse/sensor/relay one of those....but all in all i havent over heated once since i put in the spare motor even after i pushed it the box runs like new now aside from the fan and all
12-13-2007 | 04:12 PM
#27
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From: Forest Park
Update.............
well everything was running fine and strong but a day or so later my tranny breaks.....i dont have 3rd gear and something is bouncing around in the tranny.........so now my box is sitting at the shop waiting for repairs with an offer from the owner on whether or not if i want to upgrade the internals for the tranny to performance........and then he is gonna lemme make payments and what not and isnt gonna charge me for storage.......the best news i've heard all week......
well everything was running fine and strong but a day or so later my tranny breaks.....i dont have 3rd gear and something is bouncing around in the tranny.........so now my box is sitting at the shop waiting for repairs with an offer from the owner on whether or not if i want to upgrade the internals for the tranny to performance........and then he is gonna lemme make payments and what not and isnt gonna charge me for storage.......the best news i've heard all week......
12-14-2007 | 01:47 AM
#29
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From: Forest Park
naw i dont think i wanna do a 6spd tranny cuzz im already lazy shifting through 5 haha but yea they said something about upgradeing the stuff inside the tranny.......we'll be having talks and what not about what i wanna do with the tranny but i know for sure that ima have lsd....
12-14-2007 | 02:03 AM
#30
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Before you jump to conclusions on the head gasket, get a vacuum gauge and see how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, if the needle is jumping all over over the place, then yep, it's the head gasket.
12-14-2007 | 08:54 AM
#31
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From: Forest Park
Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Before you jump to conclusions on the head gasket, get a vacuum gauge and see how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, if the needle is jumping all over over the place, then yep, it's the head gasket.
12-14-2007 | 12:19 PM
#32
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Heh, I guess I should have read the whole thing. Saw up to where you talked about the head gasket and figured I'd try to help out .Oh well, glad to see it up and running.
.Oh well, glad to see it up and running.
12-17-2007 | 08:26 PM
#33
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From: Forest Park
welpz look as like the shop doing the transmission job is tranna BS me....so in turn im just go get my box back and do the job myself and spend 385 on a tranny and throw it in.....so here comes the long drive from Atlanta to NC
12-17-2007 | 09:00 PM
#34
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From: Patuxent River, MD
Thought I'd chime in if you have future cooling issues. Killerglass makes a shorter, non-lighted version of their glass radiator tube for around $50. I have the lit version but either are great for checking for air in the coolant, coolant contamination, and you can see when the thermastat opens up as the flow through it greatly increases.
12-20-2007 | 12:43 AM
#35
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Re: Over Heating and then some.......
Originally Posted by itsme
... i can go from 60mph to 120+ mph in like 10 seconds over and over again....
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...-scion-xb.html
And the Toyota engineers with their test track can only get a top speed of 103 mph for their official specs:
http://www.taisei.com/project_details.asp?ProjectID=43
With your numbers, I wouldn't do a thing to that box.
01-18-2008 | 03:28 PM
#36
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Sorry to threadjack. Since we're talking about overheating issues which I think i'm having.
I have turbo kit, silicone hoses, nst pulley set (water/alt/crank).
Stock thermostat. Stock internals, new timing belt. Pushing 7psi. AFR is around 11.5-12 in boost (street tuned). Data logged my car, and the timing is conservative, no knocking/pining. My mileage is 60000 miles.
I recently did a coolant flush. When i'm driving coolant temps go between 110-130 degrees fahrenheit.
After cruising (not in boost), when I let the car slow down (letting off the throttle, not braking), I hear a sloowwwwww squeal. Its not a grinding noise. I'm pretty sure its not the brakes, and its not rod knock. Its a sound i've never heard before.
Is it possible its the water pump? how do I check if it is?
How do I check for air pockets in the radiator? or remove the air if there is any?
I also read somewhere, that it could be the head gasket? how do I check?
I'm really breaking my head over this.
Any help is greatllllyyy appreciated. Thanks.
I have turbo kit, silicone hoses, nst pulley set (water/alt/crank).
Stock thermostat. Stock internals, new timing belt. Pushing 7psi. AFR is around 11.5-12 in boost (street tuned). Data logged my car, and the timing is conservative, no knocking/pining. My mileage is 60000 miles.
I recently did a coolant flush. When i'm driving coolant temps go between 110-130 degrees fahrenheit.
After cruising (not in boost), when I let the car slow down (letting off the throttle, not braking), I hear a sloowwwwww squeal. Its not a grinding noise. I'm pretty sure its not the brakes, and its not rod knock. Its a sound i've never heard before.
Is it possible its the water pump? how do I check if it is?
How do I check for air pockets in the radiator? or remove the air if there is any?
I also read somewhere, that it could be the head gasket? how do I check?
I'm really breaking my head over this.
Any help is greatllllyyy appreciated. Thanks.
01-19-2008 | 10:21 PM
#37
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From: Forest Park
it maybe the belt like your power steering belt or something from the pulley.....try changing your belts and what not.....im not sure on how easy it is to get to your power steering pump and what not cuzz in the xb its pretty much a pain and because of that for us it tends to be difficult to tighten the power steering belt properly.......
01-26-2008 | 01:10 AM
#38
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From: Richmond, VA
I was looking under my hood today and see the radiator cap has leaked water as there was white outline droppletts all over the intake and the hoses near the top. Ive yet to see the temp indicator turn red, but know the fan works and the heat takes 5 miles to generate in this cold weather.
Looks likes we are in the same boat.
Looks likes we are in the same boat.
01-26-2008 | 01:23 AM
#39
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From: Forest Park
Originally Posted by cobb
I was looking under my hood today and see the radiator cap has leaked water as there was white outline droppletts all over the intake and the hoses near the top. Ive yet to see the temp indicator turn red, but know the fan works and the heat takes 5 miles to generate in this cold weather.
Looks likes we are in the same boat.
Looks likes we are in the same boat.
