Hmmm maybe... I have no idea for I had this shop wire it back up when they wired all my leds up... sooo i guess i'll have to check... thanks... sooo what about the light not coming on with the doors? Is that gonna have to be replaced w ith a new relay?

 

I think that you probably should just try to get a new domelight I would try the canadian guy if you aren't in a hurry. I'm still waiting for him to tell me how to pay him. as for your bulbs not working it is very possible they blew also try to stick them in the other way the dirrection (polarity) does matter with led's but not with regular bulbs. if after you get a new dome lightfixture with working switch it still won't come on with doors then you will need a door lock control relay as well.

 

Seeing this thread makes me want to NOT wire my LED lights to the dome light....

Could this have been prevented by removing the FUSE during "installation" of the leds? I'm thinking, to prevent something like this happeneing, install / wire the LEDs and then, when you want to test them out, install the fuse and then see if the dome light turns on/off...?

I'm scared...



- sh00k

 

It appears that I have joined the fried controller club. While accepting that I must have touched the wrong contacts during my installation of map lights (out of a Paseo) I am confused as to why this would have freaked the controller. Shorting the constant hot blue-yellow to direct ground would pop the 15 amp fuse; shorting red-yellow to ground is just a ground to ground and shouldn’t hurt anything; blue-yellow to red-yellow is just a circuit and shouldn’t hurt anything either.

Possibly the red-yellow is more than a ground. For it to fry I suspect it “throws” a hot and it is the connection to a balancing hot that commences the dimming mechanism.

Be that as it may. How have the other victims resolved this? Junkyard dogs? Grin and bear it?

Would any of the visitors to the board from Japan or elsewhere feel up to finding out the price of this part in Japan or perhaps directly from DENSO? http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/

 

The red-yellow wire to the overhead light comes from the "door lock control relay."

That lead is connected to a solid state device in the conroller (call it a transistor) that provides a "variable ground" and has a very limited power handling capacity (my guess is maybe 10-12 watts).

If you connect battery + to that lead directly instead of through the limiting resistance of the dome light bulb, you totally fry that little solid state blob. Many LED "bulbs" act just like a short circuit when connected backwards...

That transistor is not designed to take 15+amps of 12 VDC through it (180+ watts!), and it would be almost impossible for that to happen without a human being making the wrong connection - that means that there is NO protection for the transistor built into the design.

When the doors are open, and the door lock controller has power to it, that transistor is doing it's best to imitate a short circuit. It's trying to deliver as close to a zero resistance ground to the dome light bulb as possible. Hit it with a straight 12VDC at that time and ZAP! It's toast.

Welcome to the "Fried Controller Club," please have your $425 ready at the door...

 

I musta got lucky when I did my aftermarket domelight upgrade. I used a test light and connected wires everywhich way. I ended up having to make sure the light housing didn't ground inorder for the light to do it's thing when you close the doors.

 

there is a guy in canada parting out some xb's i bought my relay from him for 50 bucks (including shipping). he did still have one available when i last talked to him

 

I know this sounds really stupid but give the board a good wiff. When I was fixing PC's in high school sometimes motherboards would burn up but everything looked ok. But if you smelled the board it has like a sour burnt electric smell. It might be hard to smell because the components are so small but its worth a try and its free lol. GOOD LUCK.

im nervous a little bit too now because I JUST ordered leds for the O-Sh*t handles.

 

I own a 2005 Toyota BB which is essentially identical to US market Scion xB. I live in New Zealand, so my vehicle is a left hand drive version. Please allow me to revive this thread...

Looks like I fried my door lock relay as well after replacing my dome light standard bulb for an LED. As this is a well documented issue (if only I'd known BEFORE I put the LED in...) I found the recommended fix/workaround. So I added a 2A fuse in the DL wiring, found a replacement door lock relay on fleabay, put it in and everything works... Except for the key remotes.

The remote batteries are good, so I tried running the "add key fob" procedure (as detailed in 2005 Scion XB Remote Programming instructions). I run through it and it all goes well up until step 10 - I run into the practical issue that I'm supposed to press lock/unlock buttons on keyfob simultaneously, but my key (toyota original)... only has ONE button. I cannot seem to figure out how to have my car recognize the remote.

Any thoughts?