So, here is my story with a header install...
02-06-2010, 04:32 AM
#1
So, here is my story with a header install...
Got some DC 4-1 Headers. Used this DIY: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-xa-xb-1st-gen-drivetrain-power-1638/dc-sports-4-1-header-installation-onto-xa-xb-15702/
That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.
Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.
The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.
The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.
Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.
I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.
Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.
UPDATE 2/8/10: Well, I have it at a local exhaust shop right now. Original estimate is $150 for the install...We shall see how it goes. I will update this when they finish.
UPDATED 2/8/10: Shop just called, everything is ready. Total shop install time 3 hours...seems long for a few bolts...Pics inbound when in possession, along with a final price tag.
That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.
Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.
The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.
The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.
Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.
I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.
Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.
UPDATE 2/8/10: Well, I have it at a local exhaust shop right now. Original estimate is $150 for the install...We shall see how it goes. I will update this when they finish.
UPDATED 2/8/10: Shop just called, everything is ready. Total shop install time 3 hours...seems long for a few bolts...Pics inbound when in possession, along with a final price tag.
Last edited by ajcadoo; 02-08-2010 at 07:36 PM.
02-06-2010, 04:37 AM
#2
Senior Member
Fail, INC
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: North NJ / PSU
Posts: 12,401
Hmm, sounds odd. The spring loaded bolts were def a b**ch when I did mine. Took us an hour just to get those out after we SOAKED them in WD40. I had my skinny friend do it since I can't fit under my box without much wiggling and hassle, lol.
So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
02-06-2010, 04:43 AM
#3
Hmm, sounds odd. The spring loaded bolts were def a b**ch when I did mine. Took us an hour just to get those out after we SOAKED them in WD40. I had my skinny friend do it since I can't fit under my box without much wiggling and hassle, lol.
So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
02-06-2010, 05:25 AM
#4
Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 852
I see you're a little green so heres some wrenching tips from a semi-old fart:
- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.
Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.
G/L finishing it up!
- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.
Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.
G/L finishing it up!
02-06-2010, 03:53 PM
#5
I see you're a little green so heres some wrenching tips from a semi-old fart:
- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.
Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.
G/L finishing it up!
- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.
Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.
G/L finishing it up!
02-06-2010, 05:27 PM
#7
Senior Member
Trader
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 954! oh yeah...
Posts: 4,188
Got some DC 4-1 Headers. Used this DIY: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15702
That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.
Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.
The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.
The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.
Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.
I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.
Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.
That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.
Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.
The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.
The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.
Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.
I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.
Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.
theres your problem!
lol, JK
you first gen xb/xa guys have it difficult, this reminds me of the header install of my bros 08 si, took much longer then anticipated! damm tiny handed japanese people, lol
02-06-2010, 06:27 PM
#9
Great info.....I'd like to add that a 3/8 socket will not work you definatly need 1/2 inch or bigger for the spring bolts. A couple of extensions to get the ratchet handle far enough away to put your whole body into it. Believe me it took all of my 300lbs to break mine loose, and I had only 500 miles on my new xB, not as much corrosion as I see on yours. The upper header bolts can be a pain I reached mine from over the top side. To keep from stripping them you need to use a closed end 6 point/side wrench that will keep it from slipping around the nut and stripping them. you did notice that 2 are studs that you hang the header on and 3 are bolts
02-06-2010, 10:18 PM
#13
Do you guys think that idling the engine for a minute or two might loosen up those bolts? I know the headers can heat up to extreme temps pretty quickly, plus the heat might help expand the stuck nuts/bolts. Also, would PBlaster be more effective when heated?
Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
02-06-2010, 10:19 PM
#14
02-06-2010, 10:21 PM
#15
Yeah, based on my experience, I would buy the header online and have someone install it themselves. The sad thing is, I havent even got the old thing off...and I spent 5 hours on that puppy! There are probably 2x more headaches when installing the new!
02-06-2010, 10:37 PM
#17
Senior Member
Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
Do you guys think that idling the engine for a minute or two might loosen up those bolts? I know the headers can heat up to extreme temps pretty quickly, plus the heat might help expand the stuck nuts/bolts. Also, would PBlaster be more effective when heated?
Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
Here is an early thread on the ebay header install. Happy reading.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=130126
Last edited by bB2NER; 02-06-2010 at 11:16 PM.
02-07-2010, 01:09 AM
#18
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NorthWest Arkansas
Posts: 900
Wow sorry about the drama, mine went so easy I dragged out an hour to do it. 20,000 miles no winter road driving may have some positive factoids to my ease.
Great suggestions on here already.
Great suggestions on here already.
02-07-2010, 01:56 AM
#20