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System help needed

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Old 06-25-2010, 12:15 PM
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Default System help needed

I have a 2005 Scion Xb. I was given a couple of nice older amps from a friend. I would like to add on to them with some nice speakers a sub, head unit etc. but I don't know what would be good to go for.

I would like ipod compatibility for my head unit and want to run only (1) mono 10" sub in the back. I DO NOT want to cut into my doors or any other part of my interior to do the installation and do not require sound loud enough to shake cars around me! Just nice, clean sound with good bass for myself and my passengers !

The amps I was given are the following :

Zapco Z100C2-SL
Zapco Z400C4-SL

I believe someone once helped me out with an entire diagram of what speakers and how they would be installed and I "think" I remember them saying something about some nice components in the doors and the sub in the rear but I don't remember if that was it for sure and how it was run.

Any help / thoughts / ideas would be GREATLY appreciated !!
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:35 PM
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This headunit: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X994

These components: CDT CL-61A or these Cadence CWM-6

This sub: Image Dynamic ID10DV2 V.3

What's your price range? What's the specs on the amps? I found them for the Z100C2-SL... it's tiny... 25w x 2 @ 4 ohm, but not for the 4 channel. Those were some awesome amps back in the day.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:34 PM
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if your going to use a kenwood headunit, use kenwood components and a kenwood sub

atleast attempt to keep simular brands


if not, get CEA compliant brands like JL Audio, Alpine, Pioneer, or Kicker
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:21 PM
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Unless you're one of those people that have to have things match, there's no need for all components to be the same brand. There are no benefits to it other than appearance.

What the CEA-2006 is:
"Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers." This "voluntary" standard advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio. Using 14.4 volts, RMS watts are measured into a 4-ohm impedance load at 1 percent Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) plus noise, at a frequency range (for general purpose amplifiers) of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. Signal-to-Noise ratio is measured in weighted absolute decibels (dBA) at a reference of 1 watt into 4 ohms. This applies to both external amplifiers and the amplifiers within in-dash receivers."
It's nice because an amp should produce what it's rated at. Cheap companies will advertise an amp at "1000 watts RMS" but that may be at an ungodly high distortion level (sometimes the measurement is right before failure) and you will never actually get that power out of the amp.

If you plan on using the amps you have and not buying any, than it isn't much of something to look for. Although, the companies that are CEA compliant tend to be the better brands. At least mainstream brands, that is. It's hard to say "buy X brand" anymore because everyone has started making entry level stuff that is only marginally better than the cheap brands.

If you want a quality, more basic and stock looking head unit then this one would be great: Eclipse CD1200 It has an OEM look too it - any would be thief would probably not notice it.

There's a lot of good stuff out there. Take your time, do your research, decide how much you want to spend and buy what fits your needs and budget.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by monoxide101
Unless you're one of those people that have to have things match, there's no need for all components to be the same brand. There are no benefits to it other than appearance.
^^Agreed 100%!

Those Zapcos are great amps! Cool friend!

There are a lot of choices available. Depends on budget and musical tastes. The ID subs are a great choice. Hybrid Audio makes some great components...Clarus. Check the Elemental Designs site (they are a sponsor here) for some solid equipment at direct to you/no middleman prices. Put the 6-1/2" in the doors (you will need MDF spacers) and mount the tweeters in the stock location in the dash.

I have paper templates for the MDF spacers if you need them. Here's a link to my DIY done years ago.

Check my sig for my setup...it rocks! G/L!

Robert
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by monoxide101
...there's no need for all components to be the same brand. There are no benefits to it other than appearance.
^^^ Quote for epic win.

Personally speaking, I don't know one brand that ranks of epic quality in all areas.
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Olesen_Custom_Automotive
if your going to use a kenwood headunit, use kenwood components and a kenwood sub

atleast attempt to keep simular brands
Why?
I have a Kenwood DNX9140 (Awesome HU) but I would never even consider Kenwood components/subs etc.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by lil_will
Why?
I have a Kenwood DNX9140 (Awesome HU) but I would never even consider Kenwood components/subs etc.
agreed! i love mix and matching audio equipment. in my tC before i sold it i had ARC audio amps, Focal components (front and rear), RE XXX and SX subs, and a avic d3. i was going to get the kenwood but thats when i decided i wanted to sell my car
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:28 AM
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I still have my XXX sitting in the garage. Best sub I have ever owned, hands down!
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:37 AM
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Nice to see some RE love. I have a set of RE 10s (entry level line) from when they still went by Resonant Engineering, not sure what year they started using just RE Audio. I've been tempted to throw them in the box for a change from the Elemental Designs 9kv.2s for a while. I haven't been overly impressed with the performance of the eD subs (they hit slightly harder than the single ID8V.3-D2 they replaced), BUT it could be due to the installation... they share a common space in my first attempt at fiberglass. I'm currently running an Eclipse CD4000 HU, Alpine PDX-4.150 amp, CDT 61A comps with the UpStage kit and a pair of eD 9kv.2 subs. I'm wanting to replace the HU with something that has iPhone support.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by lil_will
Why?
I have a Kenwood DNX9140 (Awesome HU) but I would never even consider Kenwood components/subs etc.
i never said kenwood had good subs/components


i said he should TRY to keep matching components.


if anyone knows how to mix and match its me. I've got Alpine Type-S 6.5 components, and two sets of 4" Rockford Fosgate Power T1's all on my dash, then all connected to a pioneer headunit. THEN a pair of 10" Eclipse 6010

but for aesthetic reasons, it bothers the hell out of me that the 6.5" speaker grille doesnt match my rockford grille, that is inches away

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Old 06-26-2010, 04:32 AM
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Did you make those kicks yourself? Looks nice, I've wanted to do a pair and go 3-way active in the front. I understand what you mean there, that's why I like product lines that don't do gaudy speaker covers or amps that look like spaceships.

Last edited by monoxide101; 06-26-2010 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 06-26-2010, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Olesen_Custom_Automotive
i never said kenwood had good subs/components

i said he should TRY to keep matching components.
I was just throwing my setup out there as an example. I just simply disagreed with your statement.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by lil_will
I was just throwing my setup out there as an example. I just simply disagreed with your statement.
fair enough
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:46 PM
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Depends on budget and musical tastes
. I'd say $300 for components and sub. $300 max. for head unit. I'd prefer a double din sized unit. As for musical tastes. Mainly rock. modern, metal, hair bands, even classic. I also enjoy techno and reggae.

Put the 6-1/2" in the doors (you will need MDF spacers) and mount the tweeters in the stock location in the dash.
Do I HAVE to use the spacers ?? I really didn't want to cut up my car. Will I have to make the spacers or can I buy them ?

Last edited by spongebox125; 06-27-2010 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:39 AM
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so what are my choices for sub enclosures that don't take up a ton of room or make me ditch my spare tire ?
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:46 PM
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depends on sub and depends on how much bass you want
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:59 PM
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well I want good bass but not the window rattling stuff. only want a mono 10 really or maybe a 12.

I dont want to give up alot of cargo space and dont want to give up my spare tire.

audioformz makes a nice enclosure for the RH cargo area but it's way too expensive for my budget.
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by spr0k3t
^^^ Quote for epic win.

Personally speaking, I don't know one brand that ranks of epic quality in all areas.

Agree on both statements!!!

My next setup will be keenwood flip up dvd,infinity all the way around,jl audio w6/7 10 sub with 2 soundstream amp's.
For the op it really depends on your budget and needs as stated,You said you want this and that out of a head unit so what i would do is check out www.crutchfield.com and put in what you want and it will show you all the head units then you can go to a store to see it up close.As for the speakers you can allways just put in a head unit and sub and just run the stocks for now but id def swap them out for aftermarket ones.
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by spongebox125
Do I HAVE to use the spacers ?? I really didn't want to cut up my car. Will I have to make the spacers or can I buy them ?
^^Unless the new comps you get are shallow mount. Most aftermarket (higher performance) drivers are going to be deeper than the wimpy stock drivers.

Some people were cutting the stock speaker cones out of the plastic rim w/o drilling them out and just screwing the new speakers onto the plastic.

Check my install link in the last reply I made. All the mods in my DIY are non destructive and can be returned to stock.The stock speakers are riveted in. At best, you will have to drill the rivets out...its EZ. I have paper templates for the MDF spacers and tweeter mounts in the dash. LMK if you want me to send you some.

Pick and choose what works best for you...mix and match...FTW!

Robert

Last edited by tanakasan; 06-29-2010 at 06:02 AM.
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