Rear Hatch Sound Insulation
#1
Rear Hatch Sound Insulation
I have an 800W 2CH Nitro AMP bridged into a single 12" Kicker woofer and a ported sub enclosure. I also have a 900W 4 CH Punch Black Maxx amp powering my 6 1/2" Pioneer component speakers and rear stock speakers. With that being said, needless to say I have alot of sound in my box. I can turn my system up to say about 22-25 db and the rear windows practically vibrate out of the damn car. I have added dynomat to the inside of the rear hatch and to the license plate. I want to know is there anything else I can do to cut down on the rattles so that I can harness the full potential of my system?
#4
When you stand out side of the car with the volume up, certain bass frequencies actually cause the glass to vibrate. I think I just may try to add more insulation to the rear. Maybe I can line the hatch with auralex (you know the stuff you see in a sound booth at a recording studio). I'll try it and if it works, I'll let you all know.
#6
Originally Posted by toneeseexb
When you stand out side of the car with the volume up, certain bass frequencies actually cause the glass to vibrate. I think I just may try to add more insulation to the rear. Maybe I can line the hatch with auralex (you know the stuff you see in a sound booth at a recording studio). I'll try it and if it works, I'll let you all know.
#8
I guess there's no real way to completely get rid of the rattle. As for the rear wiper blade, I actually figured out a way to dyno-mat it. They have this sound deadening material in the car stereo section at Walmart. It's a little thinner then dyno mat. Anyway, I just applied a strip on the inside of the wiper blade housing, where the blade rest and the rattling is now gone. I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up have had to re-enforce, and double pain there windows to keep them from literally blowing out of the the fixture.
#9
Here is what I am planning to do to my car:
1:Remove rear wiper
2: Use non functional lock cylinder to fill hole
3: Apply rain-ex liberally to back window
4: Apply several layers of sound deadening to inside of hatch
5: Fill entire hatch with expanding foam
6: replace flimsy paperboard cover over hatch with 1/4" wood of some sort carpeted and bolted or screwed into existing holes.
May be a bit excessive and may require upgrading of gas struts to hold it up, but It should really stop the possibility of a majority of rattles from back there.
1:Remove rear wiper
2: Use non functional lock cylinder to fill hole
3: Apply rain-ex liberally to back window
4: Apply several layers of sound deadening to inside of hatch
5: Fill entire hatch with expanding foam
6: replace flimsy paperboard cover over hatch with 1/4" wood of some sort carpeted and bolted or screwed into existing holes.
May be a bit excessive and may require upgrading of gas struts to hold it up, but It should really stop the possibility of a majority of rattles from back there.
#10
Originally Posted by toneeseexb
I guess there's no real way to completely get rid of the rattle. As for the rear wiper blade, I actually figured out a way to dyno-mat it. They have this sound deadening material in the car stereo section at Walmart. It's a little thinner then dyno mat. Anyway, I just applied a strip on the inside of the wiper blade housing, where the blade rest and the rattling is now gone. I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up have had to re-enforce, and double pain there windows to keep them from literally blowing out of the the fixture.
#11
I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up
#13
what kind of charging system do you have to run 2000w?
#14
^^ you DO need the upgrades..... there's no way for a stock alternator and battery to put out enough amperage for an amp to be able to push 2000w
at 80%efficiency and 12volts, a 2000 watt amp will draw 208amperes.... that's way more than a stock electrical system could hope to push!!!
at 80%efficiency and 12volts, a 2000 watt amp will draw 208amperes.... that's way more than a stock electrical system could hope to push!!!
#15
Since you already dynamatted, I would try to remove the wiper to see if it is quieter (than your modded one) as well as put weatherstripping on the back of the license plate. Also I used weatherstripping tape on the inside of where the floor panels rest as they were vibrating (plastic on plastic)... expanding foam may also help to keep the carpeted panel on the hatch from flapping, I might try that.
#16
Originally Posted by Boxer_Rebellion
Since you already dynamatted, I would try to remove the wiper to see if it is quieter (than your modded one) as well as put weatherstripping on the back of the license plate. Also I used weatherstripping tape on the inside of where the floor panels rest as they were vibrating (plastic on plastic)... expanding foam may also help to keep the carpeted panel on the hatch from flapping, I might try that.
#18
The cheapest easiest fix for most, if not all of the rear hatch noise is to fill it with home insulation, the pink stuff. I stuffed mine and it's dead quiet except for the wiper because it still jumps off the glass.
#19
Originally Posted by chadfo
The cheapest easiest fix for most, if not all of the rear hatch noise is to fill it with home insulation, the pink stuff. I stuffed mine and it's dead quiet except for the wiper because it still jumps off the glass.
The trunk area I think would be a great area to use this though. In fact I think I might just have to run and pick up some pink panther today
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