Is Dynamat worth it?
08-15-2006, 11:42 PM
#1
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Is Dynamat worth it?
After getting my speakers replaced and an amp installed it sounds MUCH better but the installer recommened Dynamat in the front doors. It's not that it sounds bad right now at all, but it does rattle when it's cranked LOUD. The installer said that it would improve the bass even at lower volumes because it makes it have an "enclosure" so he put it as if it will improve the overall sound in addition to limit the door vibration.
He said it would cost $160 for both doors to get done.
Is that worth it? Is the difference that noticeable?
He said it would cost $160 for both doors to get done.
Is that worth it? Is the difference that noticeable?
08-16-2006, 12:05 AM
#3
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Cool. I'm very hesitant to do anything myself lol.
But from a quality standpoint, is using Dynamat all that? Does it really do everything they say that makes it worth the trouble?
I'd hate to either spend the $$ or time getting it installed only to notice a minimal difference.
But from a quality standpoint, is using Dynamat all that? Does it really do everything they say that makes it worth the trouble?
I'd hate to either spend the $$ or time getting it installed only to notice a minimal difference.
08-16-2006, 12:14 AM
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Dynamat(and its similar competitors) are worth it... makes lots of difference interms of audio quality, less road noise, and gives the doors that nice solid sound when shutting, instead of that hollow "im a week" sound....
i have about 75sqft (or whatever size the dynamat extreme bulk pack is) on 4 doors, rear floor and all over the storage and some on the hatch.... that made lots of improvement
just recently added a layer of edead liquid sound deading all over the floor boards front&rear, and b-pillars... that made another noticiable improvement
i have about 75sqft (or whatever size the dynamat extreme bulk pack is) on 4 doors, rear floor and all over the storage and some on the hatch.... that made lots of improvement
just recently added a layer of edead liquid sound deading all over the floor boards front&rear, and b-pillars... that made another noticiable improvement
08-16-2006, 12:15 AM
#5
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It makes a HUGE difference, my girlfriend (Toyota_kitten) has 2 1/2 bulk boxes in her xB and its so nice sounding, you cant hear anything rattle, (except her loose speaker) but other than that it makes a huge difference compared to an xB with none.
08-16-2006, 12:30 AM
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Your installer is correct, but there are other sound damping materials available for DIY at a better price than dynamat...
For $160 and a couple of days' sweat, you can do all 4 doors, the rear hatch, quarter panels and storage compt floor in raammat bxt and ensolite, for example... or just the front doors in the better grade of edead or damplifier or some other butyl based product for a lot less...
Check out the sticky at the top of the page to see how it's done.... it's not rocket science.
For $160 and a couple of days' sweat, you can do all 4 doors, the rear hatch, quarter panels and storage compt floor in raammat bxt and ensolite, for example... or just the front doors in the better grade of edead or damplifier or some other butyl based product for a lot less...
Check out the sticky at the top of the page to see how it's done.... it's not rocket science.
08-16-2006, 01:12 AM
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about how much weight does the general sound deadening add ? i'm researching this mod and am concerened about the performance aspect of it. i heard that some people when adding all the insulation have added maybe 50 pounds to the car ...
08-16-2006, 04:10 AM
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Even the beefiest mat, damplifier pro, only weighs .5 lb/sq ft, and the others generally run .3-.4...
So it really takes a lot of it to become significant... violent_b's install uses about twice what most people would consider total overkill, and still likely weighs less than 150 lbs... like having a passenger all the time...
So it really takes a lot of it to become significant... violent_b's install uses about twice what most people would consider total overkill, and still likely weighs less than 150 lbs... like having a passenger all the time...
08-16-2006, 04:25 AM
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yeah... for those doing big systems... the wieght of the sound deadener doesnt compete with the wieght of the subs, boxes etc... and some boxes remove the spare.... so it almost balances out......almost... lol
figure each box of deadener will probably tell you how much it weighs anyway...
figure each box of deadener will probably tell you how much it weighs anyway...
08-16-2006, 04:37 AM
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If it's good enough for Chip Foose, it's good enough for me.
Dynamat Extreme:
1. Quiets the flimsy sheet metal
2. Creates a baffle to help isolate the rear wave of the speaker.
3. Creates a thermal barrier to help insulate the vehicle from heat and cold.
Dynasorb will cancel the rear wave of the speakers and give you a true audiophile sound quality.
If you want to save on weight, then do the doors only.
I recommend the doors, under the rear seat, the cargo area, floor and hatch. And also the ceiling. The more you can cover, the better the product works. If you do the full set up in an xB, you will drop the sound floor over 12dB! You would have to either double you amplifier power or your woofer cone area just get another 3dB! With the car quieter, the system will sound louder. You will also be able to hear the subtle nuances in the music your listening to that you never even new were there.
Dynamat Extreme:
1. Quiets the flimsy sheet metal
2. Creates a baffle to help isolate the rear wave of the speaker.
3. Creates a thermal barrier to help insulate the vehicle from heat and cold.
Dynasorb will cancel the rear wave of the speakers and give you a true audiophile sound quality.
If you want to save on weight, then do the doors only.
I recommend the doors, under the rear seat, the cargo area, floor and hatch. And also the ceiling. The more you can cover, the better the product works. If you do the full set up in an xB, you will drop the sound floor over 12dB! You would have to either double you amplifier power or your woofer cone area just get another 3dB! With the car quieter, the system will sound louder. You will also be able to hear the subtle nuances in the music your listening to that you never even new were there.
08-16-2006, 05:40 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by KingOfAllCarAudio
If it's good enough for Chip Foose, it's good enough for me.
Dynamat Extreme:
1. Quiets the flimsy sheet metal
2. Creates a baffle to help isolate the rear wave of the speaker.
3. Creates a thermal barrier to help insulate the vehicle from heat and cold.
Dynasorb will cancel the rear wave of the speakers and give you a true audiophile sound quality.
If you want to save on weight, then do the doors only.
I recommend the doors, under the rear seat, the cargo area, floor and hatch. And also the ceiling. The more you can cover, the better the product works. If you do the full set up in an xB, you will drop the sound floor over 12dB! You would have to either double you amplifier power or your woofer cone area just get another 3dB! With the car quieter, the system will sound louder. You will also be able to hear the subtle nuances in the music your listening to that you never even new were there.
Dynamat Extreme:
1. Quiets the flimsy sheet metal
2. Creates a baffle to help isolate the rear wave of the speaker.
3. Creates a thermal barrier to help insulate the vehicle from heat and cold.
Dynasorb will cancel the rear wave of the speakers and give you a true audiophile sound quality.
If you want to save on weight, then do the doors only.
I recommend the doors, under the rear seat, the cargo area, floor and hatch. And also the ceiling. The more you can cover, the better the product works. If you do the full set up in an xB, you will drop the sound floor over 12dB! You would have to either double you amplifier power or your woofer cone area just get another 3dB! With the car quieter, the system will sound louder. You will also be able to hear the subtle nuances in the music your listening to that you never even new were there.
08-16-2006, 04:45 PM
#15
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I agree with the sentiments to DIY....
I personally would go with edead from elemental designs....I have ~120 sq ft of edead v1se and ~20 sq vt of edead v4 in my box....the stuff works great!
minimally I would do your doors and seal them up...that should take ~30-40 sq ft if you do outermost part....back of inner sheet metal and innermost part....
I also reccoment the v4 from ed...it helps manage higher frequency noises such as road noise...I was scepticall..but did notice quite the improvement...
for 160 bucks with the forum discount code eDeadBA you could get:
90 sq vt eDead vs1e
and 30 sq ft eDead v4
just know that it takes a helluva long time to install...but our scoins are easier than legos to take apart :D
-Tyler
I personally would go with edead from elemental designs....I have ~120 sq ft of edead v1se and ~20 sq vt of edead v4 in my box....the stuff works great!
minimally I would do your doors and seal them up...that should take ~30-40 sq ft if you do outermost part....back of inner sheet metal and innermost part....
I also reccoment the v4 from ed...it helps manage higher frequency noises such as road noise...I was scepticall..but did notice quite the improvement...
for 160 bucks with the forum discount code eDeadBA you could get:
90 sq vt eDead vs1e
and 30 sq ft eDead v4
just know that it takes a helluva long time to install...but our scoins are easier than legos to take apart :D
-Tyler
08-16-2006, 05:17 PM
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Actually Road noise in the 100 Hz range which is low frequency and damn near impossible to eliminate. Reduce, yes, but the free air resonance of your vehicle has an inherent "hum" from the tires rolling on the ground. Most "road" noise emanates from the floor of the car, especially the cargo area floor. Be sure to attack this as well as the doors.
I’m sure eDesign has great product, but Dynamat is the originator and still the authority on sound deadening.
I’m sure eDesign has great product, but Dynamat is the originator and still the authority on sound deadening.
08-16-2006, 05:28 PM
#17
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Bump for RAAMAT. great stuff and much cheaper than ED/DYN for an equivelant product. All 3 have incredible customer serviceBut at a minimum, the rear hatch and floorboard produces exponential results. And its EASY, even for a rocket scientist.
08-16-2006, 10:26 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by KingOfAllCarAudio
Actually Road noise in the 100 Hz range which is low frequency and damn near impossible to eliminate. Reduce, yes, but the free air resonance of your vehicle has an inherent "hum" from the tires rolling on the ground.
yes, thats why I said manage road noise.... :D
-Tyler
