GReddy is cheap. Less than 2k on the kit and the oil pressure hose failed. Torqued oil drain bolt to stock spec and stripped oil pan.
Flat stock welded to suction pipe for bracket broke.... what next! lets not get started on the Intercooler! shoulda went with the HKS kit.

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Hey buddy the only thing i can tell you is you MUST be patient. Everyone here that has installed a turbo kit on their xA/xB have had massive amount of problems (like me). I've had oil leak issues
on the turbo, I've had oil leak issues on the oil pan, I've had problem with the screws that whole the turbo to the downpipe come loose, I've had my header unweld itself. The list goes on and on.

I've dropped about $5K building the engine parts and labor. I've had to spend another $1K getting everything fixed and bolted up correctly. This has been a costly project and I'm still not done. I'm rolling with the TT kit and its a really
well made kit for USDM 1NZ-FE's. The problem with the GReddy kit is that its designed for the JDM 1NZ-FE. The engine is the same the chassis is different, your always going to find problems when installing JDM on USDM.

The problems your having are quality issues and that sucks. Remember japan is has cold weather, maybe its the heat that causing all these problems.

During my whole turbo experience I've wanted to get rid of the car on 3 different occasions, but instead I stuck with it, Its been almost 2 years and the car STILL isn't done.
Partly due to lack of $$$$, partly due to lack of time. From what i see you've been at it for 6 months or so?? Be patient, all the bugs will be worked out, you just have to take it easy and done let the car win.

YOU are the OWNER and the bunch of metal parts spot welded together that we call cars will eventually grow with its new turbo components but you gotta work at it. From what I've heard these are the biggest pain the asses to turbo charge.

I know a few owner on this page will say: "I installed my kit without a problem", "Everything has been going fine for me". And for those of you with this response, don't say anything,
help the guy don't be cocky like most people on this forum are. If your going to help the man, help him, don't bum him out anymore than what he already is. I've been here and it sucks.

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thanks. much appreciated. i definitely think that these are mainly quality issues. just sucks that upon installation of the oil plug to oem torque (as greddy says to do) half of the threads have stripped out. heading out to the garage in a few to pull the pan off and re-tap it so that the next time i change my oil, it doesn't turn into a 2 hour job. And the oil pressure hose may fail after some considerable use and/or time. It's not like its a quality hose from aeroquip. The worst part is that i am still waiting after a week and half for it to be delivered. its just amazing how i can get something shipped from hong kong in 2 days and at half the price of this stupid hose going from cali to chicago! And the best part.... greddy doesnt warranty anything on the kit... cause they don't know how the consumer will use it.... well, when a weld breaks or an oil pan strips out or the pressure hose fails, it's pretty obvious that it had nothing to do with how it was used.... and don't get me started on my 2nd ultimate screwing up...

 

interesting, Ive never encountered those problems. I'll tell you the problem with the oil pressure hose, it's happened before... the hose got dry-rotted because the kit sat on the shelf for a long time, Just as how an old tire gets cracks. As for the drain plug... no reason it should have stripped out, what is the torque spec? I would think anything over 20 ft. lbs would be extreme.

 

also with the intercooler, do not use the 90 degree bend tube that comes with the intercooler kit (one that goes before throttle body). use the shorter on that comes with the turbo kit, and it fits perfect.

 

OEM is 28 foot pounds.

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well im not sure what to tell you about that, but we have installed quite a few Greddy kits on xB's and xA's and havent seen fitment issues or quality issues other than a dry-rotted pressure line. You have to remember that the kit has been out for a long time, and could have set on the shelf for 4 years as far as you know. but instead of ordering that particular line I would get one from Summit racing. just measure it and im pretty sure the have the line with the fittings already on it.

 

ordered a greddy replacement in the meantime. going to go with an aeroquip ultimately

 

Hmm, i never had any problems installing my Greddy turbo kit. Everything works perfect and fits great....

 

I have had the Greddy kit installed on my RS 3.0 for over a year and haven't had any major issues. I am not doubting your mechanical abilities, but could there have been a chance that maybe you were in a hurry while installing and maybe overseen a step or two? Like JSosa stated earlier, you need to be patient.

 

^ Just what I was thinking.

 

I took 6 months to build the motor for the swap. there was no hurrying in this build at all. had all the manuals and all the right tools. while I'm not an auto mechanic by trade, I have torn apart both geared and gearless elevator hoist motors and generators fir quite some time. I understand patience and the importance of building machines the right way. fact is that I got a $hit kit. the hose should not have failed with less than 2k miles, and the oil pan should not have stripped out upon installation at 28 lbs, and considering that my xa isn't an off road car, that weld should not have broken. no one from ipp, to motorweb, to greddy wants to be accountable for these crap pieces. I spent 6000.00 at ipp this year and they don't even want to deal with this. they tried pawning it off on motorweb because they drop shipped the kit to me. just a hunk of cheaply made crap imho. my first ultimate lost a chip of the pcb that was for USB communication. now the second one us screwing up with the fuel injection. only I can truly see how it's screwing up is by using a scope to read the snap pulses at the injectors. I don't have a scope. I am never spending another dome on greddy, at motorweb, or at ipp/flatlander.

 

I still need an IC. If you're looking to part out the Greddy and go with the HKS or 365Motorworks, let me know. When you guys refer to the oil hose, are you talking about the pressurized braided one on the T-adapter feeding the turbo or the rubber return hose?

For the return I'm considering keeping the stock pan and tapping the block above the standing oil level to alleviate any return pressure issues and not have to worry about the pan weld. This is what 365 does for their upcoming turbo. The engine is out of the bay (still) being built so access will be easy.

 

my ghetto fabbed stuff breaks all the time the beauty of it is that i have almost no money in my project :D i do feel your pain though..

 

hey scions princess it is not greddy fault if you dont know how to install ____

 

GTFO this thread... you're just trying to start crap you won't finish ;)

 

Did it fail right by where the feed goes into the turbo? The used kit I have is chafed about 3" back from the fitting, and at the meet last weekend one of the other kits had the same issue. When I get it replaced, I will be bolting the hose down with a cushioned metal clamp and ensuring proper clearance to surrounding structure and hydraulic lines. If the hose is touching anything and not secured, it WILL chafe. This is an install, not a design issue, though maybe Greddy could make it clearer in the instructions and provided a hose clamp.

When you torqued the pan to stock spec, it's not a stock pan, so torque may be different. Dunno what you did to snap the pipe, if you use a flexable hose for the return there shouldn't be any force on it. I bought my kit from Tango used, and she's taken it from the east to west coast and back, so reliability isn't that bad. Talk to blown_xA, I'd be more worried about the engine going than the turbo, especially at higher-than-stock boost levels. Shouldn't be an issue with you since internals were swapped though.

 

First off, to the idiot trying to start crap....... get a life!

There are design flaws. There are manufacturing methods and/or material flaws. My bet with the hose is a combinataion of design flaw and logistical mismanagement. By that I mean, the damn kit sat on the shelf too long and the rubber dry rotted just enough that 2000 miles of heat transfer sped up the time table for mechanical failure. Let's see...hmmmm.... using a banjo fitting that allows for less than 2 inches to dissapate the heat from the turbo to the rubber isn't a great design. Now, one way way to do this is to increase the distance between the turbo and the rubber (if one chooses to go with this hoo-ha design). The right way to do it is to hard pipe the oil feed line with stainless steel tubing and -AN fittings. I have decided to take this approach and with less than $100, i got the 1/4" tubing, bender, and fittings from Summit. The only part that came from greddy was the m10x.75 to m10x1.25 nipple fitting (which ironically came with the replacement hose when ordered without the kit!)to use with the t-fitting that came with the turbo kit and then threads into a female m10x1.25 to -AN 4 that my tubing gets connected to. I've already got the part numbers if anyone wants them. I am using earl's fittings. The only significant cost for this project was the 37 degree flaring tool. Got a Ridgid no. 376 on ebay for $80 and it's a damn fine tool. Summits 37 degree flare tool isn't heavy duty and gets eaten up by the stainless.

Now, once I get my car back from the dealer that's repairing the fire damage caused by the oil spray from the defective dry-rotted hose, i'll install the new oil feed line and will provide pictures. Lucky for me, the fire started right across the street from the fire station! Point being, this japanese hoo-ha is crap. My next build is going to be classic american steel.

 

Alright.... car is back and running again... here are pics of the burn damage from inside passenger side, main engine harness location in relation to turbo (wrapped with one layer of header wrap and one layer of aluminized heat wrap), and the stainless steel tubing for the oil line. $7000.00 to repair the fire damage!!!!!!

 

ouch man, thats a total bummer. that oil line looks really slick tho, almost looks oem.sorry to hear all this happened, been following your build since it was an engine on a stand ina bunch of pieces lol