Best subwoofer for 1st gen xB?
#1
Best subwoofer for 1st gen xB?
Ok, so I just got another toaster (yay me!) and I've been putting a lot into the audio system, since we all know, stock sucks >_<
I kept some stuff from my old car, so I'll tell you what I installed NEW, then what I installed that I already had.
New stuff:
Pioneer AVH-3300BT Deck (This thing is awesome!)
Alpine Type S 6 1/2" door speakers
Cheapo Pioneer 5 1/4 in the back (My sub drowns these out, so I basically just put something there that wouldn't explode)
Old stuff:
Digital Designs 2500 12" in ported box
Crunch 1500w amp for sub
Crunch 1000w amp for mids/highs
Ok, now on to my point.
My highs are freaking incredible, no doubt about it... they hurt.
My sub used to sit in the trunk of my Honda Accord, and sounded absolutely retardedly loud, with some of the craziest SPL I ever heard from a single 12" sub. In my Scion? Sounds like sh*t.
It was so bad I pulled it out. I know something is wrong with the sub, some guys at the local audio shop told me the cone is coming detached from the surround. Combine that with a rattling interior, and it's no fun.
I'm calling in the warranty on it, and then I am selling it. I've decided I want more quality than SPL.
But I DO still want great SPL.
What are some good recommendations for a single sub that I can have for under $400 in a box that will outperform my DD sub in both SPL and SQ? If there is one, anyway. I've looked into a possibility of an Alpine Type R or Type X, or maybe even a pair of Type R 10"s, but I'm not sure 10"s will deliver the SPL I want in a Scion.
Everyone, please, fire away, and throw out some good suggestions that can really take a beating. Bonus points if they can complement my 1500w amp and put it to some good use.
I kept some stuff from my old car, so I'll tell you what I installed NEW, then what I installed that I already had.
New stuff:
Pioneer AVH-3300BT Deck (This thing is awesome!)
Alpine Type S 6 1/2" door speakers
Cheapo Pioneer 5 1/4 in the back (My sub drowns these out, so I basically just put something there that wouldn't explode)
Old stuff:
Digital Designs 2500 12" in ported box
Crunch 1500w amp for sub
Crunch 1000w amp for mids/highs
Ok, now on to my point.
My highs are freaking incredible, no doubt about it... they hurt.
My sub used to sit in the trunk of my Honda Accord, and sounded absolutely retardedly loud, with some of the craziest SPL I ever heard from a single 12" sub. In my Scion? Sounds like sh*t.
It was so bad I pulled it out. I know something is wrong with the sub, some guys at the local audio shop told me the cone is coming detached from the surround. Combine that with a rattling interior, and it's no fun.
I'm calling in the warranty on it, and then I am selling it. I've decided I want more quality than SPL.
But I DO still want great SPL.
What are some good recommendations for a single sub that I can have for under $400 in a box that will outperform my DD sub in both SPL and SQ? If there is one, anyway. I've looked into a possibility of an Alpine Type R or Type X, or maybe even a pair of Type R 10"s, but I'm not sure 10"s will deliver the SPL I want in a Scion.
Everyone, please, fire away, and throw out some good suggestions that can really take a beating. Bonus points if they can complement my 1500w amp and put it to some good use.
#3
Why not try the DD after it's repaired, maybe in a different box? What's the RMS of your amp at what ohm loads? Max ratings aren't very helpful. What about an SSA Xcon or 2 Sundown SA-12s if you have the space and power? You might get more help on a dedicated car audio site.
#7
Like I said in original post, it's a 12"
I've tried all degrees of tuning, but for general purposes (ie a variety of music) I found 80hz-100hz to be optimal. But, like I said, the sub is damaged, likely due to Best Buy employees doing it wrong (I let them run the wiring and install the stuff because I just had a LOT to do and didn't feel like doing it). Their initial tune sounded like crap and definitely pushed the sub to the point of heavy distortion, I'm pretty sure that's what did it in.
In my old car that sub took the amp @ 75% power all day long and just rocked. It was in the trunk, firing toward the back of the car, so that masked distortion and noise. I think I just want more SQ now, since I can hear the sub more.
I've tried all degrees of tuning, but for general purposes (ie a variety of music) I found 80hz-100hz to be optimal. But, like I said, the sub is damaged, likely due to Best Buy employees doing it wrong (I let them run the wiring and install the stuff because I just had a LOT to do and didn't feel like doing it). Their initial tune sounded like crap and definitely pushed the sub to the point of heavy distortion, I'm pretty sure that's what did it in.
In my old car that sub took the amp @ 75% power all day long and just rocked. It was in the trunk, firing toward the back of the car, so that masked distortion and noise. I think I just want more SQ now, since I can hear the sub more.
#8
I have 1 fi btl n2 12 in my Tc in a ported box on a jbl 1500 rms amp and it absolutely slams and needs way more power than it gets. Also have very good sq. I think they r 380$ without the upgrades mine was 440$ shipped fully loaded. Also if u want better sq I'd stay away from crunch IMO. Never been metered but I'd say it atleast High 130s low 140s
#9
I have 1 fi btl n2 12 in my Tc in a ported box on a jbl 1500 rms amp and it absolutely slams and needs way more power than it gets. Also have very good sq. I think they r 380$ without the upgrades mine was 440$ shipped fully loaded. Also if u want better sq I'd stay away from crunch IMO. Never been metered but I'd say it atleast High 130s low 140s
#11
Pretty sure he was referring to the cubic feet of the box and what hertz the port was tuned to. If it was a prefab box, then there's a 99% chance that it was the wrong box for the sub. The box can make or break the sub. Before shelling out the cash for a new sub, I'd try the warranty replaced DD in a box built to it's specifications.
#12
Pretty sure he was referring to the cubic feet of the box and what hertz the port was tuned to. If it was a prefab box, then there's a 99% chance that it was the wrong box for the sub. The box can make or break the sub. Before shelling out the cash for a new sub, I'd try the warranty replaced DD in a box built to it's specifications.
#13
Pretty sure he was referring to the cubic feet of the box and what hertz the port was tuned to. If it was a prefab box, then there's a 99% chance that it was the wrong box for the sub. The box can make or break the sub. Before shelling out the cash for a new sub, I'd try the warranty replaced DD in a box built to it's specifications.
if you understand the T&S parameters
ported IMO is the WTG
#14
#15
yes, i was referring to box size and tuning. if you are looking for a sub that sounds good and still gets pretty loud, check out the FI Q. Will take 1k watts no problem and works well in a ported or sealed box depending on what options you get
#16
Ah, ok. The box probably works just fine then. How were your gains set? They may have been set too high and sending a clipped signal... about the only way to kill a DD.
#17
Well, I have a remote gain set up so I can tune it while I drive, but the max power was 70% of the amp power, no additional gain or bass boost from the deck or amp, attempted tunings from 40hz to 100hz.
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