tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

I want to get this thread geared towards someone looking to get rid of road noise without spending a lot of money, but spending enough to make a difference. I don't want to tear the interior all out, spend hours installing , and end up disappointed.

Is the roof worth spending the extra cash on?

What places are commonly over looked?

I was planning on using edead. I notice that there are different thicknesses. What thickness should I use and how much?

TypeX

I'm on iPhone or I'd search
Some guy here did the whole interior gutting
Exactly what u r looking fir

Skuff_Box

I know that people have done the trunk with Dynomat and such items and have gotten good results. I think the eDead thread had some things on sound deadening.

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I already know about the gutting the box thread, but its kind of out of date. Like the products used. What they sell now is a different mil than whats listed. Plus I posted in it and no response.

littleball11101

i did the trunk with 2 cans of spray on 3m rubberized spray with deadner(6$ autozone) helped more then i thought it would actully.. great stuff, didn't even have to take out the backseats to.

spr0k3t

The areas that do the most benefits are as follows:

Interior rear wheel wells
Trunk floor (more so if you have aftermarket exhaust)
Hatch
Front wheel wells
Front doors
Firewall
Backdoors
Floor
Roof (unless you don't mind the sound of rain, also cuts down on the wind noise)

This is fairly close to what I have experienced. I've got about 120 sq ft of hushmat in my box not to mention closed cell foam covering the critical parts and floor area.

Now then, if you are looking to spend very little with decent results and not a lot of tear down... there are a few areas I'd like to recommend:

1: Peel & Seal - This is very cheap and can be found with the gutters at your local lowes. A single roll can be purchased for about $15 which is 10" wide by I think 50 feet. It's cheap, and it works.

2: Focus on the important areas first. Pull out the simple stuff and go to town. You can stuff the hatch with polyfil and do multiple layers of peel & seal in the trunk area. That would be a very cheap upgrade which doesn't involve tearing everything out.

3: Get some undercoat and do up the wheel wells. It won't eliminate the noise, but it will cut it down by quite a bit.

bbszero

iTrader: (6)

Rear hatch and trunk floor make the most difference. start there, and you just may see you can stop there too!

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

I don't mind tearing the interior out. I guess I should have mentioned what I was planning to do.

This is what I was planning:
1.Hatch
2.Floor
3.Doors
Maybe roof

I just don't know how many layers in what areas.

As for budget. I would like to keep it below $250. Is that's over kill? I would like to do it for less, but if that get me good results. Great.

I also notice in some threads that the floor was and wasn't completely covered. Is this an area that I can cut some of my cost down or is it better to just do it all while its out?

By critical parts. Do you mean doors and hatch? So you have about 120 sq ft in those areas?

I'm really leaning towards the edead. I've bought from ED and have good customer service form them. The edead seems like a good cost effective product.

spr0k3t

That will give you the best possible deadening without going too far. The hatch and trunk are in the top 3 with the interior wheel wells being the biggest difference.

I did every exposed piece of the floor in my box. I even pulled up some of the metal bracing and covered under the impossible to reach areas. I've heard of others only covering the floor pans and the trunk bypassing anything under the seats and still getting decent results.

The critical parts got a layer of closed cell foam. I may have used about 30-40 feet of that stuff. I covered the trunk floor, the hatch, the wheel wells, and the front doors. Edead is good stuff. It's a great product for the price. You should be able to keep the deadening under $250 easily if you do not have plans on doing the roof.

The roof is the very last item to touch. The cost of doing it for the benefits you get do not amount to much. If you are going to do stereo comps, there's no question behind doing the roof as it will increase your overall SPL.

burstaneurysm

I gotta do this at some point.

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

What mil should I use? Is it necessary to cover the plastic door panels, too?

RichTc

Just saw this post as I am planning on putting sound deadener in my Tc soon.

The following link has some good information regarding types

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

spr0k3t

While that is a good link RichTc, the data is very old. I know this as Hushmat has been around for more than five years and they aren't even on the list.

As for mils thickness, I would use at least 40-60mils to keep it cheap enough. If you are using something like Peel&Seal, do two layers at least to give you 54mils thickness.

For the plastic, you don't have to cover the back of that if you do not want to. You can get away with just hitting the metal parts with the butyl/asphalt based deadener. After that, cover the doors with a closed cell foam. You can get some very cheap closed cell foam from a hardware store in the flooring department... it's used as a water seal more than a sound deadener, but the same properties apply.

RichTc

I just looked and your right, that article is pretty old. Maybe you can help me out then. I was planning on using Raamat BXT, would you suggest against that?

I read that you suggested edead? Which one would you suggest. Raammat quoted my for $200 for two rolls (approximately $125 square feet). Would i do better with edead?

Thanks for the help.

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

Edead would be $125 for 125 sq ft if you use the 40-45 mil.

How does the closed cell foam attach to the doors?

spr0k3t

What I would recommend... stick with any type of sound deadening which is primarily based on Butyl. That will give you the best results with little efforts for installation (no heat gun required).

I've worked with Damplifier, Hushmat, Peel&Seal, and Dynamat. The only one I stuck with was Hushmat primarily due to the price I could purchase it at (dealer cost). The Hushmat I use is 80mils thick and 4mils on the foil... it's on par with Damplifier Pro. I don't like Dynamat as you can get much more for a better price almost anywhere else. Peel&Seal is super cheap, but so is the quality of it. If you are on a serious budget though, you can't beat it.

I've never worked with Raamat BXT60, however it would definitely work well.

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

Here's what I plan on ordering.

All 4 doors:
24 sq ft of edead 80 (80mil)
24 sq ft of edead 45 (45mil)

Floor:
60 sq ft of edead 45

Hatch:
40 sq ft of edead 80

That puts me at $212.

mxyx

Good reading here:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

and here:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...2-sq-foot.html[/table][/code]

spr0k3t

It's old-hat info.

Fixed Link: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...2-sq-foot.html

tCscotty

iTrader: (1)

The edead came in and half the interior is out!

Came home stressed out from work and decided to start on taking the interior out. Was going to wait and do it all at once, but working on the box is such a good stress reliever.