sammyb

My car is not scion (its echo hb) but as far as the engine and the blower is the same maybe someone could help.

The kit is from TTE and the blower is same as Blitz. Boost is 0,5bar (~7,3psi)

Hardware:
S/C is installed and it came with piggyback ECU. I have also S-AFC II installed and there is a display for knockin sensor readings. I haven't make any adjustments with safc.

Description:
When accelerate knocking sensor values jump between 50 - 200. Ignition advance is bad (2-5 degrees). Power is missing.

What number should I expect from knocking sensor in normal circumstances?

I have read the O2 sensor values and it gives values like 0.830 - 0.850 from 0 - 6500rpm which means the AF is something like 12,5:1. Should be quite ok?

I have checked every binding and bolt twice. Change gaskets. Make soundproof for knock sensor to isolate it from external noise. Someone told me to relocate knock sensor but I dont have skills for that and the kit is made for this car so it should work.

All helpful ideas are welcome!

hip_2b_sqr

Are you using 93 oct. fuel? You have to use it from now on with a s/c. Also try to reset the ecu. My xb has had a lose of power before and that seemed to help.

moose_head

Low octane gas was the first thing I thought of also.

hip_2b_sqr

One time the car would just not accelerate. Kind of a severe "bogging" type condition. Very strange! Turned the s/c off and turned around and went back home and pulled the ecu fuse and let it set for a few minutes ( a tip from Micochu ) and then re-inserted fuse and re-start. Everything back to normal! Never has happened again. Never happened before either.

sammyb

I have used RON 98 and that is 93 oct (or 92,5) in your standard. I have disconnect ECU for a while and I think that does the same thing as removing fuse.

Funny thing is that I cant hear any pinging sound but the knock sensor can Does any of you have also Apexi S-AFC installed? Does the blitz compressor need maintanance? I bought it secondhand.

Baine

When I spoke To Blitz North America, they said that the compressor was maintenance
free. They also told me to use spark plugs that are one degree cooler. That will help
retard knocking. Also my box does not like any fuel with Ethanol added.

sammyb

I have to try colder plugs. Hope those help

BoogieQ

I think your simply running too much boost on the stock injectors. What is your injector pulse width? I would suggest trying to achieve .920mv on the 02 for boost.

If you feather the throttle and don't let the boost build past 5ish psi does it still knock hard or no?

As long as there is timing left that the ECU can pull, you probably won't hear it. Once it runs out, you will.

Baine

I'm running stock injectors and the same boost and I'm not
having any problems

BoogieQ

Not all injectors flow exactly the same. He may have run out of head room and you have some left. Just a thought.

Also, if you both are at different altitudes (him sea level, you 3,000 feet) that will have a big difference also. As well as barometric pressure outside and air temperature, etc.

Just tossing these out there

Baine

Good point

rollhard

Under monitor mode on the AFC, you should not get any knock at all. As for the A/F ratio, the narrow band o2 is not accurate at all. If you were getting 12.5:1 afr with atleast 91 octane gas, boosting around 5psi, you should not get knock. Do NOT relocated the knock sensor. Who ever told you that should be shot. That does nothing but make it harder for the knock sensor to sense knock. The sensor has to be located at the center or near center of the block. Anyhow, there are a few things that can cause your bogging. Bad ignition, too much fuel or too lean. Try installing a wide band controller and data log your afr, etc. or take it to a dyno shop and have them run your car (not for hp) but to see what your fuel situation is. The thing about the AFC and other piggyback systems is that too much air flow conversion and it will start to mess with your timing.

cz3ch

Alot of cars do not like ethanol that is in the newer fuels. It will cause backfires and can cause knocks. Unlike methanol...

illiST

any update, sammyb?

sammyb

update:
I changed plugs to one degree colder (NKG) and so far I have driven 2000kms with new plugs. Unfortunately it didn't help. Car runs a bit better but the power is still missing from mid revs to high revs.

Next I will take my car to dyno and see if AFR is really ok. Power curve may also tell something... I hope.

Baine

Double check all your ECU connections to make sure everything is wired correctly

sammyb

Ok I'll check the ECU harness. Is there any easy way to check that there's no leaks?

Baine

By leaks I assume your referring to the intake manifold. The problem is that I don't
think the compressor will engage with the clutch in, so there is no way to check and
see if the gasket is leaking. A little bit of soapy water would bubble up at any leak
points if you where making pressure. Lets eliminate one thing at a time. Do the ECU
first. I have seen several problems posted on the forum that where from mismatched
wiring.

sammyb

Up...

The problem still exists. No MIL light. A/F is ok, I have even try to run engine a bit rich but no effect. Idle is smooth. Boost is fine. Now I am even using Shell V-Power 99+ witch is the best you can get. Still the ECU retards ignition advance.

complete wiring harness came with the kit and the there's nothing you can do wrong.

My best guess so far is that the knock sensor is faulty. Does anyone know what the resistance should be? mine is -01 model.

Baine

Mine came as a dozen or so wires that I had to tap individually into a corresponding
ECU wires. That's where the errors come from.