oldmanatee

No, a lower idle isn't bad for your car.... I don't see how that happened from this mod, because it took slack out of the cable, but lower is better, as long as the engine isn't trying to die on you....If it is, you might want to finess the adjustment a tad...

eddiewinslo5

I appreiciate your response, and help. This will be day 2 of the mod, so i will let the car warm up for about 3 to 4 min, and see how it goes. Day one was with no stalls, or problems, and the gas pedel is definatly more responsive/firm


Thank You

oldmanatee

Hey, that's what we are here for....

rogcjms

def wanna try this but afraid to do it...

armhergo

Ok here is a simple questions

I have a SAFC2 on my car.....(which has not been set up yet cus Im stuck in the UK instead of being at home Lol). Ok if i push the pedal all the way the throttle says it is 100% opened ..... so does that mean a don't have to tighten the cable or not necessarily.......

I also notice that when u use floor mats u can not get 100%.......

blitz_xb

this mod helps w/ the trottle response

flyerI

You will find on most cars that after a little while the cable will get some slack and need adjusting. This is the same with brake and gear cables on bicycles. They will stretch a little after some use. If you have speed control you should look at that cable also. If it has much slack it will not hold a steady speed going up hills as well as it should. This is not something that requires repeated adjustments. Usually after it stretches initially and you make that one adjustment, you are through. Be sure to leave just a little slack as with temp changes the cable will want to shrik and lengthen.

xActly

THE_DON -- thanks for picking up the ball I dropped...I honestly forgot I posted this & only found it again because flyer bumped it in 'my posts'. Sorry to everyone who had to wait for pics.

I'm glad everyone is having success with it. It's a must-do in my opinion.

nds_CARnivore

What about us w/ cruise control?

TEASER

I adjust mine this week end. I found it pretty sloppy and adjusted it very carefully making sure it was set right and not efecting idle. I found 1 of the 12 MM nuts was little tough to turn. As showm in pic you can pull back cable cover and get to a 7MM flat to assist if nesisary.


I made adjustments and retested to insure I was not ingageing the throttle. Below is finished adjustment, leaving not to much adjustment for future if nesisary. Its winter and a bit cold, I will recheck in spring as weather gets warmer.


Over all it was nice to feel bit more positive responce and no slop to throdel body. Great pics and info in previous posts.

I like taking pictures and Tech docs..... Just my 2 cents.

xAlex

yea i did this about a week ago now and it feels as if i'm using more fuel...
maybe this mod encouraged me to floor it more (??)

xActly

I know what you mean. When I drive my car the way that I WANT to (80 mph on the highway, jackrabbit takeoffs) I average about 22 to 24 miles per gallon. It's just the way that we're driving the car. This mod will not directly affect gas mileage one way or the other.

I'm actually in the process of a 'granny test'; I filled my car and am feathering the pedal and not going over 70 on the highway. We'll see how much that improves the gas mileage. I suspect my own personal lack of decent gas mileage may have something to do with when the vvti kicks in. I'd have to look it up but the gas mileage is so drastically different that I can only surmise that it kicks in around 3000 rpms, so driving on the highway at 80 mph all the time means that I'm always using the larger of the cam lobes, thus using more fuel.

flyerI

Both the throttle and crusise cable can/should be adjusted. Just leave tiny bit of slack

ctruss

Good find, but there is a stop at full throttle on the throttle body as well and if it was already hitting that then the throttle was already able to open up all the way.

I guess the only real way to find out if this works is to pull of the intake on a car with slack on the cable and see if it can open all the way.

xActly

You should be able to do a 'before and after' with the cable itself, a Sharpie & a friend.

With the car off, put the pedal to the floor (as you would when driving, not trying to do a 400 pound leg press). Have your friend take the Sharpie & put a mark on the cable right in front of where it disappears into the cable housing.

Make your anti-slack adjustment.

Now go back into the car & put the pedal to the floor again...see if your mark disappears into the cable housing or stays where it was.

If it disappears into the cable housing, you know you're getting more travel out of the butterfly. If it stays where it was, WOT didn't change, but you're still achieving it sooner.

It would be interesting to see this done, and to have someone go a step further & measure the amount of travel gained, if any.

ctruss

Great idea.

Scazmatic

I know this thread is old, but I just did this last night and thought I'd give a few tips I learned while doing it myself, as well as give a friendly bump.

First of all, as mentioned, the left nut is seized with lock-tite, so you're going to have a hard time getting it to spin freely. With not much room to clamp down other than on the bolt itself, I ended up putting some padding around a pair of clamps, so as not to damage the threads, and grabbed on just to the right of the left nut to provide the counter-balance needed to break the nut. From there, it's pretty simple. Both nuts will adjust by hand and will tighten up easily at the end with two crescent wrenches.

In my opinion, the best way to adjust for maximum pedal stiffness is to first, before any alteration, check the idle of your engine, both at start up and after revving. Then break and spin the left nut as far as it will travel towards the throttle body (to the left), before tightening both nuts and starting your engine again. Unless there's something fairly unique about your specific car, your throttle will be slightly open and you'll see a higher idle. Shut it down and gradually move the left nut back to the right, starting the engine to check the idle after each increment. Eventually, the engine will idle as it did before any alteration, and you'll have found the best position for the nuts to eliminate slack without inadvertantly feeding your engine while sitting still.

I'm sure all of this is redundant for you seasoned pro, but for a "non-car guy" like myself, this might help somebody looking to do the same little project.

Dispatcher138

not having done this my xA idles around 700 rpms

Synthbent715

I did this a while ago to my xA, mine was very loose, but its still a little loose, and I've barely got any more room to move it anymore. I wonder if they messed something up when they put my cruise control on?

Tamago

good lord.. just push the pedal sooner..