GReddy Turbo Kit is crap..
#21
that sucks, i to have been following your build, i even posted i was going to do the same to my echo, but costs got in the way this year. but now i have an xB and going for it next summer. sry for your luck, but your oil line fix looks mighty fine.
#23
no point in selling the car. everything's back to normal. just need a dyno tune. the fire didnt cause any permanent damage. point i guess i was trying to make is that someone on here suggested i go with the HKS kit and to save a few bucks i went with greddy. personally i dont know if HKS is better quality than greddy. However I do know first hand that the greddy kit is cheap. the turbo itself might be of decent quality, but the rest of the kit is ____e! i've started to notice recently that our society as a whole has become one of getting the most out of something and contributing as little as possible to get it. greddy's kit sure seems to fit that charecterization. even the dealrship that fixed my car does the same. they charged 4 hours to remove the dash when i did it in 30 minutes! just goes to show that if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.
#30
the turbo, manifold, and downpipe seem to be ok. it's everything else that came with it that sucks. I'm actually having a -10 an bung welded into my stock oil pan because the cheap-___ greddy one is stripped at the drain plug. got all my hoses and fittings from summit racing. will post pics and part numbers soon. also, now that I've got -4 an fittings installed for the oil supply line, I found a turnonetics stainless braided hose. replaced all of the greddy silicone couplings with vibrant. got rid of greddy sponge air filter and went with aem dry flow. she's finally coming together :-)
#31
xa, I feel you. Unfortunately, I'm having to use a Greddy oil line for now. ordered a new one through PTuning. I could not find an adapter for the banjo fitting on the turbo anywhere, and would have had to TIG weld an NPT to it, with it's own risk of leakage and at a higher cost than the replacement line. Do you have a pic of the one that came with yours? I'll be cutting my old damaged one for a cross section, but the line seems pretty solid, corregated steel with a stainless overbraid. I'm assuming the rubber hose is under all that. If the replacement comes with the M10x.75 fitting you mentioned, I might swap it out anyway. We have a local shop that makes hoses for drag and boat racing application, they'll charge me only $35 for a custom hose but need a standard fitting to work with. If anyone needs a hose, give them a call.
http://www.hphose.com/
I did dump the couplers as well, the Greddy ones were cracking, and I'm using PTuning T-Bands. I also didn't end up going with the Greddy IC, instead using the Dezod vertical IC that's on the 365 Motorwerks kit. Same thing on the intake, AEM on a chopped Injen SRI.
http://www.hphose.com/
I did dump the couplers as well, the Greddy ones were cracking, and I'm using PTuning T-Bands. I also didn't end up going with the Greddy IC, instead using the Dezod vertical IC that's on the 365 Motorwerks kit. Same thing on the intake, AEM on a chopped Injen SRI.
#32
first off, the nipple adapter that i got came from greddy. it actually came with the replacement oil supply line. i believe it was male m10x.75 to male m10x1 or 1.25. that then threaded into an aero-quip female to male -4 an. earl's makes the metric to -4 an fitting to get installed on the turbo... then all you need is an assembled -4 an hose such as the turbonetics. but here's the best part: if you're still building the motor, you can drill and re-tap the oil pressure sensor on the block to work with whatever fitting you want. you'd just have to get a new t-fitting and then the only thing you have to worry about is getting the stock oil sensor to thread into it. but what i would is call greddy and get the part number for that nipple that comes with the replacement hose. this is an easy work-around once you've got the parts list and could be done for under $100. i ended paying about $90 shipped for the greddy hose. summit has the turbonetics hose for about $36!!! whatever you go with, good luck
#33
Well, I already ordered the Greddy hose, ran $90 shipped. First, I called PTuning since they're an authorized dealer. They told me to call Greddy direct. Greddy told me, get this, that the hose was considered a "raw material" and they didn't stock it seperately. They told me that the distributer would need to call them. PTuning got back in touch with Greddy and after two days Greddy then said they could ship the replacement hose, but it would have to go through PTuning.
I don't even want to think about what it would take to just get the adapter.
Bottom line, I'll have the replacement hose, and hopefully it'll come with the adapter. Getting the adapter P/N and trying to order it seperately will be a royal PITA, and probably not worth it. If the adapter comes with it, buying the kit just for it would still be worth it since it's still cheaper than finding someone to TIG weld an adapter on, then have Henry's make me a line and adapter for the T-fitting on the other side, so I won't even need to re-tap the block.
I don't even want to think about what it would take to just get the adapter.
Bottom line, I'll have the replacement hose, and hopefully it'll come with the adapter. Getting the adapter P/N and trying to order it seperately will be a royal PITA, and probably not worth it. If the adapter comes with it, buying the kit just for it would still be worth it since it's still cheaper than finding someone to TIG weld an adapter on, then have Henry's make me a line and adapter for the T-fitting on the other side, so I won't even need to re-tap the block.
#34
if you get that nipple with the hose, you're golden. here's the summit part number for the female fitting that would thread into the greddy nipple: EAR-989546ERL. It doesn't show up any more on summit's website for some reason. but I was able to find it on google using search term "Earl's 989546"...I used a copper washer and high heat high strength loctite there and on the turbo also. I'd order it now because it's probably a back order item.
#36
why does an aeroquip braided stainless hose cost twice as much? in my opinion, it was a combination of crap quality and dry rot. right as rain way is stainless steel tubing. but you run into more of a custom setup with tubing.
#37
There isn't a better material out for flex line. The Greddy kit uses a rubber hose core, metal corregated tubing over it and then a stainless braid on top. It's actually overkill for our oil pressure, which is why the thinner Turbonetics, Summit, etc. oil feed lines work just as well. Henry's engineering took a look at the line and said it looked like a high-pressure steam hose. As long as the rubber used is oil resistant it shouldn't have been an issue.
I'm guessing blown_xA's assessment was correct in that it may have been dry-rot from improper long-term storage prior to sale. xa007xa, you may have a point about the proximity of the rubber core to the turbo itseld, but keep in mind the oil flowing through the line will also act as a coolant for the line and keep it under melt temp. Silicone can go to 700 F depending on the type, that's why it's used for manifold gaskets and baking dishes, so I don't think it melted from turbo heat.
All the flex lines use a silicone, rubber, nylon or other tubing as a core. The braid is just there as a strength member to allow the line to hold more pressure without bursting.
I'm guessing blown_xA's assessment was correct in that it may have been dry-rot from improper long-term storage prior to sale. xa007xa, you may have a point about the proximity of the rubber core to the turbo itseld, but keep in mind the oil flowing through the line will also act as a coolant for the line and keep it under melt temp. Silicone can go to 700 F depending on the type, that's why it's used for manifold gaskets and baking dishes, so I don't think it melted from turbo heat.
All the flex lines use a silicone, rubber, nylon or other tubing as a core. The braid is just there as a strength member to allow the line to hold more pressure without bursting.
#38
Senior Member
Fail, INC
SL Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,975
From: Nice little room with padded walls
Holy shiz, and I thought I had bad luck with their SC'er... had the manifold crack on one where it meets the head and had an input shaft cease and go through the case...
best of luck to ya
best of luck to ya
#40
Where did you pick up your oil line? I'm going to be replacing the oil line on my Greddy turbo set up while I have the engine all torn apart.
Any heat issues running the line over the exhaust side of the snail, and are you running a pressure restrictor?
Sorry for the 20 questions, just curious.:D
Any heat issues running the line over the exhaust side of the snail, and are you running a pressure restrictor?
Sorry for the 20 questions, just curious.:D