365Motorwerks

Break an axle! (That would be correct for a car debute right?)

ippskidder

I don't know.

I'd be pretty mad, but proud if that happened to me, lol.

Well as long as I got it on video ^^

I wonder what kind of numbers he'll get.

His car is pretty quick!

365Motorwerks

I just want to see the video of him tearing up the street and ripping through the gears!

Tamago

i'm hoping for 160 on stock wastegate setting

Tamago

well, it's finally over. i proved mostly to myself that semi-reliable power can be made for very little money.

i just broke $1000 out of pocket on this project:

365Motorwerks

Very nice! Hows it feeling?

Cinderblock

very nice ie been following this for awhile now total props. i wanted to do this same thing till zach came along haha

Tamago

Zack, the car feels great, pretty much power everywhere.. i still have a few changes to make down-low in the fuel area but little by little i'll get it.

JSosa

those are some good numbers man. Congrats!!

365Motorwerks

the shifter working out is it finished?

Tamago

shifter is not yet done. i will update this thread once i receive the last of my parts. waiting on a manifold on the brown truck :D

JSosa, wish i'd put down the kinda power you did!

JSosa

We both ran on dynojet's so i guess the dyno difference is out of the way. We used many different parts:

1.) I have a GT2554R, ball-bearing $850 just for the turbo (85% of you budget)
2.) Emanage Ultimate $500 (there goes your budget)
3.) PWR intercooler
4.) Perrin Fuel Rail
5.) 2ZZ-GE injectors
6.) A good tuner....
7.) ALL tubes (including exhaust) are mandrel bent

I went ALL OUT, i spent about 6 times what you did and i got 26WHP and 16 ft/lb torque more, which is a significant amount on a 1.5l, but still is it worth the extra 5K?? Dont know, but you do feel the 165 ft/lb torque...

BTW, What manifold are you getting? What happened to the existing one?

Tamago

ohhh nooo, manifold for my air valves for the paddle shift project lol. i am, however, contemplating building my own tubular turbo manifold for my current setup.. all in good time.. i currently don't have access to a TIG and IMO that's gonna be the best option

i'm tempted to turn up the boost and see if i can make more power, but i'm not gonna touch it til i get another reliable daily driver (think 2 wheels and faster than any car i'll ever own lol)

JSosa

your gonna daily drive a crotch rocket?? That's gonna bust your ***** (literally). But hey man, to each his own. Remember, there was another xA on scionlife that spun a rod at 9 lbs.

Tamago

i will keep that in mind.. my oil pressures are adequate at speed so i'm hoping i won't have that issue

uber-xA-RS2

Yep, that spun rod was me. In fact it what is worse is it has been diagnosed as rod knock. I primarily blame it on too high of boost on stock internals and oil that was getting to thin under the high heat loads because of the stock cooling system.

Simple fact is our motors are weak and were never meant to be pushed the way I was pushing it. I knew the risks and I took them. It all about pushing the limits.

I was planning on doing a complete internal rebuild this summer, but now that I have an excuse for a rebuild, it will be done sooner and it will be done right. No comprimises this time and when it is done, it will probably be the most powerful xA in the country on the stock block and head.

Lower compression, forged rods, forged pistons, 11PSi of boost, new bearings, rings, gaskets, the works. It will set me back about 1800 bucks but it will be worth every dollar.

Remember, its not a matter of if you will have engine failure it's when. I went 4000 miles on my stock motor at 9psi with a couple of full boost runs to 120MPH.

Tamago

can you answer a few questions for me?

what weight of oil were you running?
do you have an oil cooler?
what plugs were you running?
did you have an intercooler?
were you running Toyota coolant?

thanks in advance!

uber-xA-RS2

Sure can!

Oil was Mobil1 5W30 Full Sythetic. I was going to change to Eneos 5W50 but the motor went before I could change it out.

An oil cooler was not present on the vehicle.

Plugs were NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX (one step colder from stock) and gapped at .032" which is also stock gap. These plugs ran great with no misfires or issues.

Intercooler is the GReddy xB intercooler with some minor modifications to the intercooler brackets and bolted directly to the crash bar. Crash bar was not cut in any way.

Standard Toyota coolant with Red Line Water Wetter added. Stock cooling system.



The changes to the cooling system will be a big improvement.

Koyo Radiator
Flex-a-light pusher fans
Samco Hoses
Defi Water temp gauge
Toyota Coolant with Water Wetter

The reason I am going with pusher fans is the A/C system will be removed from the car with the exception of the evaporator core as that will stay in the dashboard.

The a/c system takes up way too much space in the engine compartment and the removal of the condenser will allow the Koyo radiator to fit better and allow the pusher fans to be mounted on the front freeing up nearly three inches of space in the engine bay from the stock cooling fan. Besides with the windows down A/C turns on at 30mph.

Tamago

this time around, run 15W30 oil as that was most likely the cause of your engine failure.. lightweight oil does not react well to high heat, especially in an only-oil-cooled turbo. make sure and run a cooler, they're cheap as hell! since i've gone boost, i've never seen any overheating issues with my stock radiator (and my turbo is cooled by water AND oil) so i'm not sure if you'd really need a larger one.. water temps leaving the stock radiator (i put a water temp gauge at the outlet) have never exceeded 200F.. more like 180F most the time.

but be sure and run some heavier oil! oh and does the turbo have an orifice to limit the amount of oil that goes into it? if not, i'd look into adding one.

JSosa

My engine runs pretty cool as well. Even at those 120MPH runs it never goes over 225F and the oil stays at a chilly 180F (all the time).

I was also recommended a heavier oil because of the heat. The only thing bothering me is:

I thought the lower the number the higher the resistance of going thin. I was told to use a 0W-50