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Rear Hatch Sound Insulation

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Old 03-21-2006 | 04:41 AM
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Default Rear Hatch Sound Insulation

I have an 800W 2CH Nitro AMP bridged into a single 12" Kicker woofer and a ported sub enclosure. I also have a 900W 4 CH Punch Black Maxx amp powering my 6 1/2" Pioneer component speakers and rear stock speakers. With that being said, needless to say I have alot of sound in my box. I can turn my system up to say about 22-25 db and the rear windows practically vibrate out of the damn car. I have added dynomat to the inside of the rear hatch and to the license plate. I want to know is there anything else I can do to cut down on the rattles so that I can harness the full potential of my system?
Old 03-21-2006 | 03:52 PM
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ummm.....fill all the panels with concrete?? aside from more sound deadening material, that's all i know
Old 03-21-2006 | 04:32 PM
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Is it your window or is it the license plat rattiling, my license plate made the worst sound until i sound deadened it.
Old 03-21-2006 | 05:16 PM
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When you stand out side of the car with the volume up, certain bass frequencies actually cause the glass to vibrate. I think I just may try to add more insulation to the rear. Maybe I can line the hatch with auralex (you know the stuff you see in a sound booth at a recording studio). I'll try it and if it works, I'll let you all know.
Old 03-21-2006 | 05:19 PM
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Yes please let us know if that works, atleast you dont have a sunroof to blow out of the roof. But good luck to you.
Old 03-21-2006 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by toneeseexb
When you stand out side of the car with the volume up, certain bass frequencies actually cause the glass to vibrate. I think I just may try to add more insulation to the rear. Maybe I can line the hatch with auralex (you know the stuff you see in a sound booth at a recording studio). I'll try it and if it works, I'll let you all know.
that stuff is just acoustical absorbtion foam.... you want vibration resistance A.K.A added weight.... the sound deadening material (dynamat) adds weight to whatever panel to change the resonant frequency which keeps it from vibrating as much
Old 03-21-2006 | 05:34 PM
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I put Dynamat everywhere and still have outside rattles. I am going to have to shave the rear wiper as it also making some noise.
Old 03-21-2006 | 06:47 PM
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I guess there's no real way to completely get rid of the rattle. As for the rear wiper blade, I actually figured out a way to dyno-mat it. They have this sound deadening material in the car stereo section at Walmart. It's a little thinner then dyno mat. Anyway, I just applied a strip on the inside of the wiper blade housing, where the blade rest and the rattling is now gone. I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up have had to re-enforce, and double pain there windows to keep them from literally blowing out of the the fixture.
Old 03-21-2006 | 07:01 PM
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Here is what I am planning to do to my car:

1:Remove rear wiper
2: Use non functional lock cylinder to fill hole
3: Apply rain-ex liberally to back window
4: Apply several layers of sound deadening to inside of hatch
5: Fill entire hatch with expanding foam
6: replace flimsy paperboard cover over hatch with 1/4" wood of some sort carpeted and bolted or screwed into existing holes.

May be a bit excessive and may require upgrading of gas struts to hold it up, but It should really stop the possibility of a majority of rattles from back there.
Old 03-21-2006 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by toneeseexb
I guess there's no real way to completely get rid of the rattle. As for the rear wiper blade, I actually figured out a way to dyno-mat it. They have this sound deadening material in the car stereo section at Walmart. It's a little thinner then dyno mat. Anyway, I just applied a strip on the inside of the wiper blade housing, where the blade rest and the rattling is now gone. I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up have had to re-enforce, and double pain there windows to keep them from literally blowing out of the the fixture.
Many of them actually do fill the body cavities with concrete and use bullet-proof 1 1/2" plexi to replace the windows...
Old 03-21-2006 | 07:46 PM
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I heard that those cats with super systems in their cars, I'm talking 25,000W and up
25,000W and up...now that's what I'm talkin about. I have only around 2000W and it is way loud so I can't even imagine 25,000 or more.
Old 03-21-2006 | 07:49 PM
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^^ what kind of charging system do you have to run 2000w?
Old 03-21-2006 | 09:04 PM
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what kind of charging system do you have to run 2000w?
I have a Optima battery, farad cap. & a high output Stinger alt. on order. I really don't need all of the upgrades but I would rather be safe than sorry.
Old 03-21-2006 | 09:14 PM
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^^ you DO need the upgrades..... there's no way for a stock alternator and battery to put out enough amperage for an amp to be able to push 2000w

at 80%efficiency and 12volts, a 2000 watt amp will draw 208amperes.... that's way more than a stock electrical system could hope to push!!!
Old 03-21-2006 | 09:15 PM
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Since you already dynamatted, I would try to remove the wiper to see if it is quieter (than your modded one) as well as put weatherstripping on the back of the license plate. Also I used weatherstripping tape on the inside of where the floor panels rest as they were vibrating (plastic on plastic)... expanding foam may also help to keep the carpeted panel on the hatch from flapping, I might try that.
Old 03-21-2006 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Boxer_Rebellion
Since you already dynamatted, I would try to remove the wiper to see if it is quieter (than your modded one) as well as put weatherstripping on the back of the license plate. Also I used weatherstripping tape on the inside of where the floor panels rest as they were vibrating (plastic on plastic)... expanding foam may also help to keep the carpeted panel on the hatch from flapping, I might try that.
Yeah I have already treated the license plate with dynomating material...definantly helped. Anyone know where I can find the expanding foam?
Old 03-22-2006 | 01:08 AM
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can get small cans at hardware stores.. .home depot, lowes, ace...etc.... not sure how many cans you'd need to fill the hatch tho
Old 03-22-2006 | 01:50 AM
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The cheapest easiest fix for most, if not all of the rear hatch noise is to fill it with home insulation, the pink stuff. I stuffed mine and it's dead quiet except for the wiper because it still jumps off the glass.
Old 03-22-2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by chadfo
The cheapest easiest fix for most, if not all of the rear hatch noise is to fill it with home insulation, the pink stuff. I stuffed mine and it's dead quiet except for the wiper because it still jumps off the glass.
I second that. I used it in my door panel just to see how it would sound and it was great. However I took it out because I was concerned about dampness and water getting in from the window.

The trunk area I think would be a great area to use this though. In fact I think I might just have to run and pick up some pink panther today
Old 03-23-2006 | 01:43 AM
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be careful with the expanding foam if you decide to go that route...it should definitely help, but it could easily flex your panels if you overdo it.
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