what's a good boost pressure to run? i mean one that will make my car peppier

 

6 psi is enough to have a lot of fun.

 

were any new kits unvieled at sema this year as the rumors purported they would be?

 

the blitz maxes at 10 psi

 

damn it!
my car wont start! when its cold!
I have to keep on crankin starter and when it finally starts.
I have rev my RPM at 2 for like min.
after that when i rev up high smoke comes out.
I am guessing it's because of the new e-management and since it's not been tuned yet... damn ____ suck!
Never going turbo again on any car..
next car is going to be mercede and wont do anything!

 

i have the same crank issue....it is from the fuel line set up.
it leaks pressure that would normally be held with a normal set up.

the fuel pump does not start pumping till the motor is cranking. takes a few seconds to get full pressure.

no smoke for me though....

 

The smoke is the oil pressure building up in the turbo...the T20 or T25 series turbos only like to see about 30-50 psi of oil pressure. As we all know, our cars put out about 80-100psi depending on load. What you need to do is put a oil pressure restrictor in between your oil feed line going to the oil filter block. Limit it to pressure I stated above and you will be fine. Dont wait too long to do this or you can eventually blow out the turbo seals.

 

What do you mean by take few sec. to get full pressure?

turn the key to on and wait for little?

cuz they dont do much for me...

Where and how much is oil pressure restrictor.

 

there are a few different websites...just type in oil pressure restrictor and they will come up. See if you can get a setup where you can add a gauge...thats what I did or you will never know how much pressure is going to the turbo

 

how do i know what the fittings are...

and which one is the oil feed line?

 

dude,
the fuel pump does not start pumping till you crank the motor....not just turn the key to 'ON' but crank...it is just like i wrote it...
it takes a little time for the fuel line to reach full pressure. then the motor will start up..

think of a garden hose. when you first attach the hose to the spiket the hose is empty.
when you first open the valve, water does not come out the other end of the hose....
it takes a little bit to fill up the hose so water can come out the other end....

 

Actually Dave, I think he is right. The reason why I know this is because when I put the 255lph in my car, you can here the whining from the pump when the ignition is turned on. Same thing with say a fuel injected bike. On my bike, I wait till I dont hear the fuel pump initializing anymore, then I will start it(only about 5 seconds). To answer your quesion Bomex...its the only line thats going to the oil filter adapter(if you have one). As far as size goes, I dont really remember...I actually have one if I can find it, but it doesnt have a spot to add a gauge onto it though.

 

don't think so vito...my pump does not pump without cranking the motor...

i know this from doing my fuel rail and injectors....had pinched an o-ring.
just turning the key to 'ON' would not presurize the system...
crank the motor and the leak showed up...(if it would pump in the 'ON' position, the leak would show up right away.)
the pump needs to 'see' the crank sensor reading something.

i do know that you hear other cars presurizing the system when you turn the car to 'ON', but not our car.

 

Yes...your oil smoking problem is definitley the oil pressure. You need a restrictor. Even after you install the restrictor, watch your oil level. I was going through about a quart of oil per week even after the restrictor. That could also be your hard starting problem. Maybe you are fouling the plugs because of the oil going trhough there. I am not sure about the fuel pump issue. Maybe that is why I wasnt getting any power to my pump with the key in the on position...If that was my problem all along, I will be so ____ed...LOL...

 

Thats where the installer pulled the oil line from ( I believe...not 100% if this is it)

so how do i install the restrictor?

I have placed them on order and its on my way....

 

wrong line...that is the oil return line....try again.
look by the oil filter....just above the filter might be a block adapter with a line coming out of that..

 

ok I went down underneat of the car again.

found 3 lines going into turbo.









it's kind of hard to see #1 line from the bottom view....


So can someone tell me which line is the oil feed line?

so i can put oil pressure restrictor on...

 

follow the lines from the turbo, where do they go to???

one of the lines is in the pictures in your prior posting. that is the oil return line (looks like #3)

so follow lines 1 and 2. see where they go and what they connect to.
one of them should go towards the front of the motor by the oil filter or starter.....

 

#1 GOES TO THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR.

SO IS THAT IT?

 

Hey Bomex, you called me a while ago and I tried to give you help on everything you need for your set up, but I guess the only advice you took was the E-Manage. You might want to simplify your system a little.

The entire basis of the fuel system is designed to run as a "dead head" system. The Scion fuel system is controlled by the factory ECU and our pumps do not consistently pump fuel all the time when the car is on. The factory ECU only pumps as much as you need (up to a certain psi). Running a return fuel line back to the tank will work, but you may run into many different problems that cannot be seen untill later.

Your fuel compensation "set-up" will hick-up every once in a while if you don't try to compensate the additional fuel by working with the factory ECU. The reason E-Manage works so well, is that it allows the factory ECU to send signals through the piggy-back at it's normal rate (as if everything is stock) to the engine. The E-Manage does not change the output values of the factory ECU to the engine. The E-Manage only takes in the reading of the airflow and throttle positioning from the ECU and compensates fuel by adding milli-seconds of grounding to each individual injector (therefore adding additional fuel). The ECU and the engine see eye to eye just like it was meant to be, and the E-Manage adds extra fuel under boost without the ECU knowing.

This is why E-Manage is such a great piggy-back. It's not like a S-AFC or similar units that trick the factory ECU into thinking that the air-flow is different than what it is. The Emanage allows the factory ECU to do it's job and then add what is needed.

You can try different setups for your turbo in order to get it running. Trust me, I've worked with almost every major turbo manufacturer for 6 months in order to find the most simple and effective setup. We've exhausted most methods in order to trick the factory ECU into boosting. In the end, the best way was to just get the E-Manage and spend the time on the Dyno tuning.

Don't get me wrong here, I'm in no way saying that your current setup won't work. But for everything you have, and all the problems you are encountering...

E-Manage, 310cc injectors, and dyno time, how much easier do you want it?

Good luck...

-Steve