I'm not as concerned about the numbers as much as i am about the fitment......
As far as the way it fits up with the stock intermediate pipe, Don't want to have to modify that pipe at all. That way i can go back to stock within a few minutes.... The other concern is the location of the o2 sensor. Don't want to mess with that at all....



Thanks in advance for your help ! J 2

 

running the dc sport header...bolts up jus like the stock manifold and the o2 stays in the same place...noticed big improvemnt on bottom end and better throttle response..

 

which dc header did you go with slim? i'm assuming 4-1 stainless? where on the bottom end did you notice your improvement? we talking 3000, 3500, 4000rpms? just curious, i'm really thinking bout headers too right now.

 

the 4 into one ceramic ... From 1500 rpm to redline u notice a big improvement on acceleration

 

There is no O2 sensor on the xB header.
You'll see better low end response with a 4-2-1 header like the OBX or MMW, and then better high-end response with a 4-1 like the DC, Greddy, Strup, etc.

They tend to kick in a bit more near 3000rpm

 

Watching for future reference in Project Boost Box

 

Cool thanks guys. I do appreciate the help... I was thiinking Dc but my friend has the Strup but said he had to relocate his O2 So I wasn't sure. Never really looked at it.

 

-----There is no O2 sensor in the 1st gen xB header.-----

 

I had the Strup and fitment is perfect. As OP said, there is no O2 sensor on the header so it won't affect that. The difference is that the heat shield can not be re-installed with the Strup, and there is a bracket on the bottom end of stock header that bolts to the coupling mount of the CAT that is not present on the Strup. The two bolts that seal the donut gasket from the header and cat fit perfectly. You can re-use both the donut gasket and the flat one where it mounts to the engine.

The hardest part on the install is pulling off the two bolts holding the donut gasket on. You will need to do it from underneath the vehicle, and they are spring tensioned so a 2' breaker bar or 3/4" ratchet is the best way to go. Regardless of company it should be about a 15 - 30 minute job once the vehicle is on jack stands or a lift.

 

I have the MMW and the fitment is also perfect. It also has mounts for the heatshield, if you wanted to reuse it.

 

whats cheaper strup or MMW or greedy?

 

not sure if MMW still makes their header ... strup and greddy are equally priced i think ... greddy might be a tad bit more expensive retail.
i personally have the strup header. sounds throaty, gives that kick starting at 3K. i think it really is all about brand name for our boxes.

 

The Greddy is one of the pricier ones...
You should still be able to get the MMW (although I think it's sold under Weapon-R now)

 

Any have any smog problems with these headers?

 

I don't believe any of the headers are currently CARB approved.

 

DC is carb approved.
no other ones are i believe.

 

I like my OBX 4-2-1 but I had to make it fit....which I did not like

 

hey blang kang!!! when do you start to feel your headers kickin in? like 2000, 2500, 3000rpms?

 

The ebay ceramic coated one fits perfect. It's under 60 bucks shipped. You only need to get the right bolts and it flows just as good as any other. I plan on getting one when funds allow.
Oh, and rhn0sb, It's HEADER not HEADERS. Most 4 bangers only have 1. V8s have a pair.

 

^ I'd love to see dyno results between the DC and the ebay one.

For the price, the ebay one isn't bad, but I really didn't like the way that collector looked.

I'm quite pleased with my MMW one.