hey -
on my switch there are only 2 wires connected, all it does is interrupt the power coming in. Or, you could switch the ground, either way.

If I remember correctly, the yellow was the +12v to battery to one leg of the switch. Red comes off the other leg of the switch and then into the little converter box. Ground is ground and just grounds to any good metal, no need to bring it all the way back to the power source...

I'm going out of memory here, but I think that's right. If that don't sound right ask a Q and I'll go look at my car..

- Saylor

 

It makes sense...but I cut out the small switch that came with the kit entirely...leaving the black and red out of the converter...

I have an extra...which maybe I should just use...

Or is it, that I connect one to the power (main), and one to the load...and the ground just coming off the switch???

Have I confused you yet???

Sorry for all this...but I really appreciate the help!!!

 

There is a black and red that come off the converter box...and a yellow and red off the switch...I wanted to use my own switch...so I cut coming out of the converter...

I'm starting to confuse myself now...ugh...good thing I have two of everything...

I may start over...

 

some electrician help us please!
I think, I'm not sure, but maybe that line/load/ground applies only to AC current?? I dunno...

If it's a 2 - position switch - on/off - one that toggles side to side but does not have a 'center' position, then you should bring power to one side, and the middle to the device. That will give you on/off IMO.

- Saylor

 

OK...that makes sense...I guess the only issue now is on the cathodes...

If I leave it like you did...with ths switch intact, and cutting out the molex connectors...how did you cut them out and connect them to power...there is a red and black coming from the inverter...and a yellow red coming from the switch...where did you cut, and which did you splice?

Yellow to power...black to ground???

 

OK OK I went out and looked at what I had done.
I have told you wrong in my earlier post today - I wasn't sure, so I went and checked it out - at least I told you I wasn't sure when I posted earlier
I edited that post...


so Check it out -
the red & black wires from the inverter, just extend those using the same colors, I used some radio shack wire 18ga or 20ga.

The red/black wire pair from the inverter,, black to ground, red to one side leg of switch.

Your incoming power goes to the other side of the switch, so when you throw the switch, the power goes across and to the other side, where the lights wire is connected ... see - the switch is in between your power. a break in the middle of the line that you control...

I just cut off the molex connectors with snips and then made splices.

On extending the cathode tube wiring,,, mark a side, it matters which side is which,,, if you cross the wires the bulbs only light up half bright!

- Saylor

 

Perfect...Thank you so much for your help!!!

I'll let you know how it turns out...

Thanks again!!!

 

anyone got a HOW TO for the ceiling handle lights ?

 

my handle lights were a pain in the **** to do. working off and on, it took me a month to do. they sit IN the handle, and the handle is fully functional. you can fit your hand behind it and everything.

 

I got mine at SVC.com. They were 4.99 for 2 12" tubes.
http://www.svc.com/logisys-12ccfl.html

I "installed" mine a year ago. I have the powere fomming from the back of the car from my amp. They turn on with the radio turns on. I have the tubes under the seat slid throught the seat cover straps. I was able to get a spare factory flog light switch and have the amp/Light hooked up to it. So i can turn off the lights with the flick of a switch.