Hey I am setting up a stereo and I am running 0ga from the battery to a dist block and 4ga to each amp. Do I need to have an inline fuse between each amp and the dist block or just run one on the 0ga at the battery? Or both?

Also what size fuzes would be appropriate? I will be running the sub amp at 1200X1 @ 1ohm and the 4 Channel amp at 75X4 @ 4 ohms. Is this enough info or do you go by the current draw of the amplifier?

Appreciate the help.

 

if your running 0 g, i would run 1 fuse w/ a circuit breaker type fuse about 80 to 100 amps 18" or less from the battery then i would run a capacitor in line then a dist block. you don't need fuse block for each amp unless you would like to.(overkill) but safe.

 

You're only running one amp so your distro block should be enough. I ran one 150amp inline fuse to each of my amps, but I was running 10 amps so that was why.

Oh, and you go by the current draw and recommended fuse. Your amp should have a manual that tells you what type of fuse to use, and more than likely your amp is already fused as well.

Kind Regards,
Matt

 

heres what i would do:

run 0ga into a 100 amp circuit breaker (as close to the battery as humanly possible)

Pick yourself up a 15 farad capacator they're on ebay for like 300$ made by alumpro

run the 0ga into that, then into a fused dist. block

if you're doin all that, might as well pick up a nice audio epicenter for the subs.


Jim

 

I am going to be running two amps. I already have a 3 farad cap that I will run. I will probably pick up a circuit breaker though that sounds like a good plan.

Appreciate the advise guys.

 

Chipper....

Some of these suggestions are way off....First off if you are running a 1200x1 and a 75x4, you are going to need a bigger circuit breaker then a 80-100. If the 1200w amp is a true 1200 watt, you will need at least 130-150.

You want to run a fuse at the batt and then run a fused distro block. The last thing you want to do is have ur 75x4w amp go down and try to blow a 150amp circuit breaker. Run a suggested fuse rating for your sub amp and the suggest rating for your loudspeaker amp. There is not such thing called overkill when you are talking about 12v and protecting your asseets. The last thing i want to see is a post from you saying you burned down your car.

For the price of a stupid cap, get a secondary battery. A upgraded alt. wouldnt be a bad idea either... Remember your factory alt is only 75amps. Your sub amp alone runs higher than that.

 

I personaly would use a fuse rather than a circuit breaker up front. circuit breakers can, from being tripped multiple times, drop their current rating below what they are rated for. but if you are popping that there is something seriously wrong. anyway 0ga. to a fuse/distrubution block in the back would be a nice steup. as for second battery, if you run your stereo for long periods of time without the vehicle on then go for it. an isolator will be needed to seperate the 2 batteries. if you don't listen to the stereo with the vehicle off much, then don't waste the money on the battery/isolator.

 

You are right, a fuse holder is alot better then a circuit breaker. I guess I was just generalizing.

The 2nd battery isnt only good for playing your audio with the car off, but a better storage for voltage then a cap. What is cheaper? a $300 cap or a compact BatCap with an isolator or relay?

 

the battery is the best for reserve time. the cap is better for (mainly bass) delievering instantanious power to an amp when it needs it the most, heavy bass notes. the cap can deliever and recharge faster than a battery. just put both in and call it a day :D .

 

if your going to waste your money on a battery, get your alternator rebuilt to 150 amps or higher. less weight besides where you going to put a battery after you mount the amps and subs.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I already have a 3 farad cap that I will be using in the system. I will also be running an Optima battery and see how that works out, if the system is still drawing too much for the car I will focus on the alternator.

It makes sense to me to protect each amp individually with their own fuses, as added protection. So I will probably run with an inline fuse or breaker at the battery and then individual fuses at the dist block for each individual amp.

Again I appreciate all the feedback from you all