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Old 11-21-2008, 12:48 AM
  #281  
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Wicked!
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:51 PM
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Cool Extra credits for listening to Weezer while doing your mad science.

Hey Tamago, do you have a way of knowing much did the temps went down with the NACA duct?
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Noisetube
Cool Extra credits for listening to Weezer while doing your mad science.

Hey Tamago, do you have a way of knowing much did the temps went down with the NACA duct?
no exact numbers, sorry.. let me tell you though, once i boxed in the IC the temps dropped a very large amount.. took it out for a spin, did some hard pulls around 40/60mph and came back to the shop.. usually it's uncomfortable to set your hand on the IC after that kind of driving, now i'd say it's within 20deg of ambient temps

i got my limit switches today! wired and waiting on my position sensors for my air cylinders, my power supply for the PLC and my 4 control valves.. gonna use a nitrous bottle for my air source as it's lightweight and compact enough to go under the passenger seat

here's how the limit switches are mounted:

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Old 11-24-2008, 07:26 PM
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Bro I knew you were mechanically/electrically inclined, but damn, lololol

=)
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Old 11-25-2008, 03:18 PM
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lol thanks Sergio! how's the car running?

picked up my enclosure from the wonderful folks at City Electric today..

here's the basic layout of the parts. i gotta pick up a piece of DIN rail, hope i can find a manifold for the valves, and will most likely mount the power supply (lower left, converts 12V into 24V) on a 90degree angle.. contemplating a cooling fan but not sure if i'll be generating that much heat

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Old 11-25-2008, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamago
lol thanks Sergio! how's the car running?

picked up my enclosure from the wonderful folks at City Electric today..

here's the basic layout of the parts. i gotta pick up a piece of DIN rail, hope i can find a manifold for the valves, and will most likely mount the power supply (lower left, converts 12V into 24V) on a 90degree angle.. contemplating a cooling fan but not sure if i'll be generating that much heat
Almost got all the kinks worked out, joel.

Thanks for asking ^^

I'm having boost solenoid woes again, lol. I think it might be a ground or something. I'll be looking over the wiring over the weekend, because, its such a PITA.

Its definitely not the wastegate spring this time, lololol.

After thats worked out, going straight to the dyno to get a baseline at 12psi.

Oh and I might have a faulty rear-left shock. Other than that, everything else is just cosmetic, that I can get to later.
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Old 11-25-2008, 04:07 PM
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if u wanna troubleshoot wiring here, let me know, i have a nice multitester
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Old 11-25-2008, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamago
if u wanna troubleshoot wiring here, let me know, i have a nice multitester
Well the problem goes like this.

Supposedly when the boost solenoid works, its supposed to be clicking. When a 12v and ground are applied.

When I manually connected my solenoid to the battery. It did click like its supposed to.

Oh and I bought a used solenoid off ebay just in case, thats supposedly works as well. Did the same test with the battery, and it clicks as well.

So they both seem to be working.

Next I tested to see if 12v wire going from the apexi controller to the solenoid has juice. It does, but the ground wire, doesn't seem to be grounded.

According to what I read about EBC, they somehow connect/disconnect the ground going to the solenoid, thus the clicking. (I might be mistaken though).

Anyways. My tial wastegate has a 0.5bar spring, and it is opening when its supposed to, with the EBC/solenoid out of the picture.

With the EBC and solenoid installed, its overboosting to 1bar, until I let off the throttle. I have the fuel map extremely rich in that area of the map, so it hasn't been a problem =p

On the boost controller, I manually choose to turn off the solenoid. So it supposed to run off of the WG pressure now. It doesn't. It overboosts. So now i'm scratching my eyeballs out >.<

So that is the extent of my boost woes.

*Edit: When the solenoid is off, or when the solenoid malfunctions, it has a fail safe, so it vents the pressure to atmosphere (basically once the WG opens). So only when solenoid is on, is it containing the boost that the WG is releasing.
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Old 11-25-2008, 04:40 PM
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that sounds backwards... u usually VENT to create more PSI and BLOCK flow to run WG pressure.. depends where your pilot line is from though.. could be an easy plumbing fix (aside from the wiring problem) swing by the shop tonight if you like, i'm gonna be doing some house cleaning in my storage room lol
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamago
that sounds backwards... u usually VENT to create more PSI and BLOCK flow to run WG pressure.. depends where your pilot line is from though.. could be an easy plumbing fix (aside from the wiring problem) swing by the shop tonight if you like, i'm gonna be doing some house cleaning in my storage room lol
Well that depends on how its plumbed ^^

Some solenoids are Normally Open or Normally Closed.

This one has both options.

Since I have an external WG, its plumbed to the NC port, NO port is vented to atmosphere.

If I had an internal WG, it would be plumbed to the NO port, and NC port would vent to air.

I think I remember how to get there. Give me directions just in case though.

I wanna see your car in person, its been a while since I last saw it, lol.
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ippskidder
Originally Posted by Tamago
that sounds backwards... u usually VENT to create more PSI and BLOCK flow to run WG pressure.. depends where your pilot line is from though.. could be an easy plumbing fix (aside from the wiring problem) swing by the shop tonight if you like, i'm gonna be doing some house cleaning in my storage room lol
Well that depends on how its plumbed ^^

Some solenoids are Normally Open or Normally Closed.

This one has both options.

Since I have an external WG, its plumbed to the NC port, NO port is vented to atmosphere.

If I had an internal WG, it would be plumbed to the NO port, and NC port would vent to air.

I think I remember how to get there. Give me directions just in case though.

I wanna see your car in person, its been a while since I last saw it, lol.
917 nw 1st street downtown ft laud
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:04 PM
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Cool..

I get off around 6pm.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamago
no exact numbers, sorry.. let me tell you though, once i boxed in the IC the temps dropped a very large amount.. took it out for a spin, did some hard pulls around 40/60mph and came back to the shop.. usually it's uncomfortable to set your hand on the IC after that kind of driving, now i'd say it's within 20deg of ambient temps
Nice, I already have an extra hood and a Mitsubishi scoop to get some extra flow just need to find someone to fit it ( If I had the tools/skillz I would probably go for a NACA too, the scoop will look a bit weird, but I'll have the normal one so I can swap them whenever I feel like it )

On last page I saw you were talking about a fan... for the intercooler?

What kind of fan do you have in mind? I was thinking of that posibility for my car (really small TMIC, smaller than yours)
Most motor/industrial application fans would be to big to fit them under my hood, and way to restrictive (wide, thick and heavy blades would be difficult to move if the flow from the car getting up to speed gets faster than the fan's flow)
I was thinking about a server/computer fan, the idea wouldn't be to cool the whole thing, just to keep it from heating up while the car is standing or at low speeds.
And one of this is not like the fan on the back of most computers, one of this 120mm(or bigger) fans can really push some air. I'm talking about upgrade fans, the one gamers use (well, these are probably too loud for gamers)

Something like this:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12trblhisp.html

or this:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12tfexhisp.html

I bet you can find one (or 2) on ebay for cheap... and if you have room too put them under the intercooler you can have them suck air instead of blowing (although the thing may heat up and die to soon if you fit it down there )
It's just an idea, I might give it a try.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:23 PM
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i recommend a sealed fan from SPAL

http://etxiow.accpaconline.com/itemd...&item=30103022
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamago
Excellent! that's just what I was looking for. I emailed them, that one is 290CFM, the Server one was 220CFM, and this one won't melt on a hot day or get stuck on a spec of dust
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:30 AM
  #296  
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Thanks for the help bro.

I'm so freakin happy, WOOOOT!

Took some fast turns on i-95.

Feels like my car is on rails now =D
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:33 PM
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hey no problem sergio! let me know when you wanna make the changes to your manifold to deal with the heat issue!
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Old 11-27-2008, 04:33 PM
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As soon as the diaphrams arrive. I'll check out the one inside the WG. I really hope its just torn.

If its melted, i'll definitely have to do something about the head issue.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:42 PM
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well, i'll be dynoing today.. wish me luck friends!
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:50 PM
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good luck bro!
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