dynamat any tips and pics
#21
Originally Posted by drew05xb
How about everybody post the amount of sq ft they used sound deadening and what they were able to cover with it?
I'd hate to buy too much and end up having to install like 3 layers of the stuff.
#23
Dynamat's also useful for other things, like 'crap that part rattles now, how do I fix it?'. Solution: stuff a wad of dynamat under it. It also makes a good replacement for that gunk under the water seal plastic.
*must rip apart box and dynamat more, after purchasing more stereo @.@*
*must rip apart box and dynamat more, after purchasing more stereo @.@*
#25
dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
#27
Originally Posted by powhound84
dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
#31
I have now down double layer on the entire floor of my xB. I have also done almost all of my hatch. Next plan is the doors and firewall..then move up to the headliner. I love dynamat. I also like the 70% (or more) I get off the price of dynamat. I dont have to skimp to do it right!
Of course, most dont plan on running 3000+ of subs and speakers. I cant wait to wire that!
Of course, most dont plan on running 3000+ of subs and speakers. I cant wait to wire that!
#34
Originally Posted by powhound84
dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
*this comment based on what I've heard about 'peel n seal' being used in a car, not actual experiance.
#35
I'm working on a Mazda 6 right now and I have put 180 sq. ft. in so far and haven't even touched the doors yet. probablly put 20 sq. ft. per door (20 sq. ft. = 1 package, 10 sheets of 1' X 2') by the way I am using the Tsunami Silencer foil backed.
#36
Originally Posted by mavrichie
Make sure to do the doors too...
Uhh... what happens if you have to service the window regulator or the lock mechanism? If Dynomat is like B-Quiet Extreme, it is a pain to remove. Imagine if you try and get it fixed under warranty... you'll probably get charged for the tech having to mess around with that stuff. Same thing goes will all the people that cover up the fuel pump access panel.
Something to consider...
#37
One tip I have is that if you Dynomat anything, be prepared to Dynomat other places also. I Recently redid the stereo in my car and dynomated the trunk from the rear seats to the bumper. My brother and sister in law warned me that after you dynomat in one place others will rattle and squeak. Funny enough two monthes later I am getting rattles from the b-pillar behind the driverside. A slight rattle from the passenger side door and a few other rattles. I don't mind them much, but I could swear they weren't there before the Dynomat was put in.
Use a nice sharp pair of scissors and wear gloves if possible. You can cut yourself on the edges of Dynomat.
As far as the smell, at least for Dynomat, the car smells like it did before. The bass seems much more tight, I don't have as much of the road noise from wet pavement, and my exhaust is very quiet compared to what it used to be.
You can pull apart the rear interior of the car in less then an hour if you are a half a$$ like myself. It is a time consuming thing though so make sure you get a rental or another car together if you are going to do more then just the trunk area.
Use a nice sharp pair of scissors and wear gloves if possible. You can cut yourself on the edges of Dynomat.
As far as the smell, at least for Dynomat, the car smells like it did before. The bass seems much more tight, I don't have as much of the road noise from wet pavement, and my exhaust is very quiet compared to what it used to be.
You can pull apart the rear interior of the car in less then an hour if you are a half a$$ like myself. It is a time consuming thing though so make sure you get a rental or another car together if you are going to do more then just the trunk area.
#38
Uhh... what happens if you have to service the window regulator or the lock mechanism? If Dynomat is like B-Quiet Extreme, it is a pain to remove. Imagine if you try and get it fixed under warranty... you'll probably get charged for the tech having to mess around with that stuff. Same thing goes will all the people that cover up the fuel pump access panel.
Something to consider...
Something to consider...
#39
There is really no reason at all to mass load anything but your doors, trunk lid, and roof. Everything else is rigid enough that it won't vibrate, so you want to use something like carpet pad or whatever to muffle road noise. OEMs know this, that's why there's padding above your headliner and below the carpet.
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09-15-2015 03:38 PM