2 7/8 " outer diameter for the GReddy... 2 9/16" inner diameter top of the groove... as far as type, if i was to guess, i would say it is pressed on, the way it is set up, however, it may be keyed... only one way to find out, too bad i dont have a puller lying around, might be easier to have a machine shop machine a smaller pulley...

 

I'll be e-mailing Eaton about pulley replacement if they have one for other OEM application, the pulley diameter is definitely helpful.

 

ok if i do the tc injectors do i have to get it tuned or will the comp adjust?

 

too bad the GReddy kit doesnt run a 6 rib belt, if that was the case i could run a modular system for a L67, but they are a 6 rib... cory, steve will be able to answer your question better than i, but im pretty sure you wont need to get it tuned to run right, though if you were to take it in to get it tuned, you would see some good results...

 

ok i will just for a piece of mind and maybe it will help out a little

 

Yes, please re-tune or you will be running very rich. The stock eManage pushes the injectors close to 100% duty cycle on the top end. With the tC injectors, it was pulled back to 80% for an AFR of 11.6. If you don't re-tune with an injector upgrade, you'll be dumping 15-20% more fuel in then needed. I'm assuming you're boosted cory, the injector swap will only hurt performance on a stock N/A engine.

 

Who tuned your E-manage???

 

eManage was tuned by PTuning in Manassas, VA. They had a big post on here from their grand opening. They are greddy certified for eManage tunes, all mechanical components were self install.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ef0b007f4e52ee

 

Well, I will keep an eye on this. If my Power Enterprise deal goes south, I may go with t Greddy. Especially if I know I can run more boost.

For those that have them installed. How much room is between the blower housing and radiator support? Would it be possibleto add an aftercooler?

 

Thanks Vette, I might give them a try if they have a pre-made map for the TC injectors. The OE ECU picks up the TC injectors, it just takes some time ( not that you would want the OE as the fuel management )...

Easy, on the belt you'll need to talk to Toyota, it's their narrow belt drive, not Greddy = 6 rib.

Cory, the e-manage realy does a pretty good job with the OE injectors. The upgraded TC injectors make it necessary to have the tuning changed as Vette has stated. There's mort to the story though. The OE ECU will adapt to the SC fairly quickly as I found out with a botched e-manage 06 install. The problem is that the OE unit will not work the OE injector duty cycle to compensate for a lean condition at the high end. So you run the risk of, first burning up the upstream O2 sensor with very high EGT & detonation caused by a lean condition, next ring lands begin to disapear &, &, &, &,

 

I contacted Greddy and Pulleyboys to see if we cdould resolve this situation.

 

first thing im going to do is order a new coupler from ZZPerformance on monday, their couplers are a lot stronger and will not wear like the OEM units... then i will go from there...

 

Let me know if you get anywhere with Greddy. I've had pretty bad support from them so far, I couldn't even get a signal description per pin on the eManage, had to pull it from the install document of a kit for another car. I may be going over my head with my next project, but I'm trying to talk directly to Eaton for engineering support. I'm checking the technical feasability of twincharging the xB. To do so reliably and safely, I will need to modifications to the supercharger. 1) a clutch on the supercharger driveshaft to allow for free spin at high rpm to eliminate top-end parasitic loss from the supercharger, and 2) an electrically actuated bypass valve to switch induction from supercharger to turbo at a set RPM.

I may be able to cobble together the front-end clutch from a Blitz kit, not sure how it would mate or what compressor they're using, anyone know?

 

is it really all that complicated?.... the supercharger basically acts like artificial displacement, it doesn't compress the air... it seems to me... that if you had a turbo set to run at 4psi, the supercharger would cause the turbo to spool faster, and would give you some great bottom end, and once the turbo is making that 4psi it would only supplement the blower, so if you kept the blower turning it would be the equivelant of ~12psi... anywho, would definitely put in 8.5CR forged pistons and some billet rods...

 

^^ Easy you are 100% although there is some compression.
There is real mass involved, a stuffer so to speak.
For more than 10# you want to be thinking a purpose built bottom end.

 

Right, that's why I was hoping to go the RPM actuated bypass route. I could run 8 psi on the S/C, then cut it off and switch over to the turbo running at 7 psi to bump up the torque curve at the top end and still run stock internals. This car is a daily driver and I can't afford the down time of building a new engine. I also need it for transportation for my wife's motorized wheelchair, so most rentals would be out. I was thinking about buying a second block and building it up on a bench, but the block alone would be $600 at the cheapest. Also, the magnetic clutch on the S/C driveshaft would get rid of the S/C parasitic loss on the top end. The MP45 starts out taking .1 HP at idle but as boost and RPM build it can take as much as 20 HP to drive it (check out Eaton's site for the pressure maps).

 

Brian - The bypass valve will be a BIG issue. If the Blitz car was still around I could give you a better idea of the layout but I think you may be better off with the Blitz over the Greddy for this application.
The paracitic loss is not realy a big deal & depends largely on the amount of desired boost. A larger than needed SC, with the type of management we have, is a waste of time, effort & money IMHO. The down & dirty way to do what you want = add abottle. Since the car is a DD it can't be a street fighter full time & you need the reliability. I know I do.
I'd love to see a project like this work.. But it realy needs to be a purpose built block. Even the twicharged Minis, that work well, benifit more with a better head.
Easy will try this Mini pulley I have then all those Mini guys will have a market for their OE piece. I still don't know wheather it will realy fit the Greddy shaft ;) but I think so......

 

ordered a new coupler yesterday, should be here tues at the latest... in the mean time i am taking a dremmel and some sand paper to the inlet of the blower...

 

A new coupler? How bad was the piece you pulled out?

And - all the atached pieces to the blower could use some work. You'll need a ham sandwich & a small 7up if you plan to use a dremmel... make that 3 sandwiches & 2 7ups.... & pack a tooth brush.........

 

the coupler was good, but it is the only weak part in the blower, i had to replace the one in my GP. when it wears it makes a rattling sound at idle, kinda sounds like rocks tumbling... i decided that since i had it apart anyways, i would replace it now and not worry about it later... the new coupler is an oil impregnated polymer, so its designed better than the oem unit anyways... as far as the dremmel, im only touching the blower housing, not the gooseneck... i have other plans for that... i want to eventually do away with the gooseneck and fad up my own piece that will attach the TB about 4 inches away from the blower horizontally, maybe mount a 2zz TB to it... just gotta figure out how to get the sensors to work...