Trailers for xB, reliability at speed????
#1
Trailers for xB, reliability at speed????
I am getting ready to do the Curt hitch on my box and probably the Harbor Freight 12" tire folding trailer to tow my Yama R6 up to TN from Jax. My question is will the wheels (bearings specifically) on the trailer hold up at 70+ mph for 1500 mile round trip. Those who tow crotch rockets on theirs how have the trailers held up?
#3
I just wonder about the 12 wheels creating too much heat. I am going to get the buddy bearing that I can load up with grease so hopefully that will work. The Dragons Tail in TN/NC is calling my name so I must obey.
#5
Originally Posted by ryancarmody
I just wonder about the 12 wheels creating too much heat. I am going to get the buddy bearing that I can load up with grease so hopefully that will work....
http://aatherton06.home.insightbb.co...r/Trailer.html
The bearings and wheels only got warm, and not as warm as my much heavier boat trailer that has the same 12' wheels with buddy bearings. Buddy bearings are for pressurizing the hub to keep water out, for boat trailers. They are not necessary for a utility trailer whose hubs are not immersed in water.
#6
Re: Trailers for xB, reliability at speed????
Originally Posted by ryancarmody
I am getting ready to... tow my Yama R6 up to TN from Jax. My question is will the wheels (bearings specifically) on the trailer hold up at 70+ mph for 1500 mile round trip. Those who tow crotch rockets on theirs how have the trailers held up?
#7
LOL, thanks vintage42, I had seen your page before and that made me feel better about it, and insofar as advice, shoot away. This trip to TN will be a once a year tops and thats the furthest it will go. Other than that just around town to the big box stores for building supplies, etc.
#8
Keep the speed down and the rpms up - no faster than 60 mph and no less than 3000 rpm.
Don't use heavy throttle to maintain speed in 5th or overdrive - use 5th or overdrive only if the the road is level or downhill.
If heavy throttle becomes necessary in 5th or Overdrive due to gradient or headwind, shift to 4th or Drive to use lighter throttle and higher rpms.
You might spend a lot of time at 55 in 4th or Drive.
However, maybe Drive is not a good gear to be pulling with, because the torque converter not being locked up in Overdrive may allow slippage which would cause heat damage. I would rather be pulling with a manual transmission.
If manual transmission, avoid powered shifts - apply power after shifts are completed and the foot is off the clutch.
I pulled a U-Haul 4x8 box trailer for 700 miles with a 1968 Beetle. Of course the weight and wind resistance were much more than a bike on a flat trailer. The strain burned a valve. Did a valve job and traded it in on a 1971 Beetle for a second hauling trip, and burned the valves again. Yet both the Beetles felt great pulling the loads. They completed the trips OK, but then had the telltale rough idle. Cars don't always tell you as they are being damaged by hauling, but afterward you might realize it.
Don't use heavy throttle to maintain speed in 5th or overdrive - use 5th or overdrive only if the the road is level or downhill.
If heavy throttle becomes necessary in 5th or Overdrive due to gradient or headwind, shift to 4th or Drive to use lighter throttle and higher rpms.
You might spend a lot of time at 55 in 4th or Drive.
However, maybe Drive is not a good gear to be pulling with, because the torque converter not being locked up in Overdrive may allow slippage which would cause heat damage. I would rather be pulling with a manual transmission.
If manual transmission, avoid powered shifts - apply power after shifts are completed and the foot is off the clutch.
I pulled a U-Haul 4x8 box trailer for 700 miles with a 1968 Beetle. Of course the weight and wind resistance were much more than a bike on a flat trailer. The strain burned a valve. Did a valve job and traded it in on a 1971 Beetle for a second hauling trip, and burned the valves again. Yet both the Beetles felt great pulling the loads. They completed the trips OK, but then had the telltale rough idle. Cars don't always tell you as they are being damaged by hauling, but afterward you might realize it.
#11
Another recommendation is to use high octane gas. Read the manual around page 93? where it says to use 87 "or higher" and discusses knocking.
Then read the SL thread on gas at:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...25171&start=25
You will want the engine to do max power and no knocking.
You will be wanting to use heavy throttle which is a pre-condition for knocking.
The ECU will quickly stop any knocking by intervening in the ignition timing.
That will reduce power.
Make a choice whether you believe those who LOL at high octane under any conditions, or those who say the xB can use it under your towing circumstances.
Then read the SL thread on gas at:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...25171&start=25
You will want the engine to do max power and no knocking.
You will be wanting to use heavy throttle which is a pre-condition for knocking.
The ECU will quickly stop any knocking by intervening in the ignition timing.
That will reduce power.
Make a choice whether you believe those who LOL at high octane under any conditions, or those who say the xB can use it under your towing circumstances.
#12
Originally Posted by TheScionicMan
Definitely turn the O/D off when towing.
In Drive, pulling a load, is there not some slippage through the torque converter that might heat up the fluid beyond what the transmission was designed for?
Are that slippage and heat why transmission coolers are used for towing?
#14
Senior Member
SL Member
Team N.V.S.
seems like a bit of a lot of weight for the xB to tow. let alone at 70mph. i know in cali the law is 55mph for trailers. think about how much heat yer brakes will have to deal with stopping with a trailer at 70+ mph
#15
How often do you stop on the highway hehehe. If all else fails hopefully someone hit your backside so you can claim they ran you into the other person JOKE. Usually When towing on the highway you keep a large enough following distance to slow yourself down.
#16
You should be fine. Brakes/trailers are only an issue on extended downhills, like coming down mountain passes- Vail, Wolf Creek, etc. That's where you want to gear down, let the engine hold you back, save the brakes for when you might need 'em... and, yeh, the trailer will increase stopping distance somewhat, anyway...
Perhaps the most common misconception with double tapered roller bearings (wheel bearings) is about preload- if there's any detectable play, they're too loose, and won't spread the load properly across the individual rollers. Better a hair too tight than too loose...
Perhaps the most common misconception with double tapered roller bearings (wheel bearings) is about preload- if there's any detectable play, they're too loose, and won't spread the load properly across the individual rollers. Better a hair too tight than too loose...
#17
Originally Posted by hotbox05
seems like a bit of a lot of weight for the xB to tow...
He ought to ask Peckhammer the secrets of pulling a big boat. I pull a 16-foot boat with my 1991 2.6-liter Mazda truck, where the boat+trailer weigh 1800 lbs vs the truck's rating of 2000 lbs. The truck really knows that 1800-lb boat is there, and I can't imagine how an xB with a 0-lb rating can pull a 3000-lb boat:
Originally Posted by Peckhammer
I put on a cool borla muffler, which is the only aftermarket muffler I found that works with my Curt tow hitch. It sounds sweet when I floor the little bugger, and when I am pulling that 24' boat, man, the sound of that straining motor screaming through the outlet is awesome. Sure, I should wait till the car is broken in before lugging it with 3000lbs trailing behind it, but what the heck -- it's a Toyota...
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