Steel braided lines
09-01-2007, 03:03 AM
#1
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Steel braided lines
How easy is it to install steel braided brake and clutch lines? Is there a how to somewhere on the forums on how to do it with pictures??? i searched and found something but the pictures didn't show up. 
09-01-2007, 02:17 PM
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09-02-2007, 11:03 PM
#4
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Just an idea, if you're gonna do any brakeline work, by some flare-nut wrenches. You can nab a cheap pair at Harbor Freight....they can save the day. 
Also, isolate your brakefluid from atmospherice exposure as much as possible....it naturally wants to absorb the humidity out of the air.
Also, isolate your brakefluid from atmospherice exposure as much as possible....it naturally wants to absorb the humidity out of the air.
09-03-2007, 01:18 AM
#5
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I have the clutch line in hand, and the braided brake lines in route..
not hard at all to instal, but make sure you bleed every last bubble of air
out of both before you drive. thats the important part, besides checking for leaks.
I have an air powered bleeder at work.. can do the brakes at all 4 corners
and the clutch quickly, but in a driveway, take your time...
not hard at all to instal, but make sure you bleed every last bubble of air
out of both before you drive. thats the important part, besides checking for leaks.
I have an air powered bleeder at work.. can do the brakes at all 4 corners
and the clutch quickly, but in a driveway, take your time...
09-03-2007, 02:32 PM
#9
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Im gonna try to do a write up, without actually doing it.. 
just 'cuz im not in the mood.. but i'd like to help you out..
first heres what you need:
The line (mine is from Bonehead Performance)
Brake fluid (i'm using Motul RBF 600 race fluid=overkill, but w/e)
10mm flare nut wrench
10mm regular open end wrench
Pliers
here's the two ends you need to work with..
in the first pic, the red cicle is the complete end with the nut you need to loosen (circled in yellow), break it loose with the flare nut wrench, but do not remove (yet)
Next, remove the clip, that holds it to the bracket
after the clip is removed, comletley unscrew the flare nut with the regular open end wrench (you should switch wrenches basically because the flare wrench is a pain to line up, for every turn). Fluid pours out..
Next, repeat the same for the other end, pic below, (pain in the **** end)
the end circled in red
the clip cicled in blue
the nut circled in yellow
installation of new line is reverse order of removal.
After the new line is in, time to bleed the air, open the resevoir, fill it, open the bleeder valve (pic below, circled in red), bleed as you would brakes.. pump, hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, repeat, until no more air bubbles emit from bleeder, test pedal feel, keep doing this until it feels right. (need a partner)
Good Luck!!
just 'cuz im not in the mood.. but i'd like to help you out..
first heres what you need:
The line (mine is from Bonehead Performance)
Brake fluid (i'm using Motul RBF 600 race fluid=overkill, but w/e)
10mm flare nut wrench
10mm regular open end wrench
Pliers
here's the two ends you need to work with..
in the first pic, the red cicle is the complete end with the nut you need to loosen (circled in yellow), break it loose with the flare nut wrench, but do not remove (yet)
Next, remove the clip, that holds it to the bracket
after the clip is removed, comletley unscrew the flare nut with the regular open end wrench (you should switch wrenches basically because the flare wrench is a pain to line up, for every turn). Fluid pours out..
Next, repeat the same for the other end, pic below, (pain in the **** end)
the end circled in red
the clip cicled in blue
the nut circled in yellow
installation of new line is reverse order of removal.
After the new line is in, time to bleed the air, open the resevoir, fill it, open the bleeder valve (pic below, circled in red), bleed as you would brakes.. pump, hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, repeat, until no more air bubbles emit from bleeder, test pedal feel, keep doing this until it feels right. (need a partner)
Good Luck!!
09-04-2007, 10:48 AM
#13
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No, don't have to jack up the car... I have yet to run one, but I am hoping for what is claimed:
"As many customers have come to find out, the clutch engagement feels very soft/weak and the actual engagement point is difficult to hit on the spot accurately. This results in slipping the clutch more than is needed. This mod is for anyone who is looking to get rid of that unpredictable clutch engagement. After installation of the stainless line kit will you will notice improved feedback and overall feel of the clutch system. "
"As many customers have come to find out, the clutch engagement feels very soft/weak and the actual engagement point is difficult to hit on the spot accurately. This results in slipping the clutch more than is needed. This mod is for anyone who is looking to get rid of that unpredictable clutch engagement. After installation of the stainless line kit will you will notice improved feedback and overall feel of the clutch system. "
09-05-2007, 09:03 AM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pearl City, HI
Posts: 995
i dont know, based on your instructions, looks like there too much trouble to go thru just for that...I'll just stick to my rubber lines, plus i live in a condo. Cant really do anything over here with all the rules...
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