yeah, the car might come back with 91, but it had a full tank of 87. we didn't want to drain it and refill it. ( quarter tank maybe, but not a full. )

87 sucks. pulling timing can account for some lost power, but even with 91, and the timing where it should be, the car will probably still not make more than 110.

sorry no pics. but it looks exactly the same as the Xb.

the dyno was a dynojet . not sure of the model.

 

how many miles on engine? should the ecu have time to accomodate the upgrades b/f maximum power is established? gas, plugs, wires,header,exhaust all play a roll in power too. it sounds like this kit is incomplete. with the addition of better/more fuel plugs, etc. the numbers should pick up. i beat the gas and ecu contributed to the low h.p. readings along with exhaust restrictions BUT those boost numbers are quite low can you explain why these numbers are so low?

 

Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread. Probably because I didn't jump on the computer after I left work last night.

We have the Blitz S/C on our project xB here at the dealership and I love it. We haven't dyno'd it yet so I have no idea what kind of numbers it's putting out but you feel a noticable gain. My xB with only an SPFR intake couldn't even come close to keeping up.

It's not a WRX, the thing by no means is a speed monster, but it makes a big difference over stock.

The only 3 downsides IMO (I can't make any claim on HP increase because we haven't dynod. All I can say is it is fun to drive) are that it's not smog legal, you have to run high octane, and that the ECU is a pain in the ___. Every now and then the idot lights come on and you have to reset the computer (pull a fuse and wait like 5 minutes). That just comes with the territory with Toyotas I guess, not as easy as a Honda.

Is it worth $3500? You guys have to decide that. Would I put it on my own xB? Nope. I am more than happy with the performance I get from my SPFR. I'm planning on a new exhaust but that's as far as I'll go. There are other things I'd rather spend my $$ on.

Is it a quality unit? Yes...installs super-clean. Runs well, the clutch is awesome. I just wish I had some dyno numbers.

Hope that helps.

Drew

 

that idiot light is you check engine light, and lets you know if something is wrong with your engine. it could have detected a lean or rich condition, or just let you know the vsv connector is unplugged.

the code may be for something simple, or it may not. simply resetting it does not fix the problem. you should check the code first, and try and fix it before you just reset it.

15 hp is a noticeable gain. you will definetly feel it. it should also be noted that the 15 hp is at the peak. (~6000) . however, the car makes a lot more torque and low range hp than before. if i can recall correctly, the largest hp gain at any one rpm point was around 20-25 in the midrange.

just curious what you meant?

 

I don't have any experience tuning Hondas, but I'm told their ECU's are a piece of cake, and basically just plug and play. The gents over at Blitz said that the Toyota ECU's are a beeyotch to reprogram and that from time to time the idiot lights will come on (it's not just the check engine light, it's also the VSC, TRAC, and ABS light). There's nothing wrong with the engine...the car runs just fine and as soon as you pull the fuse for 5 minutes and it resets, they go off. It has only happened once.

That's just what my experience has been and what Blitz has told me. They know a lot more about reprogramming ECU's then I ever will....I'm a retard in general, but especially when it comes to computers and electronics.

 

vsc, trac, abs all have their own ecu. if the abs light comes on, you have a problem with your abs.

( not a problem with vsc, or trac with the XA, not available)

toyota ecu's do tend to be a little more complex. but when it comes to piggybacks like the afc, or the blitz unit, they all work as they should.

 

There must be a central computer they all feed into that is acting up then. All the lights came on at the exact same time....Chk engine, ABS, VSC and TRAC. Reset the computer and voila! no more lights.

Mike from Blitz told us this happens on occasion and not to worry.

 

Hey Drew, what's up! Thanks for your 2 centavos, it's good to hear that driving the SC is at least a great experience.

Sad to hear all this stuff tho...the 15 HP gains don't sound terrible unless you were paying out the a$$ for those 15 ponies...

Oh and blowing your engine...not cool.

I liked the idea of a SC because I just wanted the low end power, that would be nice. The turbo sounds great and the progress that some are making seem just the ticket if you are a young rocket pilot. Definitely more cost effective with the HP per dollar crowd, too!

Still, I hope these early obstacles are just things that need tweaking...
I love my Blitz shortram..

Al.Truistic
aB

 

[b]HKS has an ausome piggy back system u should try that and also try boosting more around 6 pounds

 

15 hp on a 90hp car is over 17% increase. in power. AND i can't believe you used 87 octane with forced induction. that's crazy. and i also can't believe you didn't switch to colder plugs before you did the install. you can't complain abouto not getting enough power when you don't get the engine a chance. but even 15 hp on an 85 hp car is a vast improvement.

you let's say you had a car putting out 170hp at the wheels, like a mustang GT. and you added a supercharger and got 30 more hp, would you be happy? it's the same percentage as your cars improvment. superchargers are not as effective as turbochargers, as everyone knows, and turbos give maybe 40% increase at best, and that is with an engine designed for forced induction. our engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio and aren't designed to have more air forced to the engine. i guess a few pounds of boost is ok, but if you're comparing this car to a supra or something with a much stronger block that can handle 25-30psi, of course 15hp is going to look weak. but everything on the scions operates on a smaller scale. the cars are lighter, the engines are smaller, and small changes make a big difference.

for example, my car has the SPFR intake. stock headers and exhaust (for now). well everyone knows that that intake only makes 1.42hp at the wheels. but my little scion is way faster than stock. i can prove it to you guys, even with air suspension which adds unspring weight (makes a big difference). so if 1.42hp makes that big of a difference, i can't imagine what 15hp would do!!

 

I've said it time and time again, I am more than happy with only my SPFR intake. I'm not even contemplating any forced induction what so ever for my own car.

If you've got the money though, the Blitz kit is a blast to drive. I'm defintely glad we have it on our project car, and it makes big difference. Heck, it may only be putting 10 to the wheels, it may be putting 30 to the wheels (we really really really need to dyno it), but whatever it is it does make a difference.

As for the idiot lights...I finally figured out what the issue with those is. It's not an ECU-reset problem like I thought (although Mike from blitz did tell us that they might come on from time to time and resetting the ECU clears that problem up). Someone was fiddling with our gauges and pulled the vaccuum hose off the boost gauge so there was a small vaccuum leak, thus causing all the lights to pop up. I'm suprised the jerky driving the car didn't hear the hiss (was blasting the stereo most likely). I think we need to do a better job of limiting who at the dealership drives the car, but that's another issue altogether.

The Blitz s/c is a quality product, it make an gigantic difference in the drivability of the car, and I feel is worth what we paid for it. I just don't have the money or interest to put it on my own car.

 

if u really have the cash and the time do this:

to get more power from you blitz charger you have to do the following:
1. Check if the whole kit is installed and setupd correctly (you can check it at the dealer or at porchse).
2. have Octane 91 (as mentioned)
3. change your exhaust system (try blitz or 5zigen)
4. Double the gasket so u get lower compression on the pistons or change the pistons (like having JUN pistons)(lower compression is very important to your engine don't high compression or your scion will throw the oil from the exhaust lol)
5. the most important is to change the chrager pulley with a one has a smaller diameter (that will give you more rotation)

:D :D :D :D :D :D

 

Don't forget new spark plugs too!

 

People NEVER refer to percentages of increase now. If a turbo on a Honda H22A motor can produce 750whp, that's at least a 450% increase. You can turbo the 1.5 to probably 400hp, but with that, expect a built motor to be needed.

Not meant to ____ you off, just turbo talk.

Andrew

 

Import Tuner "tested" the Blitz SC in the May 2004 issue. (I say "tested" because there are no real details of the install or test and the photos all have that brochure-like look about them.) Their published results show +23.3 whp and +20.2 lb-ft torque @ 5700 rpm.

At $151/hp it's a bit expensive but that kind of money has been spent on sillier things ...

 

lower compression pistons will Decrease the power. using lower compression pistons on a FI car that was originally NA, is done to reduce the chances of knocking.

lower compression pistons by themselves do, in no way, increase the power.

 

At $151/hp, a $600 nitrous kit would give you 4hp.

Andrew

 

Actually, at $150 you could make your own nitrous kit. I've done that a few times already using an old fire extinguisher for the bottle and buying the other pieces from the UK at a very cheap price.

And unfortunately, I see the Greddy kit being th same as this. The system is designed for very low power gains out of the box but the Greddy unit will be more affordable than Blitz. Once you start doing the correct mods to the car which were not done in this test, you will undoubtibly see better numbers but still spending more.

If other turbo kits out right now are running over the 8 psi range and getting over 145whp, then once you do the right mods needed for the basic kit...you can easily upgrade the pulley to support 145whp also with very low cost since we know the car can already handle that load (i.e. turbo kits already being tested).

 

Indeed you could, I was just pointing out if you were to spend $600 on a nitrous kit, you would only get 4hp at that dollar-per-horsepower ratio.

Andrew

 

Well, there's always the cost of the nitrous. Unless your dad's a dentist or you work in a whipped-cream factory