Pics and modifications needed for the TRD xB header
#24
Okay, turned out to be an easy fix (easy, in that I could find the tools in my mess of a barn to do this particular job).
Bascially had to reinstall (third time) the TRD header, zip tie the exhaust in place to mark the hole locations, drill and tap. Bolted up without a hitch. Here are some pics of what the finished modfications looked like
As for any noticable difference? Only I will know...
Kidding... TRD claims just over 9 hp with a trd muffler/trd drop in filter and this header. This is a combined HP gain with all three changes.
The current mods to my intake/exhaust amounts to only the TRD cat-back, K&N CAI and now the TRD header.
Seems to rev faster in the upper RPM's (3000+). Definately an upper RPM change in seat of the pants feel. I'll have to do al little more driving before I claim that what I felt initially was it rev'ing faster (but it did feel that way).
It definately smoothed the power out from 3000+, so no vvti feel at the 3200 rpm like I was use to. So basically it just rev'd pasted it without a noticable change.
Slightly more throaty sound, without any noticable increase in interior noise.
Worth it?... To me, yes, without question..
singleshot
Bascially had to reinstall (third time) the TRD header, zip tie the exhaust in place to mark the hole locations, drill and tap. Bolted up without a hitch. Here are some pics of what the finished modfications looked like
As for any noticable difference? Only I will know...
Kidding... TRD claims just over 9 hp with a trd muffler/trd drop in filter and this header. This is a combined HP gain with all three changes.
The current mods to my intake/exhaust amounts to only the TRD cat-back, K&N CAI and now the TRD header.
Seems to rev faster in the upper RPM's (3000+). Definately an upper RPM change in seat of the pants feel. I'll have to do al little more driving before I claim that what I felt initially was it rev'ing faster (but it did feel that way).
It definately smoothed the power out from 3000+, so no vvti feel at the 3200 rpm like I was use to. So basically it just rev'd pasted it without a noticable change.
Slightly more throaty sound, without any noticable increase in interior noise.
Worth it?... To me, yes, without question..
singleshot
#27
nice work Singleshot...
now is it just me... or does the stock header appear to have a large amount of rust/aging whatever on it???? being an engine part i can understand dirt/oil ect... but that looks more like rust.... and your car is less than a yr old too right??
now is it just me... or does the stock header appear to have a large amount of rust/aging whatever on it???? being an engine part i can understand dirt/oil ect... but that looks more like rust.... and your car is less than a yr old too right??
#28
Yuppers.. a little more rust than I would have expected for a non-coastal, 14k car..
But I do wash my motor often (just about everytime I wash the car). So I may be enducing the issue by not starting the motor up and letting that water burn off. I Usually wash the car and reachable/visable engine area and wipe off the paint and let her sit.
OR... The OEM manifold could be made of a lower nickle content stainless and she's going to rust over time.
singleshot
But I do wash my motor often (just about everytime I wash the car). So I may be enducing the issue by not starting the motor up and letting that water burn off. I Usually wash the car and reachable/visable engine area and wipe off the paint and let her sit.
OR... The OEM manifold could be made of a lower nickle content stainless and she's going to rust over time.
singleshot
#30
I have no idea how much a shop would charge to install that header. I would imagine a "general" shop would jack you two hours just to install a header without the modifications. Figure in another hour for the labor on the extra holes (which of "coors" wouldn't take an hour.. but they'd charge you an hour anyways..
So three hours at the running shop time I would guess.
It's really not that big of a deal to modify. There is A LOT of movement room on the existing pipe flange plate. So even if you were off a bit (like I was), There was still plenty of room to align it properly.
The biggest thing is.. making sure that your exhaust tip is centered in the bumper cut out before you go marking any holes to be drill.. All the hangers from the header back are rubber.. So if you go getting the flange plate bolted on katty-wampus, your tip will be off too.. And to me.. nothing worse than a tip sitting to one side of a cut out.
singleshot
So three hours at the running shop time I would guess.
It's really not that big of a deal to modify. There is A LOT of movement room on the existing pipe flange plate. So even if you were off a bit (like I was), There was still plenty of room to align it properly.
The biggest thing is.. making sure that your exhaust tip is centered in the bumper cut out before you go marking any holes to be drill.. All the hangers from the header back are rubber.. So if you go getting the flange plate bolted on katty-wampus, your tip will be off too.. And to me.. nothing worse than a tip sitting to one side of a cut out.
singleshot
#32
http://scionpictures.blogspot.com/
here is the link...
I've gotta change all my pictures over to something that actually works... grrr..
sorry
here is the link...
I've gotta change all my pictures over to something that actually works... grrr..
sorry
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