Wet kit
06-09-2009, 09:43 PM
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Wet kit
I have a friend that a real gear head when it comes to american made muscle. i have talked him constantly in getting his hands dirty with my box engine, but his main reply is that with a turbo or super charger i will constantly putting pressure on my engine and shorting the life span of my engine. He feels that placeing a NOS kit on the stock engine would be suffcient enough for running it down the track and a few street races here and there. I really don't think he feels tuners are up to par. so maybe some one can give me there opinion on just using a wet kit for the box
06-13-2009, 04:45 AM
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Toyota is one of the most reliable cars... meaning well built motors. I don't think a single person on here has had any problems with a charger damaging the motor. First think about what you want, a charger or nitrous, not what he wants.
06-14-2009, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by autopainter13
how much spray u planning on using?
Overall it would be more reliable since you don't have the constant pressure from a charger and you don't have to worry about a charger going bad, but how many times can you use one tank of NOS and how much does it cost to refill?
06-14-2009, 09:18 PM
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Stop calling it NOS, it is not NOS it is N2O/Nitrous. NOS is a brand!Toyota motors are reliable in the way they are made and people have had tons of problems with nitrous, superchargers and turbochargers blowing their motors. Toyota motors are reliable for N/A applications and F/I applications within reason. Boosting 15psi on a stock motor will kill it. Boosting 11psi or less the motor will last the life of the car and turbo setup.
The most a stock tC should run with nitrous is a 75 shot. 100 shot will max the injectors and will run lean. Even a 75 shot runs lean until the fuel arrives. In a wet setup nitrous arrives much sooner than the fuel so the car bogs down until the fuel arrives then the torque hits and pushes you back in the seat a lil bit.
On stock internals you just want to start small and gradually work your way up. Even still there is a limit and in any of the aforementioned setups there are variables that could affect the entire setup. For example, if your nitrous solenoid gets stuck open you can say bye bye motor or at the very least bye bye intake manifold. There are safety precautions to be taken with any setup and it is advised that they are taken. In the case of nitrous that includes, 1st gear lockout for manuals, TPS/Window Switch, fuel pressure switch, etc.
A really good kit is going to cost you a pretty penny. You want something made in the US such as Ny-trex, Nitrous Express (NX) not something like Zex because you want reliability. To refill a 10lb nitrous bottle you are looking at $35 or $40 and sometimes places charge even more per lb.
Lastly, to make nitrous effective you're going to need a purger kit to get the air out the line before you spray, spray only at WOT which is controllable by the TPS/Window switch, a thermal bottle heater so you're getting the most of of it and a remote bottle opener.
You'll run into a lot of people saying nitrous is a cheat, bottles are for babies and posting pics of the fast and the furious NOS bottle in your threads.....just to let you know in advance.
06-15-2009, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mb2008
Originally Posted by autopainter13
how much spray u planning on using?
Overall it would be more reliable since you don't have the constant pressure from a charger and you don't have to worry about a charger going bad, but how many times can you use one tank of NOS and how much does it cost to refill?
it is safe to go 35/50 much more is when you run into problems.
ZEX is very reliable ,has been for me no need to discuss that now. Had a dry @ 35, went wet with a 50.
A bottle ( 10 lbs) will last awhile , as long as your not blowing snow to show off. Lasted me about a tank when I first put it on, now with sensible use I can get a good month out of her.
Remember to change your oil all the time ( 3K even with synth oil) and you'll have fewer problems.
Just as with F/I go with a colderplug of the copper type, Nitrous does not , repeat, DOES NOT like plat nor iridium plugs!
06-15-2009, 08:16 PM
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Zex is garbage, search for a thread called US Nitrous Guys and you'll see exactly why.
Every 'problem' i've seen with nitrous kits on tC's, at least, have been issues with the Zex manufacturing, from jets to solenoids.
Also, 1-step colder iridium plugs will work fine. Just check them after your first oil change and compare them to your current plugs. I recommend NGK iridium plugs. Yes, copper will work and yes they are less expensive but they will have to be changed more often. Nitrous has nothing to do with your oil viscosity, there should be no reason you're changing it early. You are not constantly running nitrous and unless your race or drag on a fairly consistent basis your oil should last for its regular interval.
How long nitrous lasts depends on bottle capacity and the size of the nitrous shot being used. On the 75hp setting, a 10 lb. bottle will last around 10 quarter mile runs.
So if you factor that in to continuous usage it will last less than 2 minutes. $40 for 2 minutes but you will likely never use it for more than 5 to 7 seconds at any 1 time.
Every 'problem' i've seen with nitrous kits on tC's, at least, have been issues with the Zex manufacturing, from jets to solenoids.
Also, 1-step colder iridium plugs will work fine. Just check them after your first oil change and compare them to your current plugs. I recommend NGK iridium plugs. Yes, copper will work and yes they are less expensive but they will have to be changed more often. Nitrous has nothing to do with your oil viscosity, there should be no reason you're changing it early. You are not constantly running nitrous and unless your race or drag on a fairly consistent basis your oil should last for its regular interval.
How long nitrous lasts depends on bottle capacity and the size of the nitrous shot being used. On the 75hp setting, a 10 lb. bottle will last around 10 quarter mile runs.
So if you factor that in to continuous usage it will last less than 2 minutes. $40 for 2 minutes but you will likely never use it for more than 5 to 7 seconds at any 1 time.
06-15-2009, 08:47 PM
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On the 1gen xB, the 1NZ-FE is at a fairly high compression ratio stock at 10.5:1, so it doesn't like too much boost. That being said, I've never seen someone ruin an engine due to overtemp and detonation. The weak point is the connecting rod, Toyota used a cheap, thin, cast POS rod that will break with much more than 150 wheel horsepower. For reference, stock at the wheels is about 86 HP on the PTuning dynodnamics setup.
Superchargers run well except for belt squeal on the Greddy. For turbos, the Greddy and HKS will be fine, or if you have the cash the 365motorwerks will give you better performance and includes an intercooler. It also mounts lower to keep heat off of the hood if you're carbon fiber.
I haven't heard too much bad about the Zex kit other than to replace the solenoids. Check with Ny-Trex as well if you're looking for another alternative. Make sure you're using an RPM or WOT switch, manual nitrous is not good if you're new to the setup.
Superchargers run well except for belt squeal on the Greddy. For turbos, the Greddy and HKS will be fine, or if you have the cash the 365motorwerks will give you better performance and includes an intercooler. It also mounts lower to keep heat off of the hood if you're carbon fiber.
I haven't heard too much bad about the Zex kit other than to replace the solenoids. Check with Ny-Trex as well if you're looking for another alternative. Make sure you're using an RPM or WOT switch, manual nitrous is not good if you're new to the setup.
06-15-2009, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ecko04
Zex is garbage, search for a thread called US Nitrous Guys and you'll see exactly why.
Every 'problem' i've seen with nitrous kits on tC's, at least, have been issues with the Zex manufacturing, from jets to solenoids.
Also, 1-step colder iridium plugs will work fine. Just check them after your first oil change and compare them to your current plugs. I recommend NGK iridium plugs. Yes, copper will work and yes they are less expensive but they will have to be changed more often. Nitrous has nothing to do with your oil viscosity, there should be no reason you're changing it early. You are not constantly running nitrous and unless your race or drag on a fairly consistent basis your oil should last for its regular interval.
How long nitrous lasts depends on bottle capacity and the size of the nitrous shot being used. On the 75hp setting, a 10 lb. bottle will last around 10 quarter mile runs.
So if you factor that in to continuous usage it will last less than 2 minutes. $40 for 2 minutes but you will likely never use it for more than 5 to 7 seconds at any 1 time.
Every 'problem' i've seen with nitrous kits on tC's, at least, have been issues with the Zex manufacturing, from jets to solenoids.
Also, 1-step colder iridium plugs will work fine. Just check them after your first oil change and compare them to your current plugs. I recommend NGK iridium plugs. Yes, copper will work and yes they are less expensive but they will have to be changed more often. Nitrous has nothing to do with your oil viscosity, there should be no reason you're changing it early. You are not constantly running nitrous and unless your race or drag on a fairly consistent basis your oil should last for its regular interval.
How long nitrous lasts depends on bottle capacity and the size of the nitrous shot being used. On the 75hp setting, a 10 lb. bottle will last around 10 quarter mile runs.
So if you factor that in to continuous usage it will last less than 2 minutes. $40 for 2 minutes but you will likely never use it for more than 5 to 7 seconds at any 1 time.
Iridium plugs ( they have one electrode of iridium, one of plat) aren't good for nitrous because it has the plat electroid. the platinum has a chemical reaction to the nitrous causing Pre-ignition under pressure ( read during compression) , same way a glow plug in a nitro rc engine , the center "spring" in a glow plug is platinum and reacts under pressure with the heat and the Nitro in the nitro fuel to cause it to run. Iridium is bad for nitrous , I can show you but you wouldn't believe it, you already know more I guess.
Your oil will need to be changed often , not because of viscosity but because it will get dirtier faster from the extra crud in the blow by.
Our xB's will only handle a 3 second burst of nitrous , after 3 seconds they over rev, unless you are very careful.
06-15-2009, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by frogbox
Your talking about a TC and comparing it to an xB.
Iridium plugs ( they have one electrode of iridium, one of plat) aren't good for nitrous because it has the plat electroid. the platinum has a chemical reaction to the nitrous causing Pre-ignition under pressure ( read during compression) , same way a glow plug in a nitro rc engine , the center "spring" in a glow plug is platinum and reacts under pressure with the heat and the Nitro in the nitro fuel to cause it to run. Iridium is bad for nitrous , I can show you but you wouldn't believe it, you already know more I guess.
Your oil will need to be changed often , not because of viscosity but because it will get dirtier faster from the extra crud in the blow by.
Our xB's will only handle a 3 second burst of nitrous , after 3 seconds they over rev, unless you are very careful.
Iridium plugs are perfect for nitrous. I don't want to start a debate with you but
http://www.theturboforums.com/
Hello guys,
I am the technical support representative for NGK Spark Plugs (USA) and being a fellow turbo enthusiast I just wanted to clear up some of these recommendations I have found on here..............
The iridium plugs work very well with Nitrous and with boost contrary to popular belief! Platinum though is still not suggested at least not with nitrous.
I'd also like to clear up the misconception of what guys commonly call "copper plugs".
There is no such thing! Copper is way too soft of a material to be in a combustion chamber and would literally melt!
ALL of NGK's plugs and most all manufacturers that are worth a lick have COPPER CORED plugs. Standard plugs and V-power plugs have nickel alloy electrodes with a copper core. Our iridium, platinum, tungsten, gold palladium, etc all have the same copper core just a different central electrode material and or ground electrode to help with wear and or to increase performance.
Iridium has about a 2000 degree F higher melting temp than nickel alloy and is nearly twice as strong and even has less electrical resistance. it also has a much higher oxidation point which is directly related to plug wear. These benefits are what make this material much better suited for the environment a spark plug sees. It also lets us make a tip diameter that is much smaller to aid in ignitiability, reduce quenching and lowers the required voltage to fire the plug while still maintaining a life expectancy longer than a standard v-power plug. The IX series also goes a step beyond this and features a tapered ground electrode which helps reduce quenching, and allows the flame kernel to grow faster and larger, hence increasing ignitability and efficiency. This simply translates to improved torque and throttle response and an increase to fouling resistance.
certainly this can't cover all the heads and setups that are out there. So if you have any additional questions or concerns please contact me at my desk at 248 926 6315 or you can call tech support at 877-473-6767 option 2 or shoot me a PM Hope this helps, Thanks
Brandon Peeler
Technical Support Representative
Aftermarket Division
NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), INC.
46929 Magellan Dr.
Wixom, MI 48393
Bpeeler@ngksparkplugs.com
WWW.ngksparkplugs.COM
I am the technical support representative for NGK Spark Plugs (USA) and being a fellow turbo enthusiast I just wanted to clear up some of these recommendations I have found on here..............
The iridium plugs work very well with Nitrous and with boost contrary to popular belief! Platinum though is still not suggested at least not with nitrous.
I'd also like to clear up the misconception of what guys commonly call "copper plugs".
There is no such thing! Copper is way too soft of a material to be in a combustion chamber and would literally melt!
ALL of NGK's plugs and most all manufacturers that are worth a lick have COPPER CORED plugs. Standard plugs and V-power plugs have nickel alloy electrodes with a copper core. Our iridium, platinum, tungsten, gold palladium, etc all have the same copper core just a different central electrode material and or ground electrode to help with wear and or to increase performance.
Iridium has about a 2000 degree F higher melting temp than nickel alloy and is nearly twice as strong and even has less electrical resistance. it also has a much higher oxidation point which is directly related to plug wear. These benefits are what make this material much better suited for the environment a spark plug sees. It also lets us make a tip diameter that is much smaller to aid in ignitiability, reduce quenching and lowers the required voltage to fire the plug while still maintaining a life expectancy longer than a standard v-power plug. The IX series also goes a step beyond this and features a tapered ground electrode which helps reduce quenching, and allows the flame kernel to grow faster and larger, hence increasing ignitability and efficiency. This simply translates to improved torque and throttle response and an increase to fouling resistance.
certainly this can't cover all the heads and setups that are out there. So if you have any additional questions or concerns please contact me at my desk at 248 926 6315 or you can call tech support at 877-473-6767 option 2 or shoot me a PM Hope this helps, Thanks
Brandon Peeler
Technical Support Representative
Aftermarket Division
NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), INC.
46929 Magellan Dr.
Wixom, MI 48393
Bpeeler@ngksparkplugs.com
WWW.ngksparkplugs.COM
If you start spraying at 2500rpm you can spray for more than 3 seconds. It all depends on when you start spraying which shouldn't be before 2500rpm and what gear it is. Obviously 1st and 2nd won't allow for spraying for long but depending on if you power shift that interval will be even less.
But if you think you know more, then more power to ya.
06-15-2009, 11:22 PM
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ecko04 you wrote " The nitrous simply cools the intake temps "
You are wrong , it also adds FUEL to the burning process ( it adds oxygen ) you really don't know how or why it works do you ?
Get real tired of uninformed peopletalking like they know it all like that statement
Not meaning to finish a flame war but if you were really informed about nitrous and its uses you might be someone to listen to.try not to pass misinformation to someone that is trying to learn the pros and cons.
You are wrong , it also adds FUEL to the burning process ( it adds oxygen ) you really don't know how or why it works do you ?
Get real tired of uninformed peopletalking like they know it all like that statement
Not meaning to finish a flame war but if you were really informed about nitrous and its uses you might be someone to listen to.try not to pass misinformation to someone that is trying to learn the pros and cons.
06-15-2009, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by frogbox
ecko04 you wrote " The nitrous simply cools the intake temps "
You are wrong , it also adds FUEL to the burning process ( it adds oxygen ) you really don't know how or why it works do you ?
Get real tired of uninformed peopletalking like they know it all like that statement
Not meaning to finish a flame war but if you were really informed about nitrous and its uses you might be someone to listen to.try not to pass misinformation to someone that is trying to learn the pros and cons.
You are wrong , it also adds FUEL to the burning process ( it adds oxygen ) you really don't know how or why it works do you ?
Get real tired of uninformed peopletalking like they know it all like that statement
Not meaning to finish a flame war but if you were really informed about nitrous and its uses you might be someone to listen to.try not to pass misinformation to someone that is trying to learn the pros and cons.
----> This is signature worthy!
Originally Posted by frogbox
ecko04 you wrote " The nitrous simply cools the intake temps "
You are wrong
You are wrong
http://www.ny-trex.com/faq.php#how
Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one-part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter-cooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one-part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter-cooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
In fact, nitrous gas contains about 2.3 times as much oxygen per cubic foot than air does. More available oxygen means that more fuel can be injected, and more fuel means more power. But that's not all nitrous does. Because nitrous is stored in liquid form in a bottle at high pressure, it cools significantly as it expands. Remember high school physics? Gases condense when they cool down, so besides adding a lot more oxygen into the air/fuel mixture, Nitrous also helps cool the intake charge, thereby topping out the raw oxygen level in your engine's cylinders.
You were wrong about the spark plugs now you're wrong about the cooling of intake charges.
Do you want to pick another topic that you're actually knowledgeable about so you can be right for once?
I never stated I knew it all nor will I. I am sure there are topics you are more well versed in; nitrous happens not to be one of them. I learned about nitrous from guys that have run the crap for 20+ years and I did a lot of research before adding nitrous to the tC. I recently uninstalled my nitrous system for another form of F/I but that does not mean I also discarded my knowledge on the subject which is minimal to those guys that I still talk about about nitrous.
The OP wanted some info so I dropped it on him and I doubt anyone running nitrous or having ran nitrous in the past would disagree with anything I said; well perhaps you.
06-16-2009, 03:20 AM
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Dear ecko,
If you read the quotes you posted, it proves you were wrong in what you said about nitrous ONLY cooling the intake charge, re-read it. It shows you were wrong.
I have many miles with nitrous on my box , as well as a few other autos.
As for being wrong about the plugs? I don't think so , experience I HAVE shows it.
I did research on plugs, oh yeah people like you said it was all wrong, it only shows another person that like to passon stuff they heard from a friend of a friend, notfrom personal experience or testing it themselves.
Continue on passing along all your "crud" .If people want to read it and take it for gospel so be it.
But re-read your posts , and contradict your self , again.
If you read the quotes you posted, it proves you were wrong in what you said about nitrous ONLY cooling the intake charge, re-read it. It shows you were wrong.
I have many miles with nitrous on my box , as well as a few other autos.
As for being wrong about the plugs? I don't think so , experience I HAVE shows it.
I did research on plugs, oh yeah people like you said it was all wrong, it only shows another person that like to passon stuff they heard from a friend of a friend, notfrom personal experience or testing it themselves.
Continue on passing along all your "crud" .If people want to read it and take it for gospel so be it.
But re-read your posts , and contradict your self , again.
06-16-2009, 12:50 PM
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Dear?? You writing a letter now?
Dude just stop already you've been proven wrong one not once but two occasions.
The cooler intake charge is what allows more oxygen into the combustion process which creates more power. So without all the specifics and to sum it up in a mundane way, it simply only cools the intake charge. Without the cooling of the intake charge initially no more power would be created. Look at the second quote gases condense when they cool down.
You have experience, what a tool. More experience than spark plug manufacturers; that makes absolutely no sense.
When you are ready to post more wrong information let me know and i'll be happy to refute it too,
Dude just stop already you've been proven wrong one not once but two occasions.
The cooler intake charge is what allows more oxygen into the combustion process which creates more power. So without all the specifics and to sum it up in a mundane way, it simply only cools the intake charge. Without the cooling of the intake charge initially no more power would be created. Look at the second quote gases condense when they cool down.
You have experience, what a tool. More experience than spark plug manufacturers; that makes absolutely no sense.
When you are ready to post more wrong information let me know and i'll be happy to refute it too,
06-16-2009, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ecko04
The cooler intake charge is what allows more oxygen into the combustion process which creates more power. So without all the specifics and to sum it up in a mundane way, it simply only cools the intake charge. Without the cooling of the intake charge initially no more power would be created. Look at the second quote gases condense when they cool down.
N2O + heat ----> N2 + O2
It's HAZMAT classified as an oxidizer for a reason. At temperature, it breaks down to it's native nitrogen and oxygen components. Extra fuel is added as a jet along with the nitroous in the wet configuration so that the extra oxygen has something to burn without running lean. If a dry system is used, the fuel controller will need to increase injector duty cycle during nitrous operation in order to maintain AF/R with the added O2.
It does also cool the combustion cylinder through evaporation. This may increase air charge density, but probably not to a noticeable degree, especially if jetted in the manifold instead of as a fog at the intake filter. The cooling does add a layer of protection from overtemp, and additionally increases power by increasing the temperature delta between cold reservoir and hot reservoir if viewed as a carnot heat cycle.
Ok, can we get back to helping the guy with an xB run a safe nitrous shot now? Oh, and I run copper plugs, one step colder. I have to change them more often but at $2.50 / plug, it's still cheaper than running indurium. Just pull them at every oil change for inspection and re-gap if neccessary.
06-16-2009, 02:37 PM
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If you're looking to simply cool the intake temperature, I'd recommend methenol injection. It's a proven technology, easier to install since you don't need to tap the fuel system, and with most systems primarily using close to a 50-50 meth / water mix, windshild washing fluid can be used and is a lot cheaper than filling a nitrous bottle. You won't see much of a power gain by itself, but definately worthwhile if you decide to turbo for extra detonation protection. There's some supporting evidence as well that in addition to temperature reduction, it also acts as an octane booster, slowing burn rate for a more complete burn and lower peak combustion temperature.
06-16-2009, 03:48 PM
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Thanks for expanding upon my summary in a nutshell.
I think the OP is definitely looking for some hp gain as well but not for use everyday, I think he said for a few tack runs.
While pure copper plugs are cheaper, iridium plugs will last longer and something you don't have to check at every oil change interval, cost a bit more and something you check every few oil changes instead of every oil change.
I think the OP is definitely looking for some hp gain as well but not for use everyday, I think he said for a few tack runs.
While pure copper plugs are cheaper, iridium plugs will last longer and something you don't have to check at every oil change interval, cost a bit more and something you check every few oil changes instead of every oil change.
06-16-2009, 06:33 PM
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NP, though I don't think you read it all. I'm really not trying to flame, just get correct facts out.
The colder intake charge is NOT what allows more oxygen. The N2O heated up and decomposed to N2 and O2 is the primary source of increased oxygen. If the N2O were already gaseous and at room temperature, it would STILL act as an oxidizer. It's stored as a liquid simply because you can hold more of it in a smaller volume, and it can be pumped easier. Kind of similar to why we fill liquid gasoline, but atomize it to a gaseous state to get it to burn. I was trying to clarify that increased available oxygen was primarily from the nitrous oxide actually releasing 1/2 mol O2 per 1 mol of N2O during combustion, and not a product of denser air from the lower intake charge temperature.
The colder charge temperature actually acts mainly as an efficiency booster. Carnot efficiency is = n = 1 - (Hc / Ht), so the colder ambient before combustion, the greater combustion efficiency and the greater the output power. Air density is not a factor.
Probably the coolest thing I've seen to demonstrate this was the salami-fueled rocket on Mythbusters. They took a large round of salami, hollowed out the core, and put a gas bottle on top filled with N2O. When ignited, the N2O decomposed and released O2, which rapidly oxidized with the carbon in the salami fat and produced enough thrust for a 30 foot liftoff. - Don't do a google search for salami rocket without safesearch on.
Plugs are personal preference. As easy as ours are to pull though, I'd rather do the more frequent check. Plus, they can give you early warning if the engine is running lean, hot, cold, rich, etc. Better to know in 3k miles than 9. I do use the NGK V-Power instead of the standard since the v-gap on the electrode allows for a greater charge density and larger arc.
Originally Posted by ecko04
The cooler intake charge is what allows more oxygen into the combustion process which creates more power. So without all the specifics and to sum it up in a mundane way, it simply only cools the intake charge. Without the cooling of the intake charge initially no more power would be created.
The colder charge temperature actually acts mainly as an efficiency booster. Carnot efficiency is = n = 1 - (Hc / Ht), so the colder ambient before combustion, the greater combustion efficiency and the greater the output power. Air density is not a factor.
Probably the coolest thing I've seen to demonstrate this was the salami-fueled rocket on Mythbusters. They took a large round of salami, hollowed out the core, and put a gas bottle on top filled with N2O. When ignited, the N2O decomposed and released O2, which rapidly oxidized with the carbon in the salami fat and produced enough thrust for a 30 foot liftoff. - Don't do a google search for salami rocket without safesearch on.
Plugs are personal preference. As easy as ours are to pull though, I'd rather do the more frequent check. Plus, they can give you early warning if the engine is running lean, hot, cold, rich, etc. Better to know in 3k miles than 9. I do use the NGK V-Power instead of the standard since the v-gap on the electrode allows for a greater charge density and larger arc.
06-16-2009, 08:48 PM
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[quote="frogbox"][quote="mb2008"]
Well thats the question whats the safe amount on stock motor? The irridium plugs were the first thing i changed too
Originally Posted by autopainter13
how much spray u planning on using?
06-16-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vettereddie
NP, though I don't think you read it all. I'm really not trying to flame, just get correct facts out.
Like I stated originally, I didn't state that was all. I was summarizing in a nutshell. An expounded explanation would be what you gave. I gave a 1 sentence or 2 statement maybe over simplifying the concept while you provided a 3 to 4 paragraph explanation.