Max2k

First up, if you screw up it ain't my fault. Now, on to the instructions.

Materials:

1x cold cathode light kit (transformer, lights, switch, etc etc. I used these) These should run you anywhere from $6-15 a set for 2 lights.

Wire connectors (vector or something, i forgot what kind. look at the pictures. hopefully someone will post the correct name.)

Needle Nose Pliers

Wire Cutters

Thick copper wire, insulated.

Electrical Tape

Duct Tape

So first you're going to get all your tools and materials together to ready all your stuff before you put it into the car.

So here's what we have thus far:

Cold Cathode Kit



Note the 2 plastic plugs. From now on the plug on the left will be referred to as plug A and the one on the right will be plug B.

Tools:



To ready your ligts, you want to follow these steps:

1. Pull the black wire leading from the transformer to plug A out of plug A. Attach a male end wire connector to the end of it.

2. A red wire from the transformer combines with a yellow wire that leads from plug A to plug B to form one pin in plug A. Pull the 2 wires out of plug A. The 2 wires should be joined with a pin that sticks out. Tape that pin to the side of the wire. This sounds confusing, but look at the pictures. Attach a male connector to the end of the yellow wire. (you're going to have to shave a bit off the side of the connector to fit it into the car's power source, you can do this with your wire cutters.

3. Cut a 1' length of your copper wire and strip both ends of it about an inch back. Attach a female connector on one end. Leave the other end open.

Max2k

Here's another picture of how your wires should look before you put your lights into the car:

Note the connector on the yellow wire has a bit of the side shaved off.

Max2k

Arrgh; none of my photos are working, so here's a link to the album:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287566449

Max2k

OK that link isn't working, so y'all will just have to do without for the time being. I'm going to fix this tonight, just hold tight and i'll finish the step-by-step instructions and put up the photos of how to do it.

xvolcomx88

the pics from the first 2 threads work but you gotta copy and paste the link to see the pics.

one80ikyu

imagestation. enough said.

DenZinz

Thick copper wire? You must be an home electrician by trade, because hard core copper wires don't belong in 12volts.

Duct tape!? Isn't that used for drag racing

KingLou

That's what I used it for.........drag racing. I lost......but I still feel it gave me an edge.

KiL

mikeluvsjo

i dont know if this was already mentioned bbecause i already put in cold cathodes and i am not going to read all of this but i just wanted to say the make sure you dont extend the wires from the inverter to the cold cathode tubes, this will greatly reduce the brightness of the light.
i have daytime photos if anyone wants to see them my night ones are

Max2k

OK, so we're ready to install our under-dash lighting.

First you're going to want to take off the panel at the bottom of the control tower. There's a passenger-side button you'll have to pull out.



This is what you're going to be looking at:



Now you're going to find your power source. Reach up into the dash cavity near the center and feel around until you find a plug like this:



That's going to be your power source. (Note: this is the foglight relay, which means that it doesn't get power when you have the headlights on. If you want power when the headlights are on you can run a fused wire (10amps will support all the cold cathodes you can fit) directly off the battery).

Munch

That's the plug I used for my fog lights :D.

Max2k

You're going to put your red wire into that plug, like this. Remember to shave the side off so it'll fit.:



(don't be alarmed, the picture was taken without wires attached)

Now you're going to ground the inverter. Take your copper wire and attach the opened end (without the female connector) to a piece of exposed structural metal under the drivers' side dash by loosening a bolt and attaching the wire under the bolt. This will involve laying on your back in the footwell and peering up into the dash.

Max2k

Note: I forgot to show how to prepare the switch. Basically you're going to reach behind the dashboard and pop out one of those 3 little plates. Next, find the middle of it and drill a 3/4" hole.



The Mad Sciontists say: remember your safety glasses! You can't see lights with no eyes...

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You have to make a little notch in the side of the hole to accomodate the switch. A small file turned on edge works well here.

This is what your switch/plate should look like.



Now that your switch is made, go back outside and resume lighting your car.

Max2k

OK, now everything should be plugged in. It's time to install your switch. (patience now, you'll be able to flip them on in a minute.)

Run your red/yellow wire up into the dash and attach them to your switch like this:



Now snap the little plate into its hole. It'll look like this:



(note: picture taken after installation was done, just note the switch)

Now's the fun part, you get to turn on your cathodes!



Stare at them for a couple minutes, flip 'em on and off for fun. Then; back to work!

Max2k

The last step before placing your cathode tubes is securing the inverter. Basically, you're just putting it somewhere where it won't rattle and the lights will reach. There's a convenient spot in between a couple air ducts where you can just wedge it in.



Here's where your duct tape comes in: slap some tape on that sucker for extra security.



Putting your tubes in is pretty easy, just use the sticky mounting pads and zip ties that come with the cathode kit. They stick under the dash pretty easily.

*Note: If you dont want light to shine up through the dashboard, you can use reflective tape on one side of the cathodes. Not only will this keep the light out of the dash, it will double the intensity of the light on your feet.

All you have to do now is replace the guard panel on the bottom and clean up your tools.

Max2k

The last step before placing your cathode tubes is securing the inverter. Basically, you're just putting it somewhere where it won't rattle and the lights will reach. There's a convenient spot in between a couple air ducts where you can just wedge it in.



Here's where your duct tape comes in: slap some tape on that sucker for extra security.



Putting your tubes in is pretty easy, just use the sticky mounting pads and zip ties that come with the cathode kit. They stick under the dash pretty easily.

*Note: If you dont want light to shine up through the dashboard, you can use reflective tape on one side of the cathodes. Not only will this keep the light out of the dash, it will double the intensity of the light on your feet.

All you have to do now is replace the guard panel on the bottom and clean up your tools.

drandolph

I did the exact same thing in my xA. I got my lights from frys electronics in the computer case section. The only thing i did different is instead of wiring up the power from where the fog lights are, I wired it up to the cig lighter and put the transformer behind the ash tray and then the cords reached just fine to each tube on either side. I'm glad to see someone else figured it out and took photos of it. Good job

Sid_xBicious

so is that the foglight plug/harness? is it already "hot" i mean already powered? so no need for relay right?
thanks,
sid

randode

iTrader: (-2)

yeah, i allready wrote the how-to article last september https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...t=cold+cathode

heres a wiring diagram to make it easier.

drandolph

Sorry I missed it. Wow 3 different people coming up with the same great idea and then posting it. Is this a new trend? I hope so ;)