5-channel amp and head unit questions
#1
5-channel amp and head unit questions
well, i have gotten tired of fighting the limitations of the stock head unit after only owning my new xb for 2 weeks. I put a sub in (pics of that in a futer post). I have a mtx tc3001 mono amp for my sub, but i just cant get a goos signal. I hate the stock head unit, it semas after a point, the bass onlonger increases with volume, also it seams that no bass gets sent to the rear speakers either
Anyway, i am wnting to replace the head unit with a decent single din until i save uo for NAV. ALso i want to get a single 5 channel amp to power everything. ANyone have any recommendations? i want to keep the steering wheel controls, I also want it to have 3 sets of preouts, as much adjustment as possible, and hopefully match the interior lighting if possible
Anyway, i am wnting to replace the head unit with a decent single din until i save uo for NAV. ALso i want to get a single 5 channel amp to power everything. ANyone have any recommendations? i want to keep the steering wheel controls, I also want it to have 3 sets of preouts, as much adjustment as possible, and hopefully match the interior lighting if possible
#2
I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I do have a kicker 5-channel amp though, I think its the 700.5 model. The amp is awesome I had it in my tercel powering a Rockford Fosgate P2 12" Sub. It had plenty of power for all of the door speakers and it really made the sub hit hard. I completely recommend that amp if you are looking for a 5-channel do-it-all kind of amp.
#3
Re: 5-channel amp and head unit questions
Originally Posted by nikbrewer
well, i have gotten tired of fighting the limitations of the stock head unit after only owning my new xb for 2 weeks. I put a sub in (pics of that in a futer post). I have a mtx tc3001 mono amp for my sub, but i just cant get a goos signal. I hate the stock head unit, it semas after a point, the bass onlonger increases with volume, also it seams that no bass gets sent to the rear speakers either
Anyway, i am wnting to replace the head unit with a decent single din until i save uo for NAV. ALso i want to get a single 5 channel amp to power everything. ANyone have any recommendations? i want to keep the steering wheel controls, I also want it to have 3 sets of preouts, as much adjustment as possible, and hopefully match the interior lighting if possible
Anyway, i am wnting to replace the head unit with a decent single din until i save uo for NAV. ALso i want to get a single 5 channel amp to power everything. ANyone have any recommendations? i want to keep the steering wheel controls, I also want it to have 3 sets of preouts, as much adjustment as possible, and hopefully match the interior lighting if possible
Check it out
www.City-Soundz.com
#5
^ LOL No kidding. I just piced up a new mb quart 5 cahnnel on e-bay for 275 shipped. Havent had a chance to get it in yet but looks to be a really nice amp. As for a head unit you are going to need something that has front read and sub outputs.
#6
Your choice of HUs is going to depend on your personal preference. There are tons of choices out there that offer Front, Rear, and Non-Fading/Sub Preouts. Find the one that has the options that you like for the price you are willing to spend and go with it.
If you are looking for a killer 5-channel amp that will power an entire system, then you really should check out JL Audio's 500/5. I did an install recently for a friend who bought one of these. This amp is fantastic for a single-system amplifier, but it is pricey.
Plan on spending well in excess of $500 for it.
If you are looking for a killer 5-channel amp that will power an entire system, then you really should check out JL Audio's 500/5. I did an install recently for a friend who bought one of these. This amp is fantastic for a single-system amplifier, but it is pricey.
Plan on spending well in excess of $500 for it.
#7
Originally Posted by Harleyguy
never seen a sales pitch wrapped around an answer.
City-Soundz.com
#9
Nice threadjack, J-dub!
How many sets of RCA pre-outs does the AVX2404 have? I tried Googling that unit, but all I find is everybody and their brother trying to sell it.
Anyway, What you would want to do if the unit has 3 sets of RCAs is to run the sets for Front and Rear to the Lanzar 4-channel, and then run the set for Non-Fading/Sub to the Kicker amp.
Connect the Remote wire from the AVX to the remote connections on both amplifiers.
Run a 4 gauge power wire from your battery, using an in-line fuse close to the battery, all the way to where you are mounting the amps. Use a distribution block to split the 4AWG out to each amplifier. Stepping the 4AWG wire down to 8 AWG is fine as long as you keep the 8AWG wire lengths to an absolute minimum. Using a fused distribution block makes it easy to troubleshoot amplifier problems should they arise in the future, but it is not absolutely necessary, especially if the amps are fused themselves.
Run another 4AWG wire for your ground, using another distribution block to bring the grounds from the amplifiers together. You can connect your 4AWG ground wire to an outside seat bolt, but you will want to grind away any paint, dirt, etc., to ensure the ground has a good connection. Otherwise, you will end up with a ground loop and induced noise. Keep your ground wire as short as possible.
Keep your signal and power/ground connections separate. Run them at opposite ends of the car if possible.
What Kicker amp are you planning on running on those 12's? Also, exactly which CVR are the 12's? ... dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm? This plays a major role in how much wattage the amp puts out, as well as whether or not the amp will even be able to handle the woofers' load.
How many sets of RCA pre-outs does the AVX2404 have? I tried Googling that unit, but all I find is everybody and their brother trying to sell it.
Anyway, What you would want to do if the unit has 3 sets of RCAs is to run the sets for Front and Rear to the Lanzar 4-channel, and then run the set for Non-Fading/Sub to the Kicker amp.
Connect the Remote wire from the AVX to the remote connections on both amplifiers.
Run a 4 gauge power wire from your battery, using an in-line fuse close to the battery, all the way to where you are mounting the amps. Use a distribution block to split the 4AWG out to each amplifier. Stepping the 4AWG wire down to 8 AWG is fine as long as you keep the 8AWG wire lengths to an absolute minimum. Using a fused distribution block makes it easy to troubleshoot amplifier problems should they arise in the future, but it is not absolutely necessary, especially if the amps are fused themselves.
Run another 4AWG wire for your ground, using another distribution block to bring the grounds from the amplifiers together. You can connect your 4AWG ground wire to an outside seat bolt, but you will want to grind away any paint, dirt, etc., to ensure the ground has a good connection. Otherwise, you will end up with a ground loop and induced noise. Keep your ground wire as short as possible.
Keep your signal and power/ground connections separate. Run them at opposite ends of the car if possible.
What Kicker amp are you planning on running on those 12's? Also, exactly which CVR are the 12's? ... dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm? This plays a major role in how much wattage the amp puts out, as well as whether or not the amp will even be able to handle the woofers' load.
#11
Originally Posted by jwaj2002
it has 4 pre outs and a single pre out for a sub
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