I'm thinking of sticking a 1NZFE (probably from an Echo due to higher FD) into my 1976 Mini. Stock 106bhp would actually be pretty quick in a 1400 lb car. If I do decide to get more out of the engine with forced induction, how much WHP could be achieved without major changes to the stock bottom end. From what I understand, the 1NZFE isn't able to take much boost due to somewhat weak rods, and rod/stroke ratio (and high compression as well). BTW, how much can be made with simple intake/exhaust mods. Remember, that I don't need things like cat convertor, or a PS pump. I am smog check immune. Are you guys getting better results with belt driven blower or turbo?

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1) Rods are good to about 150 WHP, but even that is risky. 135 WHP is safe. The 106 BHP translates to roughly 88 WHP on a stock motor.

2) The VVTi intake cam does not lend itself to n/a mods. Look to 7-10 HP for a modded intake / header / exhaust. The best setup I've seen is quad-independant throttle bodies and individual velocity stacks, but not worth the $ / HP. The ECU does not like piggyback units, best bet is a Camcom VVT controller for n/a. Lightweight pulley won't give you HP but should help rev quicker.

3) Turbo, turbo, turbo! With a built bottom end, it's holding 286 WHP, and would be an absolute monster in a Mini. Are you looking for top end or quick spool? For a stock motor, probably a Garrett GT2252 will be all you need. Dezod carries a manifold for this turbo (internal wastegate). If you need a larger T3/T4, PTuning has a mani (external wastegate). Supercharger tops out around 130 WHP and can't be upgraded easily.

 

So, I can do about 130 whp with stock bottom end with a belt driven blower, or low boost turbo without putting a rod through the block? ITB's would look and sound cool, but I'm guessing they'd be pricey. 286 whp would be a little much in the Mini. My 17 year old son drives the car to school each day, and he is a little crazy with the pushrod 1310. He just phoned me to ask how to get sticks out of the tyres. Said he missed a turn and did a little off roading..but claims he didn't do any real damage. He took it past 7,000 rpm in 1st when I was doing the parent taught behind the wheel driving. Asked how fast 5800 rpm in 4th was. So I'm guessing he took the car to 107mph. Might want to wait on the 286 whp for a while. Good kid, though. Honor student. The plan might be do the motor install, and if I need to, build another turbo motor with modded bottom end. Any gearbox mods needed? Or is it pretty strong. Also, how heavy is the flywheel. (I'm running a 10 lb one right now)

 

what vettereddie said... 150whp. Ive tested limit more times then I care to admit.

 

You just got the best answers from both blown XA and Vetteredddie. Full standalone is really the only way to go. Haltech or something equal to that. The engine has lots of capabilities, I'm dancing with the devil at 375 right now. Do it up, you have alot of knowledge between the three of us on this motor.

 

Anything over 150 bhp will have traction problems unless I can find a LSD. (Driving a Mini with over 150-bhp will feel like a trip on LSD) Any 1NZFE compatible gearbox have a limited slip diff? Do any of you know the engine and gearbox total weight and what is the highest available final drive? I plan on keeping the 10 inch wheels, although I am trading my sticky Yoko Advan 008's for much stickier AO32R's next month.

 

Quick look at Ebay shows low mileage motors for less than $1000. A high mileage (181,000) for $200. Turbo pistons for 'bout $500 for the set, and set of H beam rods for about the same. How much mullah would I need to scrape together to build a 200 bhp engine?

 

$1,200 for all internal parts, plus the cost of a donor engine / trans. You'll still need to price in a turbo system. This engine actually runs fairly well without an intercooler on the smaller turbos, and if weight / space is an issue go meth for added cooling. Stand alone may be a bit much for 150-200 HP, eManage Ult or F/IC could probably get the job done, I'm assuming you're running aftermarket fuel setup anyway. Nice thing on the 1NZ is the power steering is on a seperate belt, and if you do an A/C delete you can either free spool from an old A/C compressor or possibly run a smaller belt all-together. Check the Yaris forums for any aftermarket LSD, I know they sometimes do AutoX and might have something available.

To rebuild a bottom end you'll need:
- engine gasket set
- new head bolts
- pistons, rings
- rods
- bearings (main and rod)
- coolant / oil
- form in place gasket sealer (oil pan, lower to upper case, timing chain cover)

Crank can be reused, and stock head should also hold fine. You could possibly run a stock ECU out of an echo, not sure how the airbag sensors and other "smarts" will play into it working right. You would need to get at least the front O2 sensor to have it play nice, could probably fool the rear.

Check http://www.car-part.com for motors and trans. as well.

 

Make it easy go with Haltech for an ECU. This will leave you room to grow and tuning will be much easier, not to mention you won't need to worry about any CEL's or having to trick anything.

As far as LSD's, KAAZ makes one for the XB, XA or Yaris. Cost, 1,300.00

Good luck.

 

Sounds like my initial assumption that the 1NZFE would make a dandy swap is on target. Should end up lighter and more compact than D-series or B Series Honda. If the 286 whp is fun in a xA, just imagine how much fun it would be in a 1400 lb Mini.

 

Does it make you loose VVT?

 

These cars have VVTI, not VVT. Big difference, but to answer your question, no you do not loose VVTI. However I turned mine off. I made 375hp with-out VVTI. I was able to retard the car more without it.

 

For turbo it may be no problem since you don't want that much valve overlap as with NA. VVT makes about 12HP difference on stock motor though, so it's good to have. That's cool to know Haltech can run that feature.

 

Lets also remember that it's VVTI and not VVT, big difference. I don't want no confusion. Also there is no reason to run a standalone ecu on this motor in a N/A application. There is no significant power to made on this platform with out forced induction.

XBG

 

Also just so you know, a B series Honda will out do this 1nz-fe. Way more parts and features to be had with a B series not to mention running Hondata is amazing. You want to make power, have endless parts available to you and tunning thats a breeze? That is by far a better way to go.

Not trying to make the 1nz-fe platform sound not so good, hell I'm using it. But to start from dead scratch with a swap project...........The B series will out perform the 1nz-fe.

Food for thought. Either way good luck.

XBG

 

B-Series would be a much better engine in most cars, and there are plenty of B powered Minis. B series is also heavier, bulkier and takes more modifications to the car to make it fit. Anything over 200 bhp, and most of the guys say you really need AWD. From what I've been able to gather, about 130-150 at the wheels is plenty. Go park an xA next to a real Mini, and you'll understand how really tiny these cars are. Guys who have done the B series thing say they end up spending 5-8 grand. I'm just thinking I can make a better balanced car for a lot less.

 

I don't know about alot less, cause your still gonna be into this for at least 7-8 grand said and done.

Good turbo kit : Garrett or equal with all the goodies; BOV / WG / Intercooler / pipping : 2,000.00

Used engine 800.00

ECU : 1,800.00

Gauges: 600.00

Wiring harness: 800.00

And I can makes this list go on and this is with no labor charges on building the motor or anything. This is assuming you do all of your own work.


were at 6,000.00 right now???

XBG

 

6-8 grand is using a stock B-series. If I target power levels around 130, I think I can do the swap for a lot less. To be quite honest, 250+ whp sounds cool, but in the Mini would really be overkill. I'd like to keep it on 10" wheels. If I can get 100 whp, and not have the car break so often, leak so much oil, and drink 93 octane like a V8, I'd probably be happy. Nice to know that if I have the hankering for more, it can be done.

 

Well, if he has good luck at the salvage yard, he might be able to grab the stock ECU and harnesses from an Echo or something, and then could just use AEM F/IC or something rather than a full stand-alone. Really seams like overkill for 130 hp to use Haltech, etc. Not sure if no airbag, etc. signals would send it into a limp mode, hopefully that's separate programming.

 

So if I shoot for 130 whp, I can probably use the stock internals, a modified ECU, and either a small low boost turbo, or belt driven blower. At 1400 lbs, I'd still have a pretty good p/w ratio. A few quick measurements,and I'm pretty sure the fit inside the engine bay wouldn't be a problem. The final drive on an Echo would give me 19.1 mph per 1000 revs, which is fine. Electronics are the biggest concern.