Alpine
#1
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Alpine
Ok, so I have my 10'' alpine type-x subwoofer laying around in my room for like 2 months now and I finally decided to buy the amplifier, wiring and capacitor for this badboy. I got the PDX 1.1000 amplifier (1000 watts rms, 3000 watts peak), with a 4 gauge rockford fosgate wiring kit and a 3 farad capacitor. My sub is also 1000 watts rms, 3000 watts peak. I just want some peoples opinion on this, I'm pretty sur I got a nice little setup.
#2
Ditch the cap. Do the Big-3. What ohm wiring are you going to be running with the sub/amp? Also, what amp do you have running to the other speakers? Most onboard amps are not going to be able to keep up with something like that. Any other components not already listed?
Last bit, that's a damn fine matching of speakers/amps. I would still ditch the cap though as they are not needed with a solid charging circuit.
Last bit, that's a damn fine matching of speakers/amps. I would still ditch the cap though as they are not needed with a solid charging circuit.
#3
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Well, I was thinking of getting a nice little alpine amp for the speakers, but as of now my head unit is a pioneer touchscreen deck and I've hook some alpine type-S 400 watt 6''1/2 speakers in the front (with the tweeters where the original small speakers were in the dash) and alpine type-R 600 watt 6''1/2 speakers in the back. As of now, the speakers are hooked to the pioneer deck, but I will be getting an amp for the speakers. What do you think I should get for my amp then for those speakers?
#4
You will love the PDX amp. I'm running a PDX-5 in my daily driver for 6 1/2 Type S front and rear and a 12" Type S sub, hooked to a CDA-105 head unit. it obviously doesn't blow the doors off with a single 300W sub but the sound quality is excellent, miles ahead of stock, and the amp is so small it installs anywhere. I would put the Type-R in the front and the S in the rear, you want a louder sound stage in the front anyway. The PDX-F4 would be nice for it, and as a bonus it's stackable so can mount right on top of or under the PDX1.1000.
You're a little small on the power wiring, 2 AWG would be better, but if you're not cranking it at max 4 AWG should be alright. Make sure the amp ground is also 4 AWG, current in = current out (minus heat loss).
You're a little small on the power wiring, 2 AWG would be better, but if you're not cranking it at max 4 AWG should be alright. Make sure the amp ground is also 4 AWG, current in = current out (minus heat loss).
#5
love the alpine but pretty sure 1000 RMS-true wattage will straight kill that 10... maybe not its said to handle 500-1000. dang that should be a beast. what ohm load are you going to run?
#6
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I'm new to this kind of stuff so I don't know what you mean by the OHM? like 4 ohm or 2 ohm? I know what they are but whats best? lol ANd for the wiring, I was told that 4 guage was perfect for this setup.... Because I was going to go with 0 guage wiring, but I was told it was too big for nothing....
#8
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Alright, I'll check it ou when I install this stuff. First time I'll hook up an amp. Good thing I'll have lots of beer and a pizzeria right around the corner XD I'll post a video once its installed, it'll probably be next week sometime, before my carshow the 28th
#9
I believe the PDX line does the same wattage in 4 and 2 ohm. I currently have the PDX-4.150 and just ordered the 1.600. Get the 2.150 and a decent set of components, I recommend the CDT CL-61 at woofersetc.com, and you'll be set.
#10
Keeping the amps of the same type/manufacturer will always look better in shows. So stick with the Alpine PDX amps. Something like Mononoxide said 2.150 would be a great option for the fronts. You might want a a couple 2.150s for all four channels... but with that kind of power, you won't hear much from the rear speakers so it's almost pointless.
Get a good set of components or a nice matched set for the fronts. You could get a set of CDT components, or specifically get some mid-woofers. What I did was go with a set of JL TR components with upgraded silk domes for the dash. Now I'm running a set of 4" TR coax in the dash and kept the midwoofers in the door. I'm not sure if the Alpine 4" would fit though, it has a taller top depth.
Get a good set of components or a nice matched set for the fronts. You could get a set of CDT components, or specifically get some mid-woofers. What I did was go with a set of JL TR components with upgraded silk domes for the dash. Now I'm running a set of 4" TR coax in the dash and kept the midwoofers in the door. I'm not sure if the Alpine 4" would fit though, it has a taller top depth.
#11
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Keeping the amps of the same type/manufacturer will always look better in shows. So stick with the Alpine PDX amps. Something like Mononoxide said 2.150 would be a great option for the fronts. You might want a a couple 2.150s for all four channels... but with that kind of power, you won't hear much from the rear speakers so it's almost pointless.
Get a good set of components or a nice matched set for the fronts. You could get a set of CDT components, or specifically get some mid-woofers. What I did was go with a set of JL TR components with upgraded silk domes for the dash. Now I'm running a set of 4" TR coax in the dash and kept the midwoofers in the door. I'm not sure if the Alpine 4" would fit though, it has a taller top depth.
Get a good set of components or a nice matched set for the fronts. You could get a set of CDT components, or specifically get some mid-woofers. What I did was go with a set of JL TR components with upgraded silk domes for the dash. Now I'm running a set of 4" TR coax in the dash and kept the midwoofers in the door. I'm not sure if the Alpine 4" would fit though, it has a taller top depth.
#12
A quick note on the PDX though, Apline is in the middle of a design revision. The older 1.1000 is black with silver trim, however the newer PDX-F line is all black w/ assorted colored trim rings. I'm not sure if the regular and F line are compatible for stacking, you'd need to check w/ alpine.
PDX1.1000
PDX-F4
Something else to consider, these amps are small enough to mount in the rear quarter window. You can either build your own window rack, or buy one from Audioformz. Little pricey for me but they look good.
DIY solution:
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f23/amp...gen-24083.html
Commercial solution from Audioformz
http://www.audioformz.com/xbrack.asp
#14
Good luck with the install, looking forward to see how it turns out. I'll be starting mine soon; got the 1.600 last night and am waiting on the subs. I think I boo-booed on my wire though... the RMS wattage is 1200w and I'll be running it to the hatch... I shoulda gotten bigger then 4ga.
#15
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Nah, I think you got some good wiring. 4 gauge wire is usually good for systems up to 3500 watts to 4000 watts peak if I'm not mistaken. ANd if you get Rockford Fosgate wiring, you get the best. Thats what I got and the copper is just amazing, the wiring is actually full of copper, it doesn't have like 2 inches of insulation.
#16
According to the calculator at bcae1.com (awesome site) I'm right at the border line if I'm pulling full RMS power. I think I should be ok, as I don't plan on pushing the system hard very often. I have the Kolossus FleKs from knukonceptz, as well as their Karma RCA cables. I've always been happy with their products in the past.
#17
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Oh, I didn't read your post right, I though it was 1200 watts peak, but its RMS, mybad. So yeah, 1200 watts rms is like 3500 watts peak, so you're borderline like the site says, because mine's 1000 watts rms, 3000 watts peak and its perfect for me.
#18
Got anything installed yet? I got my 1.600 the other day, the test sheet says 666 watts RMS. I'm going to try to get some stuff in this weekend since I have 4 days off. The pile of ish I have in front of me is a little daunting.
#20
I got my stuff thrown in over the holiday. It sounds great, but I'm not happy with the install. I plan on ditching the spare and putting everything in the floor. Betcha can't guess where the 2 eD 8s were...
Never use fleece for speaker box covering, no matter how tempting. at least it was free.
Never use fleece for speaker box covering, no matter how tempting. at least it was free.